马塞多尼奥·阿尔卡拉剧院 - 景点攻略
Macedonio Alcalá Theater
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马塞多尼奥·阿尔卡拉剧院：瓦哈卡老城里的百年珠宝盒
马塞多尼奥·阿尔卡拉剧院（Teatro Macedonio Alcalá）就在瓦哈卡老城 Independencia 大道 900 号，距离中心广场 Zócalo 只隔两个街区，步行大约 3 分钟。这座1909年9月5日启用的法式剧院，观众厅能坐将近1300人，至今仍是瓦哈卡交响乐团的主场。每天中午通常有一场西班牙语导览，想进去看个究竟，不用非得等到晚上有演出。
先弄清楚：这栋楼到底怎么看
建筑本身：马蹄形观众厅和绿色穹顶
剧院1903年动工，由工程师鲁道夫·弗朗科主持，1909年8月完工。外观最显眼的是那个绿色穹顶，远远就能认出来。走进去，观众厅是马蹄形的，三层包厢沿着弧线排开，舞台上方还留着第一代赞助人的圆形浮雕。室内走的是路易十五风格，壁画、镀金包厢、大理石楼梯，一样不少。当地人说它像“珠宝盒”，不夸张——灯光一开，金色装饰反光，整个厅堂确实有种被包起来的感觉。
名字的来历：从赌场到国家剧院
这栋楼最早叫“剧院赌场 Luis Mier y Terán”，是瓦哈卡富裕家庭社交看演出的地方。后来改过几次名，最终以瓦哈卡作曲家马塞多尼奥·阿尔卡拉命名，他写的华尔兹《Dios Nunca Muere》在本地几乎人人会哼。首演剧目是《阿依达》。中间一度改放电影，如今又回到戏剧、歌剧、舞蹈和音乐会的老本行。
怎么进去：导览、演出和免费场次
中午的导览团
大多数游客靠两种方式进剧院：跟中午的导览团，或者买票看演出。导览通常每天中午开始，西班牙语讲解，时长不算长，但能把建筑细节和历史串一遍。想听英语讲解，可以去同一栋楼里的旅游局办公室问，有时候能约到。导览会带你看观众厅、门厅，天气好的话还能上屋顶，从上面看瓦哈卡老城和周围的山脊线。
演出票：从免费到收费都有
剧院没有固定的“参观门票”，想自己逛一圈，得靠演出票或者导览。演出类型很杂：歌剧、芭蕾、古典音乐会、世界舞蹈、艺术电影放映都有。票价浮动大，免费场次不少——瓦哈卡州交响乐团的某些音乐会就是免票入场，先到先坐。收费场次从几十比索到几百比索不等。节目单贴在入口处，也可以查剧院的 Facebook 主页，上面会更新排期。
开放时间和联系
剧院办公室周一至周五 9:00 到 20:00 办公，但建筑本身只在有活动或导览时开放。电话 +52 951 516 8292，打过去问当天有没有导览最直接。地址再确认一遍：Av. de la Independencia 900, esquina con Armenta y López, Col. Oaxaca Centro, C.P. 68000。
什么时候去、穿什么、拍什么
最佳时间：避开午后暴晒
瓦哈卡旱季（11月到次年4月）白天日照强，中午导览虽然时间合适，但路上走起来晒。建议提前十分钟到，先在门口阴凉处等。雨季（5月到10月）下午常有阵雨，带把折叠伞不碍事。周末晚上有演出时，老城步行街 Calle Macedonio Alcalá 人气最旺，剧院门口也是拍夜景的好位置。
着装和拍照规矩
看演出不用穿正装，瓦哈卡本地观众偏休闲，但短裤拖鞋进歌剧厅还是不太合适。导览期间可以拍照，别开闪光灯，别碰壁画和包厢栏杆。演出期间通常禁止摄影，具体看当天规定。剧院里没有严格的安检流程，但大包最好寄存或留在住处。
周边怎么串线路
剧院本身逛完加上导览，大约 40 分钟到 1 小时。出门左转沿 Independencia 走两分钟就是 Zócalo 中心广场；再往北三个街区是 Santo Domingo 教堂和瓦哈卡文化博物馆，那家博物馆值得单独留两小时。把剧院排在上午导览、中午吃饭、下午逛博物馆的节奏里，一天下来不赶。
常见问题
没有演出的时候能进去参观吗？
可以，但只能跟导览团。通常每天中午有一场西班牙语导览，想约英语导览得去同一栋楼里的旅游局办公室问。自己推门进去逛是不行的，门口工作人员会拦。
剧院有固定门票价格吗？
没有统一的参观门票。导览通常免费或收象征性费用，演出票从免费到几百比索不等。瓦哈卡州交响乐团的免费音乐会不少，但座位先到先得，建议提前半小时到。
从 Zócalo 广场走过去要多久？
步行大约 3 分钟，距离两个街区。从 Santo Domingo 教堂过去也只要 5 分钟左右。剧院在 Independencia 大道和 5 de Mayo 街交角，绿色穹顶很好认。
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马塞多尼奥·阿尔卡拉剧院 |用户评价
This is such a cool, old theater in the heart of El Centro, Oaxaca City. I saw a live HD streaming of a NYC Met Opera production (Arabella) that included Spanish subtitles here for $13. It provided four hours of really fantastic and climate-controlled entertainment. There is a variety of events here and going to an event here is the only way to see the theater. There were a lot of really lovely expats at the opera streaming. The theater is around 115 years old!
A Complete Disaster of an Event I attended the Harry Potter Big Band concert at Teatro Macedonio Alcalá, and it was one of the most miserable experiences I’ve ever paid for. The event was advertised as an orchestra performing music synced to video clips from the films — but when they projected the clips, it became immediately clear they had no internet connection and had not downloaded the videos beforehand. As a result, every clip (some 2–20 minutes long) would only play 5 seconds, then freeze and restart. Over. And over. And over. All night. It was like listening to a chalkboard being scratched on repeat. I paid for premium box seats expecting a professional experience, but what I got felt like an elementary school talent show — the kind you only sit through because your own child is performing. After an hour of this, there was an intermission, and I hoped they would fix the problem. They didn’t. The second half was just more random 5-second clips looping endlessly, completely out of sync with the music. I eventually walked out. It was a total frustration, a waste of time, and absolutely not worth the money. This was an avoidable disaster that could have been fixed simply by testing the equipment or downloading the videos beforehand.
Must have been grand at some point - it's still nice but slowly deteriorating. The lights are broken, the doors from the balcony to the passage remain open during the performance. What is nice is that people still come whenever there's a performance planned.
Must See This Teatro, corner of Independencia and 5 de Mayo Almost every day at noon, there’s a tour in Spanish, and enquire at the Tourist Office in the same building for tours in English. Most unexpected, beautiful French architecture building (1903), constructed originally as a casino. The guide provided great detail about the architecture, time period, people involved, and showed us all over the building, including the rooftop for an incredible panoramic view of Oaxaca and the surrounding mountains. Only an hour. Don’t miss it. There’s also an ice cream place across the street where you can eat.
I missed the opportunity to see a dance performace, but that did not stop me from entering the building to admire the architecture. The small group tour satisfied my senses. Vhuntermassage LLC
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