摩洛哥首都拉巴特的皇宫(Royal Palace of Rabat)又被称为达累斯萨拉姆宫(Dar al-Makhzen),是现任国王穆罕默德六世的主要官邸。这座宫殿坐落在拉巴特市中心的 Touarga 区,不同于世界其他地方完全封闭的皇宫,它允许普通民众和游客进入外围区域,近距离感受北非王室的威严。虽然宫殿内部建筑群不对外开放,但走在宏大的广场上,观察身着鲜艳制服的守卫以及精美的安达卢西亚风格装饰,依然是了解这个古老君主制国家的绝佳窗口。
现在的皇宫建筑主体落成于 1864 年,是在 18 世纪苏丹穆罕默德三世留下的遗址上扩建而成的。它见证了摩洛哥从苏丹制向现代君主制的转变。当 1912 年摩洛哥成为法国保护国,且拉巴特被定为首都时,这座宫殿便稳固了其作为国家最高权力象征的地位。即便在今天,国王除了在此居住,每天还要在这里处理大量的国家事务,接待各国首脑。你会发现这里不仅仅是旅游打卡地,更是一个忙碌的行政核心。
这片被围墙包围的区域其实是一个完整的行政社区。除了最核心的国王居所,大围墙内还设有皇家内阁、最高法院、总理办公室,甚至还有专门为皇室成员和工作人员服务的医务室、小学和小型马场。据非官方估算,常年居住和工作在宫殿围墙内的人数超过两千人。这种宫政合一的格局在现代社会并不多见,让它显得既神秘又充满生活气息。
想进入皇宫广场参观,最关键的一点就是随身携带护照原件。在进入宫殿围墙的安检口,皇家卫队会非常仔细地检查每一位游客的证件。如果只带了复印件或照片,很大几率会被礼貌地拒之门外。这里的入场费用是 0 迪拉姆,没错,参观外部广场和宏伟的大门完全免费。通常建议从靠近考古博物馆的那座大门进入,那里对游客开放的流程相对成熟。整个参观过程不需要预订,只要在白天工作时间前往即可。
穿过安检进入被称为 Mechouar 的大广场,视野会瞬间开阔。这里常年驻守着身着标志性红色制服的皇家守卫,他们代表着皇家的最高礼仪。说真的,这里的守卫通常比较友好,允许游客在一定距离外合影,但一定要保持尊重的态度。如果运气好,赶上整点或是特定时段,还能看到小规模的卫兵换岗仪式。他们整齐划一的步伐和充满民族特色的头饰,总能让人联想起中世纪的北非史诗。
走近皇宫主入口,最先映入眼帘的一定是那一排排巨大的黄铜大门。这些大门全由手工打造,上面布满了繁复的伊斯兰几何纹样,在阳光照射下金光闪闪。大门上方覆盖着摩洛哥皇室标志性的绿色琉璃瓦。在摩洛哥文化里,绿色象征着伊斯兰教的尊贵与自然。这种绿瓦与土黄色墙面的色彩碰撞,在蓝天衬托下极其出片。即便不能推开那扇门,站在门前感受那份沉甸甸的历史感也完全值回票价。
在皇宫对面的广场另一侧,伫立着 Ahl Fas 清真寺。这是专供国王和皇室成员进行周五礼拜的场所。每到周五中午,如果国王在拉巴特,他会亲自骑马或乘车前往这座清真寺。那个时候,整个广场的安保级别会提升到最高,普通游客虽然无法靠近,但远远观望那种古老的仪式感也是很难得的体验。清真寺的宣礼塔虽然不高,但雕刻工艺极其精湛,是典型的马格里布风格建筑代表。
参观皇宫外部广场和建筑外观不需要买票,入场是完全免费的。游客只需要在三个主要入口之一出示护照原件进行登记即可。由于这里是办公重地,建议预留 30 到 45 分钟左右的游览时间,单纯为了欣赏建筑和拍照就足够了。
目前皇宫内部的寝殿、会议厅和办公室均不对外开放,游客的活动范围仅限于 Mechouar 大广场及其周边的公共区域。虽然无法看到室内的极尽奢华,但外部的七座宏伟铜门和附属的清真寺建筑已经包含了极高的艺术价值,非常适合摄影爱好者拍摄建筑细节。
虽然没有像进入清真寺那样严格的着装限制,但毕竟是王室官邸和行政中心,建议穿着得体,不要穿过于暴露的背心或超短裙。拍照时,严禁将镜头对准安检岗哨、监控摄像头或正在执勤的重装军警,但对于身着传统礼服的皇家卫队,通常在征得同意后可以远距离拍照。
Clau F It is a very clean and beautiful place, but it is nothing to see. Not recomanded!
Pree Chawla Amazing landscape and entrance area. You can’t really go inside the palace, they only allow you to take photos of the entrance which was quite odd. The grounds and trees were amazing though!
F. T. Great place to visit Welcoming guards and staff I wish if they allowed visitors to see more spots inside the palace
vinay moharil Our tour to this place was a little disappointing since we could not get inside the palace. I am sure the palace is awesome from the inside but just seeing the gates from outside and seeing the 3 arches in line was not enough
Ellen Stiefler The Royal Palace of the king of Morocco is only used as his offices. The building itself is 5 acres in size and no one knows what it looks like inside. So when you go to visit the palace, you have to stand a good distance away and it’s not much to look at from the outside. There are a number of different kind of uniformed men outside but they too, are at such a distance. It’s hard to see any of the detail of their outfits. The grounds of the royal palace, both inside and outside the walls are meticulously maintained, but it’s mainly vast Hardscape and fast amounts of lawn. The botanical gardens are far more interesting and pretty. There are huge fountains on the plaza, but they had no water in them when we were there. Apparently they only have water and are working fountains when the king is at the Royal Palace, and he prefers to live in his residence in Sale There is a large mosque on the property with the characteristic Morrocan square single minaret. It was interesting to learn that after Ramadan, everyone is invited into the royal palace grounds to celebrate together.