库贝特-哈瓦(Dome of Abu Al-Hawa)矗立在阿斯旺尼罗河西岸的黄色沙丘之巅,海拔高度约130米。这里不仅是古埃及第六王朝至中王国时期贵族们的安息之地,更是整座城市俯瞰尼罗河河谷、象岛(Elephantine Island)以及老瀑布酒店的最佳观景台。想要在旅行中把历史厚度与视觉震撼结合起来,库贝特-哈瓦绝对比市区的集市更值得花上半个下午的时间。
山坡上密密麻麻分布着数十座开凿于岩石之中的墓穴,历史跨度从公元前2200年左右一直延续。这些墓穴的主人多是古埃及边境的最高行政长官,也就是当时的阿斯旺省长。最值得看的莫过于第六王朝的赫库夫(Harkhuf)之墓,他在墙壁上留下的长篇自传铭文,记录了当年他率领船队深入非洲腹地进行四次远征的传奇经历。如果你仔细看,还能找到关于他带回一个侏儒献给年幼法老佩皮二世的有趣记载。
相比于帝王谷那种宏大叙事的壁画,萨伦普特一世(Sarenput I)和二世的墓穴展示了更多关于当时贵族审美的私人化细节。萨伦普特二世墓里的立柱色彩至今依然鲜亮,你可以清晰看到他穿着精细亚麻短裙的形象。这些石窟墓穴的内部空间比山脚下看起来要宽敞得多,通常包含一个列柱大厅和通往灵堂的走廊。这种依山而建的建筑结构避开了河水每年的泛滥,也让这些四千年前的石质纹路保存到了现在。
要去库贝特-哈瓦,唯一的办法是横渡尼罗河。你可以在东岸的公共码头或者随便找个路边的帆船(Felucca)船夫,商量好价格。目前从东岸包一辆电动小马达船过去的价格大约在100至150埃镑之间,航程不到十分钟。船会停在西岸靠近墓地入口的泥土滩头。下船之后,迎接你的是大约400级向上延伸的岩石阶梯。爬上去大约需要二十分钟,建议出发前在东岸买好矿泉水,因为山顶那个白色的清真寺附近基本没有售卖冷饮的小摊。
目前的成人门票价格是100埃镑左右,学生凭有效证件通常可以半价。售票处就在山脚下的入口处,注意只收埃镑现金,最好备好零钱。这里的开放时间一般是早上七点到下午五点。说到去的时间点,千万别选在中午。阿斯旺的太阳在空旷的沙山上毫无遮挡,即使是冬天也能晒脱一层皮。下午三点半到四点左右开始爬山最合适,等到了山顶,正好能赶上夕阳把对岸的城市建筑染成金色。
很多人把整座山叫做库贝特-哈瓦,其实这个名字原本是指山顶那座白色的伊斯兰圣徒墓。库贝特(Qubba)在阿拉伯语里就是圆顶的意思。这位圣徒叫阿布·哈瓦,当地人非常尊敬他。虽然内部可能并不总对游客开放,但这座建筑本身就是极佳的构图背景。站在这里,你能看清楚尼罗河水是如何被象岛一分为二,然后又在南边汇聚。这种视觉上的开阔感是你在市中心任何一家景观餐厅都无法体验到的。
墓道内部光线比较昏暗,虽然现在一些主要的墓室装了感应灯,但带一个手电筒或者利用手机闪光灯观察墙壁铭文细节会更方便。如果遇到看守墓地的守门人主动要帮你打光或讲解,这通常是需要支付小费的行为。如果不需要,礼貌拒绝就好。另外,下山的时候最好原路返回,不要轻易尝试走那些没有台阶的沙质陡坡,沙子很松散,非常容易打滑摔伤。
目前外国游客成人票价格为100埃镑,学生票50埃镑,建议出发前查看官网或询问当地向导以获取最新价格。售票处通常位于西岸山脚下的码头入口附近,目前仅支持现金支付。
从山脚售票处沿石阶攀登到顶部的白色神龛大约需要20到30分钟。全程约有400级台阶,虽然坡度较缓,但在高温下体力消耗较快,建议穿着舒适的运动鞋并携带足够的饮用水。
赫库夫(Harkhuf)之墓因其重要的远征铭文而闻名,萨伦普特二世(Sarenput II)之墓则以保存完好的色彩和雕刻艺术著称。这几座墓穴均位于半山腰的主游览区,是了解古埃及地方长官权力的绝佳窗口。
你需要先从东岸搭乘摩托艇或帆船前往西岸码头,船程约为5至10分钟。到达西岸后顺着明显的石阶向上步行即可。包船往返价格应提前谈妥,通常在150埃镑左右比较合理。
Man Ting Yeung Good place to see the whole Aswan, but caution: HOT!
Mohamed Badr Discovering the Dome of Abu Al Hawa, a majestic rocky mountain on the west bank of the Nile in Aswan, was a captivating journey. Standing tall at 130 meters, it harbors ancient Egyptian tombs of nobles and priests, echoing the rich history of the region. The southern peak hosts the shrine of a Muslim sheikh, Sidi Ali bin Al Hawa, creating a stunning white dome visible from afar. Nestled beneath is the remnants of a Coptic monastery dedicated to St. George. Climbing Abu Al Hawa proved challenging with closed paved paths, requiring a bit of hiking. Yet, the effort was rewarded with a mesmerizing view from the summit, making the ascent truly worthwhile. Reflecting on the experience, I hope the tourism ministry can enhance the care of Egypt's monuments, like the Dome of Abu Al Hawa. Perhaps delving into the insights of visitors (CX) and streamlining access to such sites would make these historical treasures even more accessible and enjoyable for everyone. #AbuAlHawaAdventures #HistoricalGem #EgyptianHeritage
Ali El Hedek Qubbet Al- Hawa view point offers one of the highest 360 degrees panoramic view at Aswan City. You can take the Felucca (Sail Boat) to pass from the west side to the east, a nice breezy trip which would take around 10 minutes, you should agree with the sail man on the price for the round trip before embarking on the boat, don't forget to take his mobile number as well as to set a return time in order not to wait long time till he returns back to you. The area is very safe as there is a police station on that side, you can climb stone stairs all the way up to the noble graves which are engraved in the mountain thousand of years ago. There will be a part which you will have to climb through the steep sand so make sure you are wearing a comfortable shoes that would assist you to climb in this sandy conditions, around 10 minutes climbing and you would reach Qubbet Al- Hawa itself which is the main touristic attraction. Be careful while climbing down as it is very steep and one would easily fall. Conclusion: 1- No need for a tour guide unless you want someone to brief you on the history of the location. 2- The area is quite safe 3- You can climb on foot or by renting a camel that would take you all the way to the top of the mountain 4- Schedule your trip with any of the many sail boats who are available on the west side on the Nile river, you may bargain the price till you reach a fair price, make sure it is a round trip. 5- Most important thing is not to forget your camera and enjoy every second 6- Ticket kiosk is available at the bottom of the mountain and usually there is no queue
Abhilash Kulkarni Best place in whole Egypt! 1. Great views of the Nile and the desert 2. Shade from the sun and breeze to keep you cool 3. Tombs of the noble nearby with inscriptions 4. Peace and quiet and very few tourists and people trying to sell you random things 5. Short fery ride to reach here for just 5 pounds
Andrew Romany Kobet Abo Elhawa in Aswan is a breathtaking spot to enjoy panoramic views of the Nile River and the surrounding landscape. The well-manicured gardens and ample seating options make it a great place to relax and take in the beauty of the area. The facilities are clean and well-maintained, adding to the overall comfort of the experience. The staff is friendly and helpful, making it easy to navigate the grounds. Whether you're a local resident or a tourist, a visit to Kobet Abo Elhawa is a must-do. The stunning views, peaceful atmosphere, and well-kept facilities make it an ideal place to spend a few hours taking in the beauty of Aswan. I highly recommend visiting this beautiful park and making some memories to last a lifetime.