安斯马龙(Anse Marron)位于塞舌尔拉迪格岛(La Digue)的最南端,这里没有公路,没有码头,更没有商业配套,是岛上最难抵达也最令人心动的原始海滩。这片由粉红花岗岩天然围合而成的海水池,常年被《孤独星球》等媒体列为塞舌尔的隐藏瑰宝。想要亲眼见到这片被巨石守护的Tiffany蓝,你必须完成一场穿越原始丛林与翻越礁石阵的深度徒步。
在游客众多的德阿让海滩(Anse Source d'Argent)南侧,安斯马龙凭借其天然的地理屏障,成功挡住了大部分观光客。这里最绝的景观是被称为天然提篮的海水池,巨大的花岗岩石柱像卫兵一样挡住了印度洋的汹涌波涛,在中间留下了一片风平浪静、清澈见底的浅滩。即使是完全不会游泳的人,也可以在这些齐腰深的自然浴场里放松,看色彩斑斓的小鱼在脚趾间穿梭。
拉迪格岛面积不到10平方公里,骑自行车不到一小时就能环岛大半。然而安斯马龙所在的南部区域是自行车无法进入的禁区。这里保留了拉迪格岛最原始的生态,沿途你会遇到塞舌尔特有的棕榈蜘蛛、害羞的壁虎,甚至有机会在丛林深处撞见极度濒危的塞舌尔黑寿带鸟。这种与世隔绝的孤立感,让每一个抵达这里的旅行者都会产生一种探险家发现新大陆的错觉。
安斯马龙不建议甚至严禁在没有执证向导的情况下独自进入。这不是危言耸听,当地错综复杂的丛林小径完全没有任何路标,而且很多路段需要在涨潮前通过,否则海浪会直接截断退路。岛上著名的向导如罗伯特·艾格尼丝(Robert Agnes)通常会收取每人约40至55欧元的费用。这笔钱不仅包含了安全保障,还包含了一顿丰盛的克里奥尔午餐,通常是用香蕉叶包裹的新鲜烤鱼和热带水果拼盘,在海滩巨石荫蔽下进食的体验堪比五星级餐厅。
徒步通常从大安斯海滩(Grand Anse)开始,全程耗时约6到7个小时。你先要穿过一段闷热的内陆丛林,感受热带雨林特有的潮湿气息。随后,挑战才真正开始。你需要像螃蟹一样在巨大的花岗岩缝隙中横移,甚至需要手脚并用地翻越两米高的石壁。最刺激的部分是涉水路段,在低潮位时,海水会漫过膝盖甚至大腿根,你需要把背包高举过头顶,在湿滑的珊瑚礁垫上保持平衡。这种身体上的劳累在看到那片绝美海水池的一瞬间,会立刻烟消云散。
去安斯马龙,看潮汐表比看地图重要得多。经验丰富的向导会根据当天的低潮位精准安排出发时间,通常在早上8点半左右。如果错过低潮窗口期,返回德阿让海滩的必经之路会被海水完全淹没。此时如果强行通过,汹涌的海浪和锋利的礁石会变得极具攻击性。因此,出发前务必与向导确认当天的水文情况,不要在雨季大风浪期间冒险前往。
很多人穿着人字拖就想去安斯马龙,这绝对是灾难。你需要一双鞋底抓地力强的溯溪鞋,或者至少是一双穿旧了也不心疼的轻便运动鞋。全程你会经历泥地、沙地、湿滑的礁石和海水浸泡,鞋子的防滑性能直接决定了你是否会扭伤脚踝。此外,带上一件轻薄的长袖防晒衣很有必要,丛林里的蚊虫和午后毒辣的紫外线都不容小觑。
虽然安斯马龙海滩本身不收门票,但徒步的终点通常会连接到德阿让海滩所在的联合庄园公园(L'Union Estate)。进入公园需要支付150塞舌尔卢比(约合10欧元)的入场费。如果你是反向徒步,这笔费用通常已经包含在向导的接送安排中,但建议随身携带一些卢比现金备用。另外,由于安斯马龙全程没有任何商店,请确保你的背包里至少准备了2升以上的饮用水。
属于中等强度。如果你平时有简单的运动习惯,通常都能在向导带领下完成。全长约2公里的直线距离因为需要翻越岩石和涉水,实际体感会比普通步行累得多,不建议6岁以下儿童或患有严重恐高症的游客参加。
非常不建议。除了迷路风险,很多路段涉及私人领地和潮汐安全。跟着别人的团走不仅不礼貌,在发生意外时你也不受向导的保险保障。向导会负责背负全组的午餐和急救用品,这也是一种支持当地社区生态旅游的方式。
如果是短时阵雨,通常不影响行程。但如果遇到大雨导致花岗岩表面湿滑,或者东南季风带来剧烈海浪,向导会为了安全取消行程。建议在拉迪格岛预留至少2到3天的停留时间,以便根据天气灵活调整徒步计划。
安斯马龙沿途的海滩偶尔会有海龟上岸产卵的痕迹,但概率较低。想要稳定看到塞舌尔巨龟,可以在徒步结束后的联合庄园(L'Union Estate)里看到成群的圈养巨龟,那里有专门的保护区供游客近距离互动。
Peter Moser If you're looking for an unforgettable adventure on La Digue, I highly recommend taking a guided tour to Anse Maron. This hidden gem offers a perfect blend of excitement, natural beauty, and relaxation. The tour is well-organized and ensures your safety as you navigate the scenic yet rugged paths to the beach. Once there, you'll be rewarded with a stunning, secluded shoreline where you can unwind and soak up the sun. The experience is topped off with a delightful plate of fresh, exotic fruits, adding a delicious touch to your day. Whether you're a nature enthusiast or simply seeking a unique beach getaway, this tour promises a fun and memorable experience. Thank you Dave 💯
Petr Klobasa Extraordinary place ! I consider myself as an experienced hiker who has been to the top of Mount Blanc twice, camped in a remote part of the Amazon, done several days of winter hiking in the Alps or the African savannah. However that didn't prevent me from getting lost on this trail, even though I had GPS tracking of the route using the Alltrails app, when we walked westward from Grand Anse to this beach. This trail really requires a good knowledge of every rock along the way. Often you will be climbing over or under a rock formation and it can simply lead you in the wrong direction. You can literally climb up a rock formation a foot further than you should and miss the trail. Luckily we met a local guide with a small group who allowed us to join them to Anse Marron (for standard fee). The group continued up to Anse Source d'Argent, but we stayed Anse Marron, then returned to Grand Anse on our own as we already been in the western part of the cape on Anse Pierrot and Anse aux Cedre day before. It was a great decision because we could stay on this extremely beautiful beach by ourselves for couple of hours. If you want to go eastward from Anse Source d'Argent via Anse Pierrot or westward all the way from Grand Anse to Anse Source d'Argent, then you should always consider the low tide time as you will go 600-800 metres in the water between Anse Source d'Argent and Anse Pierrot. Therefore, my recommendation is hire a local guide. We met an English couple completely dehydrated and lost on the trail when we were returning in late afternoon. Fortunately they were lucky to meet and follow us back as we had similar luck with a local guide early that day.
Dries Van Houdt We took a guide since people recommend it. Gerard gave us a warm welcome @ the helipad. We dont do sports and for us the trail was easy and manageable without a guide. Gerard on the other hand gave a lot of info and made the trail very pleasant! La digue is small and Anse marron is worth visiting. Gerard stay positive buddy you made the trip a 5 star one.
Alexa Kumbier First of all, do NOT do this hike without a guide. Gerard from Coco Trails is excellent, and I highly recommend him. On the day of our original trip, we cancelled because it rained in the morning, and it looked like it was going to rain more. The next day, the group was slightly larger because of this (10 people). We met at a meeting point (the helicopter pad) and our group climbed into the back of a long pickup truck with benches. We were taken to Grand Anse Beach, where we started our "hike." To get to Anse Marron, we walked along the sand, in a jungle area, and up and over and under large granite boulders. This trail was unmarked, and Gerard had to tell us where to put our bodies and feet at times so that we wouldn't fall. He also physically helped some people. When we arrived at Anse Marron, it was breathtaking - one of the most beautiful beaches we have seen. And we've been to many beaches. The beautiful rocks and the color of the water were gorgeous. We had time to relax in the water and hang out before leaving. Some people snorkeled. During this time, Gerard went and found leaves from the jungle to weave us baskets, in which he placed freshly chopped fruit and some fish samosas. He had brought enough food in his bag for 10 people! Also, he did the entire hike barefoot. Pretty amazing. When the tide started coming in, we packed up our things to go. We did some more walking on the beach, bouldering, and walking through the jungle. Since the tide was coming in, we waded through ocean water that went up to my waist and at times up to my chest. I'm five feet four inches, so if you're taller, it's a little easier to walk in the water. During this time, if you didn't have a dry bag, you needed to hold your bag above your head. Gerard had some room in his dry bag in case people needed to put their things in there. I'm not sure how long it took, but my arms were a little tired toward the end - maybe 15-20 minutes. We didn't go back the way we came. We ended up at Anse Source d'Argent, where we stopped for a 20-minute break to buy juice and relax and then walked back to our meeting point. Throughout the hike, Gerard would stop to make sure we were all okay and to point out different flora and fauna of the area. He knew about every animal and plant and was very knowledgeable. He pointed out several Madagascan fodies and their nests, ghost crabs (and taught us the difference between males and females and also told us about their behavior), hermit crabs, skinks, a millipede, termites, morning glory flowers, takamaka trees, cinnamon trees (and we munched on the stems of the leaves), coconut trees (he chopped up coconuts and handed out fresh coconut pieces to us), and more. Being 27 weeks pregnant, I was worried that this hike might be too intense for me, but Gerard kept a slow pace, which helped a lot. We were all sweating profusely throughout the hike, and some people didn't seem to know what to expect. You have to be agile and in decent shape to do this hike. I would only recommend this trail for people who have the right gear and are okay with climbing on boulders. I'm glad that we had done our reading about this trail beforehand. Bringing 2+ liters of water per person is a must I would say. I drank more than two liters. If you have a water bladder like a CamelBak or a Platypus, bring it. It helps you stay hydrated. Also, bring a waterproof bag. For shoes, my husband and I did the whole thing in our Chacos sandals, which are waterproof and have very good grip. You need shoes with good grip. We didn't end up using the water shoes that we brought. We got sunburned on some parts of our bodies because we were sweating so much or wet from swimming, and when we reapplied, we were still wet. This was certainly a very adventurous trail with stunning views! Even though it was intense, I'd recommend it to those who are fit and confident.
kiran kurade Difficult to reach but good place to be.