卢旺达比索克山(Mount Bisoke)海拔高度为3711米,是火山国家公园内最受户外爱好者欢迎的徒步目的地。这座休眠火山的山顶藏着一个直径约400米的翠绿火山口湖。相比隔壁需要两天一夜才能登顶的卡里辛比山,比索克山只需6至8小时即可完成往返,对于大部分体能中等的旅行者来说,是体验维龙加山脉(Virunga Mountains)魅力的首选。外国人徒步许可证费用目前为75美元,这个价格包含了公园导游和全副武装的护林员全程陪同。如果你想在卢旺达看一眼电影《迷雾中的大猩猩》那样的场景,这里就是正解。
许可证建议提前在卢旺达发展局(RDB)官网购买,或者找当地地接社代订。75美元的门票虽然涵盖了入门费和导游费,但并不包含从基尼吉(Kinigi)公园总部到徒步起点的那段交通。这段路由于全是火山碎石,普通的城市小车根本开不过去,必须租赁四驱越野车,往返租金通常在80至100美元之间。如果你是独自旅行,最好在早晨7点集合时找其他游客拼车,平摊下来的费用会划算很多。此外,公园内不提供餐饮,所有的水和干粮都要自己从穆桑泽(Musanze)或基加利带过去。
到了起点,你会看到一群穿着蓝色或绿色制服的挑夫。雇佣一名的费用大约是10至15美元。说真的,千万别在这个钱上省。比索克山的山路出了名的湿滑,即便你的背包里只有一瓶水,在海拔3000米以上的缺氧状态下,每一分重量都会被放大。挑夫更大的价值在于安全,在某些几乎垂直的泥泞陡坡上,他们能准确找到落脚点,并在你打滑时有力地拉你一把。这种体力支持往往是你能否坚持到顶的关键。
登山从海拔2700米左右开始,最初的一公里主要是穿过当地人的农田。随后进入茂密的竹林带,这是野生山地大猩猩最爱的地盘。虽然这张门票不是专门看大猩猩的,但运气好的话,真的能撞见大猩猩家族在路边吃竹笋。接着地形会变得陡峭,你会穿过哈吉尼亚(Hagenia)森林。到了海拔3200米以上,植被开始变得稀疏,巨型半边莲和千里光这些独特的高山植物会出现在视野里。这段路空气开始稀薄,呼吸会变得急促,建议每爬20分钟就停下来喝口水,调节心率。
必须说句大实话,比索克山的徒步其实是在跟泥巴较劲。由于这里降雨频繁,山路常年像抹了润滑油一样。如果你在大雨季前往,很多地方甚至需要手脚并用。另一个让人头疼的是刺荨麻(Stinging Nettles),这种植物的叶片长着细小的刺,隔着薄裤子都能扎得你又红又肿。一定要穿厚实的登山长裤,并把袜子套在裤脚外面。公园总部可以租到长筒雨靴,如果你的登山鞋不是全防水的,强烈建议花点小钱换上这种雨靴,虽然沉,但能保证你的脚不会陷在烂泥里湿透。
所有攀登者必须在早晨7点准时到达基尼吉的公园总部参加简报会。这意味着如果你住在基加利(Kigali),凌晨4点就得出发,单程车程大约2.5到3小时。由于徒步结束通常在下午3点以后,回到基加利已是入夜。更稳妥的方案是前一晚住在穆桑泽镇,这里离公园入口只有20分钟车程,能让你多睡会儿。如果打算徒步完直接飞离卢旺达,建议预订晚上9点以后的国际航班,给自己留足缓冲时间。
虽然卢旺达全境全年可游,但徒步比索克山的黄金体验期是6月到9月的长旱季,以及12月到次年2月的短旱季。这段时间山路相对干爽,虽然早晨依然会有浓雾,但到了中午云开雾散的概率较大。如果你在3月到5月的大雨季去,山顶火山口湖可能被浓雾完全遮蔽。山顶气温通常比山下低10度左右,清晨出发时冷到需要抱着热水杯,但爬起来后又会满头大汗,洋葱式穿衣法在这里非常管用。
官方规定的最低年龄是15周岁,主要考虑到高海拔对心肺功能的压力以及地形的复杂程度。不满15岁的青少年除非有特殊申请或极佳的体能背景,否则公园通常不予放行。
不包含。75美元仅涵盖入园费、向导费和持枪护林员的陪同费。雇佣挑夫属于私人劳务,费用在10至15美元左右,需在徒步结束后直接支付给对方现金,建议提前准备好小额美元或卢旺达法郎。
不能保证。虽然比索克山是大猩猩的栖息地,但如果你在路上偶遇它们,规则要求只能停留观察1分钟且不能拍照。如果你想专门看大猩猩,需要购买1500美元的大猩猩追踪许可证,那是另一条完全不同的路线。
门票一旦使用概不退款。如果因为高原反应或体力透支无法登顶,导游会安排一名护林员陪同你先行下山。建议在出发前一周进行适当的爬楼或慢跑训练,以适应连续数小时的坡度爬升。
绝对严禁在湖中游泳。由于火山口湖生态脆弱且湖底地形复杂,为了保护水质和游客安全,公园规定只能在湖边休息和摄影。此外,由于湖边海拔较高且气温极低,下水极易引发抽筋或失温。
R K Great hike. The price of 75 USD for foreigners is a bit steep but ok given the organization. I went solo without any car. The people in headquarters was a bit surprised as I showed in motorbike and mentioned that the trailhead is 30-40 mins drive from headquarters (most people go via a company with safari cars or 4*4). Fortunately, the guide helped me get a place with someone in the group. It should be ok if you are alone but there is a slim chance that everyone’s car is full. The hike is pretty moderate to hard and requires good stamina as it is steep. My group was relatively young and we finished the hike pretty fast. But I heard it common for people to turn back. The chances of seeing gorillas is rare. I heard that the guides will also actively try to avoid the encounter to keep the gorilla trek exclusive.
Barno Renfro I went hiking with the group to the top off mount bisoke which is the sleeping Vulcano . We were offered guides and boots which I was very happy about because after the hicking everyone who didn't have the Boots had soaked feet . It didn't rain on the day but was raining the previous day and because of the sun not reaching some areas still had the muds which made the hicking but slippery and some shoes were destroyed on that day .
JvM Great hike. Not too hard if you have some experience. The trail was in really good state early June, even though it rained two days prior. The mud (only in a few places) was more like clay, you could walk on it. It wasn't cold either. I did the entire hike in shorts and t-shirt. Really no need to get gaiters, even though many people will try to rent them to you (it's when you go off trail gorilla trekking). The guides will take you to the crater rim, not to the true summit. The total elevation gain from the point where you get the walking stick etc is 900m. No gorillas unfortunately, according to the guide there was only a 1% chance. Our guide was Christoph and our military guide was Jacob. Both were great 👍🏻
Etienne Michaud One of the best memories of our trip to Rwanda. Tough but rewarding hike. Hiring one porter per hiker proved extremely helpful, as they helped throughout the ascent and descent and were good company. Plan for both strong sun and possibly heavy rain as the weather can change quickly. Good hiking shoes a must. View from the top was breathtaking.
Y Wong An amazing hike to a beautiful crater lake at 3711 m. Takes about 3 hours to ascend on a good day, and more if it’s wet and slippery but worth every effort. Will require good endurance so please do not attempt if your fitness is not up to scratch, you will end up delaying the whole group. Will prob feel some mild altitude sickness for a couple of hours after descent but don’t let that put you off the hike. If you’re lucky, you may even see gorillas!