卡拉布萨神庙(Kalabsha Temple)坐落在埃及阿斯旺高坝南侧的一座小岛上,门票价格通常在150至200埃镑左右。作为下努比亚地区最大的独立式神庙,它虽然名气略逊于阿布辛贝,但在建筑规模和历史厚度上完全不遑多让。很多游客去阿斯旺只盯着菲莱神庙,其实只要多花半天时间,就能在纳赛尔湖的静谧氛围中,近距离触碰这段由古罗马皇帝与努比亚众神共同书写的石刻史诗。建议出发前查看官网或当地旅游局的最新价格公示。
这座神庙最初并不在现在的位置,它原址位于阿斯旺以南约50公里的巴布卡拉布萨(Bab al-Kalabsha)。20世纪60年代,为了兴建阿斯旺高坝,整个努比亚地区的古迹都面临被淹没的灭顶之灾。在联合国教科文组织的号召下,一场史无前例的文物抢救运动拉开序幕。卡拉布萨神庙就在那个时期被整体拆解。如果不是这次搬迁,我们今天只能在几十米深的纳赛尔湖底寻找它的踪迹了。现在神庙所在的新址被称作新卡拉布萨(New Kalabsha),这里聚集了数座同样经历过大搬迁的珍贵古迹。
说到神庙的搬迁过程,细节精准到让人头皮发麻。当时的西德政府承担了主要的救援任务。专家们将整座神庙切割成大约13000块巨大的砂岩石块,每一块都做了严密的编号记录。从1961年开始拆卸到1963年重新组装完成,整个过程耗时超过两年。为了感谢德国在救援行动中的贡献,埃及政府后来还将其中一座神庙大门作为礼物赠送给了德国,目前这扇大门收藏在柏林的帕加蒙博物馆里。站在现在的神庙面前,如果不仔细观察接缝,你几乎看不出它曾经历过如此大规模的肢解与重构。
卡拉布萨神庙的主体建筑始建于公元前30年左右,也就是罗马皇帝奥古斯都统治时期。神庙主要供奉的是努比亚当地的太阳神曼杜里斯(Mandulis)。这位神灵的形象非常有意思,通常表现为长着人头的飞鸟,这种混搭风格在古埃及神话系统中极具地方特色。虽然建筑是由罗马人完成的,但风格严谨地遵循了古埃及传统。神庙全长约76米,宽约22米,巨大的塔门依然挺拔。进入内部,你可以看到奥古斯都皇帝向女神伊西斯和太阳神献祭的浮雕,那些石刻线条在两千多年后依然清晰有力,光影在石柱间移动时,画面仿佛有了生命。
岛上不仅有卡拉布萨一座建筑,周边还散落着几处不容错过的精彩看点。贝特瓦利神庙(Temple of Beit el-Wali)是由大名鼎鼎的拉美西斯二世凿刻而成的,这原本是一座岩石神庙。里面的彩绘浮雕保存得惊人完好,描绘了拉美西斯二世征服努比亚和利比亚的战斗场面,那种鲜艳的矿物颜料至今还没完全褪色。不远处还有娇小优雅的刻塔西凉亭(Kiosk of Qertassi),它的柱头采用了哈托尔女神的头像和纸莎草造型,简约的几何结构在纳赛尔湖湛蓝背景的衬托下,非常有视觉冲击力,是拍照出片的绝佳位置。
去卡拉布萨神庙没有陆路可走,唯一的办法是从阿斯旺高坝西侧的码头包船前往。说实话,这地方的游客比菲莱神庙少得多,但也意味着你可能需要更耐心地和船夫讨价还价。建议包船费用控制在300到500埃镑之间,具体看你的人数和停留时间,一般航行时间在15分钟左右。上船前务必跟船夫确认好价格是否包含往返,以及他在岛上等你多长时间。到了岛上之后先去售票处买票,这里通常只收本地货币现金或特定信用卡,备好零钱能省去不少麻烦。
由于阿斯旺的阳光极其毒辣,加上岛上几乎没有遮挡物,游览体验很大程度上取决于你到达的时间。清晨八点左右出发是最好的选择,这时候气温还没升高,湖面上的风还带着一丝凉意。如果你选择下午去,虽然夕阳洒在黄色砂岩上非常壮丽,但你得做好防晒降温的心理准备。整岛游览下来大约需要1.5到2小时,带够饮用水是非常现实的建议,因为岛上几乎没有任何商店。当你站在神庙顶层的天台上,俯瞰烟波浩渺的纳赛尔湖和远处沉默的沙漠,那种荒凉而宏大的美感会让你觉得这一趟折腾完全值得。
目前针对外国游客的票价大约在150至200埃镑,学生持有效国际学生证可享受半价优惠。由于埃及各景点近年来票价调动频繁,建议出发前通过阿斯旺当地酒店或官方公告再次核实。最好准备好埃镑现金,因为岛上的刷卡设备偶尔会出现信号不稳的情况。
单纯参观卡拉布萨神庙大约需要45分钟,但考虑到岛上还有贝特瓦利神庙和刻塔西凉亭,整体游览建议预留1.5到2小时。加上往返码头的车程和船程,从阿斯旺市区出发总共需要花费3到4小时。建议将此行程与阿斯旺大坝安排在同一天,因为两者物理距离非常近。
因为它在20世纪60年代由1.3万块石块手工拆解并在新址重组,整个工程耗时2年且没有改变神庙的建筑方位。作为下努比亚最大的独立式神庙,它的成功迁建标志着人类历史上最大规模的文物抢救行动取得了阶段性胜利。现在人们看到的每一块石头都是当年工程师精密测算的成果。
岛上售票处通常没有官方驻点导游,如果你对历史背景要求较高,建议在阿斯旺市区提前联系好持证导游陪同前往。如果只是想安静欣赏建筑和拍照,神庙内的指示牌有英文说明,通过说明牌也能了解基础的历史脉络。一些资深的包船船夫也会简单的英语,能指点你几个最佳拍摄角度。
Tim Curry We were the only people on the entire island! It's a bit shocking that this temple is so much less visited. We went to Philae earlier in the day and it was a mass of humanity. But here, we were free to explore the island and its temples all by ourselves. It's also a fascinating fusion of Nubian and Egyptian religions that we didn't get in any other temple complex. But go with a guide who knows the history or it will be lost on you.
Catherine Shawarby We boarded our own boat, no one else around, and had the temple and island to ourselves and the guardians, who seemed delighted someone had remembered them! The temple was moved from destruction by the building of the high dam and subsequent flooding of the valley to form Lake Nasser, an incredible feat in itself. The temple itself is small, and decor unfinished, in nubianstyle, but still fascinating to see. Walking the granite walkway to an adjoining island is the temple of Ramses II, a very small and compact temple with reliefs which still retain their colour but are quite rudimentary in style and ere are a couple of monuments around the temple which were saved at the same time which make interesting viewing, while the sun was hot there was a refreshingly cool breeze all around the island, and no humidity which draws the energy from you.
Elaine Carr This is a beautiful place. One of the things which made it such a great experience is that we were the only people visiting! Make sure you walk around the whole site. There are some excellent reliefs to see. We found images of an elephant on one of the stone blocks outside. It takes a bit of effort to get to and some negotiations with the boatman , (we paid 150EGP per person, which was probably too much). Views of Lake Nasser are stunning but sad to think of all the Nubian people displaced by the creation of the Lake.
Ernest T a relocated ancient temple on a tiny island. the open view to Lake Nasser was so beautiful and so peaceful. no tourist, the staff opened the gate and turned on the lighting for us, and it was very clean. the small forecourt, the vestibule, and a large relief in the 1st room were well maintained. in contrast, the Kiosk of Qertassi was a bit ruined. the boatman took us here, offered a small bazaar on the boat, very welcomed by ladies !
Nita B Choudhury This temple is not part of the usual tourist route, so you will be able to enjoy a relatively quiet visit without tripping over tourists and vendors alike. Built as a tribute to the Nubian Sun God Merul, also known as Mandoulis. This temple was transplanted from the original site that is 50 Kms south of Aswan. The rising waters of lake Nasser would have submerged the temple otherwise, when the Aswan High Dam was built. You will need to take a motorboat to the island. As you land, the causeway that leads to the huge gates of the temple are an impressive site indeed. There is also a well preserved Nilometer there.