很多人去埃及只知道吉萨那三座名声显赫的建筑,却不知道开罗往南约40公里的达舒尔沙漠里,藏着更纯粹、更原始的遗迹。红色金字塔(Red Pyramid)作为埃及第三大金字塔,也是人类历史上第一座真正成功的常态金字塔。最让人惊喜的是,在这里你不用像在吉萨那样面对汹涌的推销员,甚至可以独自一人在千年地宫里感受那种绝对的静谧。
这座宏伟的建筑是由第四王朝的法老斯尼夫鲁(Sneferu)下令建造的。其实在它刚刚完工的时候,由于表面覆盖着一层洁白光滑的图拉石灰岩,它在阳光下曾是耀眼的白色。可惜随着时间推移,大部分白色外层石块被当地居民拆走用于修建开罗的房屋,这就露出了里面富含氧化铁的红色石灰岩核心。现在每当黄昏降临,夕阳洒在粗糙的石块表面,整座建筑会呈现出一种沉稳而厚重的锈红色调。
斯尼夫鲁法老在建筑上的追求简直到了执迷不悟的地步,他在红色金字塔之前还建过两座。由于南边的弯曲金字塔在建到一半时出现了结构不稳的问题,建筑师被迫将倾斜角度从54度临时改为43度。到了建造红色金字塔时,工匠们吸取了教训,从地基开始就采用了稳妥的43度倾角。这种谨慎的尝试让红色金字塔拥有了高达105米的最终高度,并成功挺立了超过4500年。如果你从远处看去,会发现它比大金字塔显得更矮胖一些,这正是古埃及建筑师在工程安全与宏伟壮观之间找到的第一个完美平衡点。
说到省钱和体验的性价比,红色金字塔绝对是首选。根据2025年的最新信息,达舒尔景区的成人票价大约为300埃镑,这个价格已经涵盖了红色金字塔和弯曲金字塔的进入许可。相比吉萨大金字塔入内需要额外支付超过1000埃镑的高昂费用,红色金字塔简直是旅行者的福利。这里没有扫码预约或复杂的限额机制,只要买了门票,你就可以顺着陡峭的台阶一路爬进地底深处。建议大家出发前最好在埃及旅游局官网或者现场确认最新价格,因为埃镑汇率波动确实比较大。
由于这里地处偏远,没有任何公共交通可以直接抵达。最推荐的方式是从开罗市区包车或者叫Uber。如果你选择Uber,单程费用通常在400至600埃镑之间,但一定要跟司机商量好等待的时间。因为达舒尔景区非常空旷,一旦司机把你放下就离开,你基本上不可能在荒漠里叫到下一辆车。比较成熟的方案是把红色金字塔、弯曲金字塔和萨卡拉的阶梯金字塔串联在一天,私人包车一整天的费用大概在50到60美元。这样不仅能节省沟通成本,还能有专人带你准确找到沙漠里的售票处。
进入金字塔内部绝对是个体力活。你需要从北侧离地约28米的入口进入,然后在一个高约1.2米、宽约1米的窄道里猫着腰向下爬行大约61米。说真的,这段路对膝盖和腰椎是种考验,狭窄的空间可能会让幽闭恐惧症患者感到不适。通道里虽然安装了木质踏板和扶手,但坡度非常陡。随着你不断深入,外界的光线会彻底消失,取而代之的是有些昏暗的灯光和一种难以名状的陈旧气息。很多人下到一半就开始大汗淋漓,这不是因为热,更多是由于紧张和空气流通不畅造成的生理反应。
好不容易下到通道底部,你会发现里面别有洞天。红色金字塔内部有三个相连的墓室,每个墓室的顶部都采用了精妙的叠涩拱结构,高度将近12米。这种层层叠叠的石块堆砌方式不仅美观,更承载了上方数百万吨岩石的重量。由于这里游客极少,你可以清晰地听到自己的呼吸声在石壁间回荡。墓室内虽然没有华丽的壁画和象形文字,但那种原始的工程力量感反而更让人震撼。要提醒一点,墓室里由于常年封闭,氨气的味道可能比较重,建议戴个口罩或者准备一条围巾。当你终于从幽暗的地宫爬出,重新站在沙漠阳光下的那一刻,那种重见天日的仪式感是任何景点都无法替代的。
目前红色金字塔内部通常允许使用手机拍照,且无需额外付费,但严禁使用闪光灯和三脚架。如果你携带了专业相机或摄像机,可能需要在景区门口额外购买专门的摄影许可,价格约在300埃镑左右。
单纯游览红色金字塔的外观和内部大约需要60至90分钟。由于进入内部的下降通道非常消耗体力,攀爬过程可能占据一半以上的时间,建议根据自己的身体状况预留充裕的休息间隙。
每年10月至次年4月是前往达舒尔的最佳时机,此时白天平均气温在20至25度左右。夏季沙漠温度经常超过40度,且景区内几乎没有任何遮阳设施,长时间暴露在烈日下极易导致中暑或严重晒伤。
如果你对古埃及历史感兴趣,请导游讲解斯尼夫鲁的建筑演变会很有收获。不过对于追求摄影和个人体验的游客来说,不需要导游也能完成游览,因为景区路线简单,最大的乐趣在于独自探索地宫的神秘氛围。
S Hetherington Visited 11 October 2022 Included with the Cairo Pass. Located an hour south east of Giza is the Dahshur Necropolis and home to the Red Pyramid. The site is surprisingly much less frequented by visitors and this gives the site a very favourable feel when there. There are no hawkers, no camels or horses either. There is an army base located to the north and due to this the site was not open to visitors for many years. Thankfully that changed. Beyond the base is the saqqara site. You will also be able to observe the step pyramid of Djoser in the distance. Originally it was covered in a white limestone casing called Tura but these were looted like so many of the other sites of Egyptian antiquity. This left the red limestone blocks visible which gives its name to the pyramid today. This pyramid is the third highest after the two large pyramids on the Giza Plateau. Also this was the first true pyramid built by Sneferu after his attempts of the Bent Pyramid and the Pyramid of Meidum. Scholars believe this pyramid was built between 2575-2563BC. Once at the base there is a short climb up to the entrance to the shaft plunging inside. For those who are short it can be navigated by hunching over and walking. For those who are taller it is better to crawl on all fours backwards down and forwards up, though it can be slow going. It is well worth the adventure to view the gallery inside which is very similar to the Great Pyramid. Once in the gallery there is a wooden staircase to climb that takes you to the secondary chamber. It is not as hot inside as the Giza Pyramids and this is likely due to the low numbers of visitors. For some reason the grey ghosts that gate keep at all sites in Egypt ask you for money at the shaft entrance to do nothing and as we did throughout our visit to Egypt we promptly ignored them.
William THC I came here with my mother in Jan 2024. The bent pyramid is cool and the red pyramid is huge. The Red is the one you can go inside. Be warned, it is a long way down/up to go inside
Bill Lopes Beautiful pyramid, be prepared for steep descent passage going inside and climbing out! If you don’t have a full head of hair, wear a hat to cushion your head from bumping against the low ceiling. I found walking backwards was easier to go down.
Adie Klein This red limestone pyramid, is the first true pyramid built by the pharoahs in the old kingdom. It can be climbed into, however it's quite strenuous but worth it.
Pong Lenis Was absolutely stunning. We went in June so the temperature was 45 degrees Celsius; the heat wants absolutely insane. So please make sure you bring lots of water and make sure you check the temperature. Inside was quite a lovely experience, very well kept and lots of chambers to visit. Make sure you’re in good shape and don’t have a bad back or knees. Otherwise I wouldn’t recommend going too far inside as it is a lot of crouching at times and can be straining. My legs were sore the next day. But it was definitely worth the visit and I would recommend you check it out if you have the chance.