十一月二十日市场 - 景点攻略
20 de Noviembre Market
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十一月二十日市场：瓦哈卡人的烟火食堂
从瓦哈卡市中心索卡洛广场往南走两个街区，闻到炭火烟熏味、听见剁肉声和玉米饼拍打声时，十一月二十日市场（Mercado 20 de Noviembre）就到了。它占地不算大，从 6 点开门做早市，到晚上 7 点左右收摊，一天里挤满了本地厨师、家庭主妇和专程来吃的游客。和隔壁的贝尼托·华雷斯市场相比，这里更偏“吃”——熟食摊、肉铺、巧克力摊混在一起，人均 100 墨西哥比索上下就能吃一顿实打实的午饭。
市场布局：先弄清怎么逛，再决定吃什么
十一月二十日市场位于 Miguel Cabrera 街和 20 de Noviembre 街之间，中心城区内，从索卡洛广场步行约 4 分钟。整座市场是带顶棚的封闭空间，摊位按街区排列，通道不宽，两个人并排走就有点挤。第一次来容易绕晕，最好先记住三条主线。
烟熏走廊：市场最核心的部分
市场里人气最旺的区域叫 Pasillo de Humo，直译是“烟熏走廊”。走进这段通道，白烟直接从炭火炉子上腾起来，烤牛肉的脂肪滴在木炭上滋滋作响。市场里半数左右的熟食摊都集中在周围。摊前通常摆着新鲜生肉，看中哪块指给摊主，称重后现烤，烤好配洋葱、香菜、青柠和玉米饼端上来。
第一次点单，认准三样东西：tasajo（薄盐渍牛肉片）、cecina（腌制猪肉薄片）和 chorizo（瓦哈卡式辣香肠），可以单点也可以拼盘。烤肉按公斤计价，一份约 150-200 比索，够两个人配饼吃。
熟食摊与早餐档
烟熏走廊外围散落着不少 fonda（家庭式熟食摊），卖 mole negro（黑鼹鼠酱）、tlayuda（大号脆玉米饼）和 caldo de pollo（鸡汤）。早上 6 点到 8 点这段时间，本地人站在摊前吃早餐，摊主忙得没空招呼游客，但东西最新鲜——玉米饼是刚压出来的，巧克力是刚打好的。
肉铺、蔬菜与手工艺品
市场靠内侧的几条通道还保留着传统菜市场的功能：肉铺挂整扇猪肉，菜摊上堆着瓦哈卡本地辣椒和香草，角落里有卖手工陶器和瓦拉切草编鞋的摊位。这里的商品价格面向本地人，比旅游商店便宜不少。
什么时候去：避开人潮的时段选择
市场 6 点开门，7 点前几乎全是本地人，游客极少。8 点到 10 点，早餐高峰过去，摊位还热着，通道宽敞好走。11 点之后游客团陆续进来，午市一直持续到下午 2、3 点。周末和节假日的中午最挤，推婴儿车基本进不去。
如果只想吃顿烤肉又不想挤，建议工作日上午 10 点前到。想拍烟熏走廊的气氛，就赶 7 点左右的早市，那时摊主刚开火，市场里烟雾最浓，光线也柔和。
点单与实用细节
市场里绝大多数摊位只收现金，刷卡机很少见。进门先找 ATM 取够比索，附近银行网点的汇率比机场好。点单不用看菜单——很多摊位没有菜单，直接指摊上的食材问价就行，摊主习惯游客好奇，会耐心解释。
卫生方面，熟食摊的出品总体新鲜，但肠胃敏感的人先从烤肉类和玉米饼类入手，避开提前做好摆在外面的凉菜。市场通道窄，推轮椅或婴儿车不太方便，门口台阶多，最好轻装步行前往。
常见问题
十一月二十日市场需要门票或预约吗？
不需要。市场免费进入，开放时间大致为每天 7:00 到 19:00，部分熟食摊 6 点就开始营业。只有跟团参加市场美食导览才需要提前预订，2.5 小时左右的导览团费用约 334 元人民币。
从索卡洛广场怎么走过去？
从索卡洛广场沿 Calle Macedonio Alcalá 往南走，到 Calle Valdivieso 右转，步行约 4 到 5 分钟即可看到市场入口。市场周边停车位少、街道拥挤，步行是最省事的方式。
在市场吃一顿大概要多少钱？
在烟熏走廊点一份烤肉配玉米饼和饮料，人均约 100 到 150 比索；只吃塔可或小份熟食，50 到 80 比索就够。市场里买 mole 酱或巧克力带走，价格也比专门店便宜。
什么季节去瓦哈卡最合适？
10 月到次年 4 月是旱季，气温 18 到 28 摄氏度，适合逛市场。11 月初亡灵节期间市场最热闹但人也最多；6 月进入雨季，上午天气通常晴好，市场人少，逛起来更从容。
十一月二十日市场 |热门行程
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十一月二十日市场 |用户评价
We ate dinner in the market! Lots of traditional Oaxacan food in this market and nice vendors, bright colors and the smell of fresh bread :)
It’s a great market with lots of different options for mezcal. A guy even gave me a small bottle to try, which was a nice touch. Everyone was friendly, and there are plenty of food options, including chapulines and tlayudas, one of Oaxaca’s most traditional dishes. It’s definitely worth taking the time to visit. There’s so much history in Oaxaca, and the market itself is a great place to experience the local culture and food.
This market is by far the most popular and tourist frequented market in Oaxaca. Although it is for good reason, I think Benito Juárez market is my favorite. This market has much more meat and food products than the others. Although it is shoulder to shoulder people so it’ll be ready for closed quarters.
If you want an authentic Oaxacan food experience, Pasillo del Humo is a must-visit. The concept is simple and delicious: choose your favorite cuts of meat from one of the butcher stalls, and they’ll grill everything over charcoal right in front of you. We ordered 1/4 kilo each of cecina enchilada, tasajo, and chorizo, and every bite was incredible. Once you’ve picked your meat, the butcher assigns you a table in the communal seating area, where your freshly grilled meat is served in a large basket. From there, vendors come by offering an assortment of traditional sides for just 20 pesos each. We chose guacamole, green salsa, grilled onions, and limes. We also bought freshly made handmade corn tortillas, and they truly made the meal. If you’re only used to supermarket tortillas, do yourself a favor and try the real thing—you’ll never look at tortillas the same way again. Building your own tacos with freshly grilled meat, homemade tortillas, and all the flavorful toppings is one of the simplest yet most satisfying meals you’ll have in Oaxaca. A couple of tips: the seating is in a single narrow aisle, so it can get crowded and feel a bit tight during busy hours, especially if you prefer more personal space. They open around 10:00 a.m., and I highly recommend arriving shortly after opening to beat both the crowds and the midday heat. This is one of those places that captures the true flavors and spirit of Oaxaca. I would absolutely come back.
Very authentic. Even though it’s super touristy, it still keeps the Oaxaca Mexican vibe and genuinely makes you feel the local culture. There are many places to eat. Most vendors sell similar dishes, but some stalls are clearly busier than others, which probably says a lot about which ones are better. There are also plenty of mezcal options and small souvenirs if you’re looking to take something home. We had chocolate con leche with bread and memelas, and everything was amazing. Simple, traditional, and full of flavor. The only downside for us was how crowded it gets and how vendors constantly call you over trying to sell something. It can feel a bit overwhelming. Aside from that, the experience was great and absolutely worth visiting if you want a true taste of Oaxaca.
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