孟菲斯狮身人面像(Sphinx of Memphis)坐落在开罗以南约20公里的米特·拉希纳(Mit Rahina)露天博物馆内。这尊重达80吨的巨像长约8米、高约4米,是埃及现存体型第二大的狮身人面像,也是目前已知的古代埃及最大的雪花石雕像。相比于吉萨高地那座饱经风霜的庞然大物,这尊卧在棕榈树荫下的狮身人面像保存得更为完整,面部表情甚至还透着一种跨越千年的宁静与平和。
这尊雕像最让人移不开眼的地方在于它的材质。它由一整块巨大的雪花石(Alabaster,学名方解石)雕刻而成,这种石材在阳光照射下会呈现出一种温润如玉的光泽。当你靠近观察,会发现石头的质地细密,即便经历了三千多年的风沙侵蚀,狮身的肌肉线条和爪子的轮廓依然清晰可辨。这种选材本身就显示了极高的规格,因为在古埃及,雪花石通常用于制作神庙的祭祀器皿或皇室用品,而非大规模的户外建筑。
虽然这尊狮身人面像的具体雕刻年份仍有争议,但根据其面部特征和风格,考古学家普遍认为它出自第18王朝或第19王朝,大约在公元前1700年至公元前1200年之间。有些学者猜测它描绘的是著名的阿蒙霍特普二世(Amenhotep II),也有人认为它可能属于拉美西斯二世(Ramesses II)。这种身份的不确定感反倒增加了一种探秘的乐趣。它在1912年被发现时,长年被掩埋在尼罗河淤泥之下,由于淤泥的保护,它避开了风化和人为破坏,成了古都孟菲斯繁荣景象的最后见证者。
孟菲斯遗址的位置比较尴尬,公共交通几乎没法直接到达。多数游客会选择包车,把孟菲斯、萨卡拉(Saqqara)阶梯金字塔和达舒尔(Dahshur)弯曲金字塔串成一条线。从开罗市区打车过来单程大约需要1小时,如果是包整天车,价格通常在600到900埃镑之间,具体看你砍价的本事。到了米特·拉希纳博物馆门口,司机会在停车场等你。说真的,如果只为了看这尊狮身人面像跑一趟可能有点亏,但加上旁边的拉美西斯二世卧像,这一趟就绝对值回票价了。
目前的成人门票价格是150埃镑,学生凭有效的国际学生证(ISIC)可以享受半价。售票处只接受信用卡或借记卡支付,现在埃及大部分景点都不收现金了,这点一定要记清楚。走进博物馆后,狮身人面像就在院子中央的露天区域,四周没有护栏遮挡,虽然可以近距离拍照,但千万不要试图攀爬或者触摸石料,旁边的安保人员盯着很紧。建议清晨十点前到达,那时候光线柔和,拍出来的雪花石泛着淡黄色,而且能完美避开中午十二点后大规模旅游团的喧嚣。
最直观的区别在于体量和材质。吉萨的狮身人面像长约73米,由石灰岩山体原地雕刻而成,而孟菲斯这一尊长仅8米,采用的是名贵的雪花石。孟菲斯这座保存得更精细,面部轮廓、耳朵和皇冠的细节清晰可见,没有吉萨那一座那么严重的风化剥落感。
通常建议预留45分钟到1小时的时间。核心看点除了院子里的雪花石狮身人面像,还有室内展馆里那尊震撼人心的拉美西斯二世卧像,它的长度超过10米。其他的零散石碑和石柱大约花15分钟就能扫完一遍。
这里属于典型的沙漠气候,由于周围有大量的棕榈林和灌溉渠,体感会比开罗市区稍微潮湿一点点。建议穿透气性好的长袖衣物遮阳,并佩戴墨镜,因为白色的雪花石在烈日下反光很强,盯着看久了眼睛容易累。每年10月到次年4月是黄金季节,气温通常维持在20至25摄氏度左右,非常舒适。
博物馆大门对面有一些小卖部,水和饮料的价格比市区贵一点,但还能接受。如果想吃正餐,建议回到前往萨卡拉的公路上,那里有几家针对游客的庄园式餐厅,人均消费大约在300到500埃镑。说实话,博物馆内部没有餐饮服务,最好自带一瓶水入场。
Akshata panchal Very nice place, please go with a guide who knows the history well. Its a very good experience.
Mohamed Omar This is the largest sphinx able to be carried or moved in Egypt. The material is alabaster stone. The majority of historians believe that it represents the queen hatshepsut, the only female ruled Egypt in ancient Egyptian history.
Josue Polanco Highly recommend checking out the most articulated and most beautiful detail Sphinx in all of Egypt. It was one of the first capitals of the land. This size colossal
Ross Daniels Quite amazing just to sit in front of this Sphinx and think about all the history that is permeated in it and around. The carving is believed to have taken place between 1700 and 1400 BCE, which was during the 18th Dynasty. It is actually strange to think that no one is quite sure as to which pharaoh this was supposed to honour. I bet the pharaoh is a bit annoyed about all this.
S Hetherington Visited Mit Rahina on 11 October 2022. Mit Rahina is included with the Cairo Pass. The sphinx of Memphis is the second largest sphinx ever discovered. The largest sphinx is of course the Great Sphinx on the Giza Plateau. First discovered in 1912 it is also known as the Alabaster or Calcite Sphinx. It's approximate weight is ninety tons. It is believed to have been carved sometime during the 18th Dynasty and it is unique in that it has no carvings or inscriptions on it. For this reason scholars are unsure whom this sphinx was constructed by or made in honour of. Some believe it to be Hatshepsut or Amenhotep II or III.