普拉兰岛(Praslin)南部的冯德·费迪南德自然保护区(Fond Ferdinand)占地将近 122 公顷,面积几乎是世界遗产五月谷(Vallée de Mai)的六倍之多。这里成人门票通常只要 150 塞舌尔卢比左右,相比五月谷动辄 450 卢比以上的票价,性价比确实高出不少。如果你想在看海椰子(Coco de Mer)的同时顺便出一身汗,俯瞰塞舌尔内岛群的全景,这里绝对是普拉兰岛上最值得花半天时间探索的生态去处。
虽然五月谷顶着联合国教科文组织世界遗产的光环,但冯德·费迪南德在本地人心目中地位也很高。这片保护区在 2013 年才正式对游客开放,虽然名气没那么响,但胜在地方大、游客少。150 卢比左右的门票里已经包含了强制性的向导服务,不像在其他地方还得额外给导游费。在这里走路不用担心摩肩接踵,能真正感觉到自己掉进了原始丛林深处。
这里的向导大多是土生土长的本地小伙,他们对海椰子的了解不输专业学者。向导会带你观察海椰子从发芽到结果长达数十年的生长周期,甚至让你亲手掂量一下几十斤重的椰子核有多沉。除了海椰子,这片林子里还藏着红领牡丹鹦鹉和极其罕见的黑鹦鹉。向导通常会用口哨声吸引鸟类,这种互动感比单纯看说明牌要生动得多。
冯德·费迪南德的游览路线并不轻松,需要爬升超过 600 级台阶。虽然台阶大多是用当地红土或石块修整过的,但热带雨林里湿度极大,爬不了半小时就会大汗淋漓。整个徒步过程大约需要两到三个小时,建议身体素质尚可的游客尝试。沿途你会经过密不透风的棕榈林,路边偶尔会窜出巨大的石龙子或者象龟,这些细节让攀爬过程没那么枯燥。
爬到山顶观景台的那一刻,所有的疲惫都会一扫而空。这里是普拉兰岛南部的制高点之一,视线完全没有遮挡。往东看能一眼认出拉迪格岛(La Digue)的轮廓,天气好的时候,连更远处的费利西泰岛(Felicite)和科科岛(Coco Island)都清晰可见。这种海天一色的森林视角是五月谷提供不了的,因为五月谷的路线大多在幽暗的林间穿行,很少有这种开阔的制高点。
冯德·费迪南德位于普拉兰岛东南角的 Anse Marie-Louise。如果你打算坐公交车,可以搭乘 61 路或 62 路,在 Anse Marie-Louise 站下车,车站离保护区入口很近。要是自己租车的话,保护区门口有免费的停车位。说真的,普拉兰岛的路很窄且弯道多,开车的话记得避开上下学高峰时间,否则那条沿海公路堵起来也挺让人头疼的。
千万别指望穿人字拖能轻松走完全程,一双防滑性能好的运动鞋是必须的。另外,这里每天的入园时间相对固定,通常最晚的一次导览在下午一点半左右出发,建议早上九点到十点左右抵达,那时候太阳还没到毒辣的程度,林子里的光影也最适合拍照。记得在包里塞上两瓶 500 毫升的矿泉水,景区里的补给点没那么多。
目前成人票价大约为 150 至 180 塞舌尔卢比,具体价格可能随政策波动,建议出发前通过酒店前台确认最新信息。这个价格已经包含了大约两小时的专业向导陪同和讲解服务。
整个行程加上向导讲解和拍照时间,通常需要 2 到 3 个小时。如果你体力比较好,想在山顶多待一会儿,预留一个上午的时间会比较充裕。
一般情况下可以直接前往售票处购票,不需要提前预约。但因为这里必须跟随向导进入,如果你抵达时正好错过了一个大组,可能需要在大厅等上半小时左右,直到凑够下一组人出发。
Nadine Kugler I loved it! The tour is great and really informative. So if you wanna get some intriguing information about your holiday destination, while enjoying beautiful scenery and atmosphere - you've got it here. Our guide was Carlos and he is really funny in a teasing way, but I found that suitable. Just take your water bottles, suncream, -hat and -glasses and enjoy the "garden eden". You can even legally get a coco de mer there. Not to forget, that there are many more plants and animals. You can even refill your bottles with spring water.
Eli We recommend a guided tour, you will learn a lot of interesting information. We had a great funny Julie. After the tour you can walk through the park on your own. Don't forget good shoes and plenty of water. There is drinking water available in the park.
Tomas Janik Great tour with Carlos. He explained a lot about local trees (not only the coco the mer), they cinnamon trees, rose apples, mango, orange… and more. The coco the mer palm with the nuts is amazing to see. The nuts are huge and heavy. Take the guided tour for sure (9:30 and 11:00 am).
Gigi D Highly recommend ! I was advised to go there instead of vallée de mai as it’s cheaper but also more interesting and I wasn’t disappointed ! Entrance 300 SCR upon arrival. Well kept (currently part of the trails were closed for maintenance to avoid dangerous hikes) Definitely do the guided tour!!! at 9:30 and 11 you have a guide from the park that takes you around for free (see tipping below) and shows you absolutely everything in a fascinating way. He/she will walk you around explaining everything about the Coco de mer, its use, how its being grown but also all the other trees, plants and animals / bugs. Will explain all the trees and pick fruits for you to taste -some you’ll definitely never have seen or tasted- and bring back home even ! Absolutely great experience. Tipping is upon discretion after the tour, but they definitely deserve an earn it
Steffen Matthias Carlos is the best 💗 We did a very informative tour and would recommend to spend the time with the guide. Flat walk and you can hike to the viewpoint afterwards. Tour on Sunday 9:30 11:30 13:00 Buy a ticket online to save 30rps