库瑞尔岛(Curieuse Island)距离普拉兰岛(Praslin)北海岸仅约两公里,这片面积 2.86 平方公里的岛屿由于土壤中富含氧化铁而呈现独特的砖红色。作为塞舌尔海洋国家公园的一部分,这里不仅是超过 300 只阿尔达布拉象龟(Aldabra Giant Tortoise)的家园,也是除了普拉兰岛之外,全球唯一自然生长海椰子(Coco de Mer)的地方。多数游客会选择从普拉兰岛的黄金海岸(Anse Volbert)搭乘快艇前往,航程通常不到 15 分钟。
登岛后的第一站通常是位于拉考斯湾(Baie Laraie)的象龟保育中心。这里实行半开放式管理,成年象龟可以在树荫下自由爬行。这些长寿的生物性格温顺,你可以蹲下身子观察它们布满褶皱的颈部和坚硬的甲壳。保育中心还有专门的育儿室,保护着刚孵化不久、只有手掌大小的幼龟。据现场工作人员介绍,这里的象龟平均寿命超过百岁,部分个体甚至接近 150 岁。
从 1829 年到 1965 年,库瑞尔岛曾作为麻风病人的隔离地。这段略显沉重的历史如今只剩下医生故居(Doctor's House)这一标志性建筑。这座法式殖民风格的二层小楼现在被改建成了小型博物馆,展示了岛屿的生态演变和当年的生活遗迹。站在露台上向远方眺望,你很难想象这片静谧的海湾曾是与世隔绝的疗养所,如今它已被列为塞舌尔的国家纪念碑。
连接拉考斯湾和圣约瑟夫湾(Anse St. Jose)的是一条全长约 1.5 公里的徒步小径。这条路最精彩的部分在于横跨红树林沼泽的木栈道。退潮时,泥滩上密密麻麻分布着不同种类的招潮蟹,它们挥舞着巨大的单螯。如果你停下脚步仔细观察,还能看到各种罕见的鸟类和特有的陆蟹。这段徒步大约需要 40 到 60 分钟,部分路段需要翻越平缓的花岗岩坡道。
徒步过程中请留意路边的植被,这里长满了珍稀的海椰子树。海椰子树生长极其缓慢,一颗果实成熟可能需要 7 年时间。库瑞尔岛保留了这种史前植物最原始的生长状态,雄树和雌树的花序与果实形态各异。走在山径上,你会发现地面的土质在阳光照射下呈现出浓郁的赭红色,这正是库瑞尔岛法文原名意为红色岛屿的原因。
前往库瑞尔岛通常有两种方式。最常见的是参加包含烧烤午餐的一日游团,费用大约在每人 100 到 150 欧元不等,具体看船只规模和餐食标准。如果只是单纯想要往返,可以直接在普拉兰岛海滩找当地船家商量快艇接送。需要清楚的是,库瑞尔岛不包含在船费内的上岛费为 300 塞舌尔卢比(SCR),这笔钱直接上交给海洋公园管理局(SNPA)用于生态保护,建议提前备好现金或确认是否可以刷卡。
大多数库瑞尔岛的一日游行程都会包含圣皮埃尔岛(St. Pierre)的浮潜活动。这座小岛其实就是几块巨大的花岗岩加上几棵棕榈树。虽然岛屿面积很小,但周围的水域清澈透明。跳入水中,你会发现成群的蝴蝶鱼和偶尔经过的玳瑁海龟。这里水深大约 3 到 8 米,适合大部分浮潜爱好者,但由于海流有时较强,建议穿着救生衣。
目前的标准上岛费是每位外国游客 300 塞舌尔卢比。如果是参加游船一日游,通常这笔费用不包含在船票中,需要登岛后在管理局柜台单独支付。建议出发前准备好塞舌尔卢比现金,因为刷卡可能会遇到信号不佳的情况。
库瑞尔岛属于国家公园,岛上没有任何商业设施、餐厅或便利店。一日游团通常会自带食材在指定的野餐区举办克里奥尔风格烧烤。如果是自行上岛,务必随身携带充足的饮用水,并带走所有产生的垃圾。
每年 4 月和 10 月是最佳的旅游季节,这两个月是塞舌尔信风转换期,海面最为平静,浮潜能见度最高。如果是 5 月到 9 月前往,东南信风可能会导致海浪较大,快艇颠簸感会比较明显,且圣皮埃尔岛周围的水下能见度会有所下降。
完整体验象龟中心、徒步路线以及在圣约瑟夫湾浮潜,至少需要预留 4 到 5 小时。加上往返交通和午餐,标准的行程通常从早上 9 点持续到下午 3 点左右。如果只是为了看象龟,停留 1 小时也就足够了。
Emre It is easily accessible from Anse Volbert. You see turtles in their natural habitat. 80-100 year olds and baby turtles😍
kosta bk We've been here with Kreol Services and I can say it was a lovely day, even though the weather was not that great. The walking trip was nice, from one side to another. You'll encounter nice views, lovely trees. If you'll not have clouds, the sun will burn you. You'll also see a large amount of tortoises at the end of the trip. The barbeque offered by Kreol Services is not that wow. It's cheap, compared with the restaurants on the island, but nothin wow.
Niek Hartmann Pretty, but tourustic. We hired a taxi boat from cote dor beach praslin. Only 25 euro per person for a return. We arrived on 11.00 at beach a he picked us up at beach b. Everyone does the same trip. On arrival the entree fee for the island is 20 euro. Do not get yourself fooled by paying 85 plus euro with a bbq included. That is not worth it.
Gloria Kim Must go to take a glance at the ecosystem of the island. Trail hiking at the National Park can offer a picturesque view of the sea. Turtoises are friendly and kind. Some of them love humans. 🐢
Manojkumar Nambisan This small island is home to many giant tortoises, as well as beautiful beaches and hiking trails. On Curieuse, one can encounter giant tortoises (also known as Aldabra Tortoise) in their natural environment. There is a separate entry fee to this island, which was included in the tour package. The Geoli Charters tour dropped us at one end of the island and picked us up at the other end. At the starting as well at the end point, well arranged BBQ spots to self-cater were available. One can take a quick shower at the starting point before embarking on the trail. The trail though of moderate difficulty, feels relatively long on an afternoon. The best part of the trail is the boardwalk through mangrove swamps. Plenty of giant tortoises at the start and end spots. White sandy beach at the end where we are picked up by the tour boat, was a welcoming sight.