很多人来到塞舌尔的普拉兰岛(Praslin),首要目标通常是那些世界级的海滩,但如果你愿意往岛屿腹地走走,就会发现一片仿佛被时间遗忘的原始丛林。这就是五月谷地自然保护区(Vallée de Mai),一处在1983年就被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录的奇迹之地。这片森林面积大约19.5公顷,规模在世界遗产中算非常袖珍,但它承载的生物多样性却极其惊人,被19世纪的查尔斯·戈登将军形容为真正的伊甸园。这里的海拔介于150米到310米之间,湿润的气候和几千万年的地理隔离,让这里保留了冈瓦纳大陆分裂时期的植被风貌。
踏入五月谷的第一感受是光线的突然变暗。高达三十多米的巨型棕榈树冠层层叠叠,几乎遮蔽了所有阳光,只有星星点点的光斑落在长满青苔的地面上。这种压抑而又宁静的气氛会让你瞬间产生穿越回侏罗纪时代的错觉。这片森林最核心的灵魂是海椰子(Coco de Mer)。这种植物的进化史可以追溯到数千万年前,在全世界范围内,只有塞舌尔的普拉兰岛和邻近的屈里厄斯岛(Curieuse)能看到它们大规模自然生长。海椰子的生长速度极其缓慢,一棵树可能要长二十年才开始结果,而果实完全成熟则需要漫长的七到八年时间。
虽然海椰子占据了绝对的C位,但五月谷实际上是塞舌尔所有六种特有棕榈树共同的家园。除了著名的海椰子,你还能在这里找到被当地人称为百万富翁沙拉(Deckenia nobilis)的棕榈树,以及根部像高跷一样支撑在地面上的高跷棕榈(Verschaffeltia splendida)。这些植物形态各异,有的叶片巨大如扇,有的树干布满尖刺。如果运气足够好,你还能在溪流边看到一种叫做Latanyen Lat的奇树,它的根系不仅向下扎根,还会向上生长,把树干整个顶离地面,远远看去就像长了腿准备随时跑路。这种植物景观在其他热带雨林中极难见到。
保护区内规划了三条颜色标注的徒步路线,分别是北线、中线和南线。如果你的体力一般或者赶时间,走最短的环线大约四十五分钟就能完成,基本涵盖了核心的海椰子林。想要更深度地体验森林的静谧,建议组合北线和中线,全程大约需要两到三小时。在这条线路上,你可以走到一处名为观景台(Shelter)的高点,从那里俯瞰整片翠绿的山谷,感受那种与世隔绝的震撼。徒步过程中不要只盯着路面,多留意头顶的动静,或许能发现那种通体咖啡色、叫声清脆的塞舌尔黑鹦鹉(Black Parrot),它们目前在野外的数量仅存几百只。
钱的问题也得算清楚,目前的入园门票价格是每位非本国居民450塞舌尔卢比,折合人民币大约240元左右。虽然票价在当地景点中不算便宜,但这笔钱很大一部分用于支持塞舌尔群岛基金会(SIF)的保护工作。建议在上午八点开门时就准时入园。一方面是因为清晨的空气凉爽,爬山不会大汗淋漓;另一方面是为了避开从上午十点左右开始涌入的大型邮轮一日游团。那时的森林会变得嘈杂,那些胆小的稀有鸟类和变色龙也会躲得无影无踪。另外,入口处的游客中心提供免费的小册子,记得领一份,上面有详细的动植物分布说明。
目前非塞舌尔居民的成人门票价格为450塞舌尔卢比。景区售票处接受信用卡支付,也接受欧元或美元现金,但通常按照当地汇率折算,建议直接刷卡或使用当地货币更划算。如果提前在塞舌尔群岛基金会官网购买电子票,有时能享受百分之十左右的折扣。
如果你住在普拉兰岛,乘坐61路或62路公交车是最经济的选择,票价仅需12卢比。这两路车贯穿岛屿的东西海岸,经过五月谷正门口。如果从马埃岛坐船过来,下船后在码头直接打车前往大约只需要十分钟车程,费用约为200到300卢比。
黑鹦鹉是普拉兰岛特有的濒危物种,五月谷是它们最主要的栖息地。由于这种鸟性格害羞且通体深色,在茂密的林冠层中很难辨认。建议你在清晨或傍晚它们觅食活跃时前往,并保持安静,顺着那种尖锐的哨鸣声寻找。请当地导游随行会大大增加发现概率,导游费通常在150到200卢比之间。
五月谷的巨型海椰子叶片直径可达数米,在小雨天里它们就像天然的大伞,大部分步道并不会被淋透。雨后的森林空气更加清新,泥土的味道和植物的香气会变得非常浓郁,甚至有更大概率看到蜗牛和青蛙。只要不是极端的暴雨导致步道湿滑,雨天其实是体验这种史前氛围的绝佳时机。
Драгомир Донков The place is nice to visit, but overall there is not so much to see apart from the famous Coco De mer. And I find it rather costly for what it offers, naturally they just utilise the tourism potential of the place. We got a guided tour, which I liked, but honestly 50 Eur seemed rather expensive for a 1 hour tour with some trivia that was not entirely correct (I checked some facts told from the guide afterwards and were false).
MK Good natural park, there are 3 tracks you can take (1h, 2h and 3h) to view the incredible coco de mer trees. A souvenir shop, cefeteria and toilets are at the entry, as well as a good size parking.
Stevo T If you are on Praslin I guess this is the one attraction you have to see and (for me) totally worth it. Entrance fees are also a donation for the preservation of this coconut juwel. We also were accompanied by very friendly Yvette who gave us all the information we needed to fully enjoy this site. and the world famous (interestingly shaped 😉) coco de mer. So for us was abolutely worth to take this guided private tour (1000 SCR). Besides that try to spot the black parrots (also unique to Praslin) and some giant geckos (brown) on the palm trees (may be even on the male palm and the interestingly shaped pollen stand 🤭).
Gary Caley We had a wonderful time visiting Vallèe de Mai and were very fortunate to be paired with Dora as our guide. If you have the chance to be guided by her, you should take it! She was the perfect blend of information and fun and could spot a gecko on a coco de mer palm from insane distances! Having the chance to walk around amongst the 7 million year old forest, there is so much we would have missed without a guide. Highly recommended and thanks again, Dora! 😊
Maché De Jonge Really worth a visit. It is really special walking underneath these giants and meeting the local snails, frogs and birds. This is a good activity for a rainy day, as the canopy is so dense, we stayed drie underneath. The paths are well maintained and easy to follow. The gift shop is nice and the toliets are clean. They have a nice little café, but check what they can prepare for you before you order, as they did have a few things that were out of stock on the day that we were there. I would also recommend going early - it gets really busy with large tour groups later in the morning / around lunch time.