很多人来到摩洛哥北部只是为了看舍夫沙万那抹忧郁的蓝,却容易忽略距离蓝城仅30公里的塔拉塞姆塔内国家公园。在这片茂密的里夫山脉深处,隐藏着落差将近100米的大阿库尔瀑布(Grande Cascade D'akchour)。相比于城市里的喧嚣,这里提供了一处完全由山泉、石灰岩峡谷和野生猕猴构成的天然绿洲。从舍夫沙万驱车前往大约需要45分钟,整条徒步线路单程全长5.5公里,即便体力一般的人也能在5到6小时内完成往返,是体验摩洛哥自然地貌性价比极高的方式。
最省钱的方式是去城里汽车站附近的拼车站坐大出租车。这种被称为Grand Taxi的拼车通常每人收25迪拉姆,司机会等到凑齐六个人才发车。如果你不想等,也可以花150到200迪拉姆直接包下整辆车,这对三四个人出行的团队来说更划算。路况虽然弯道多但全是铺好的柏油路,沿途风景非常开阔,能看到远处的山峦起伏。
进入景区本身是不收门票的,这点对背包客非常友好。如果你是自驾过来,停车费通常在10到20迪拉姆之间,具体看你停的位置离起点有多远。步道沿途有很多柏柏尔人开的小摊位,一杯现榨橙汁大约15迪拉姆,河边的塔吉锅午餐在70迪拉姆左右。说真的,这里的物价比舍夫沙万老城要实在不少,没必要背着沉重的补给上山。
出发走上几分钟就会看到一座老旧的水电站大坝,这里是整个景区的核心分岔口。很多游客在这里走错路,最后想看大瀑布却到了上帝之桥。记住一个简单的口诀:过桥向左走是去大瀑布的方向,而沿着右侧河岸继续走则是去往上帝之桥。去瀑布的路大部分时间都在树荫和河谷里穿行,相比之下要比去上帝之桥晒得少一些。
去往大瀑布的路径其实由两部分组成。走一个小时左右会先看到一个小瀑布,很多带小孩的当地家庭会在这里止步。如果你追求更壮观的景色,就得继续往深处走一个半小时。这段路会出现一些比较陡峭的石头台阶,甚至需要踩着石头跨过几处浅滩。当那道百米高的细长水流出现在红色岩壁前方时,你会觉得之前的汗水都没白流。
大阿库尔瀑布最妙的地方在于那些直接摆在溪流里的塑料椅子。走累了就把鞋脱掉,把脚泡在冰凉的山泉水里,等着摊主把热气腾腾的塔吉锅端上来。水里的温度常年保持在十几度,即便在摩洛哥最热的八月份,这里也是绝佳的避暑圣地。有些深潭的水质清澈见底,胆子大的人会直接从岩石上跳进水里游泳,不过下水前最好先试探下深度。
虽然这段路算不上极高难度的专业越野,但普通平底鞋绝对会让你吃苦头。路面上有很多长满青苔的滑石,还有不少泥泞路段,一双防滑性能好的运动鞋或徒步鞋是必需品。另外建议在上午九点前出发,这时候山谷里气温还没升高,而且能在大批旅游团抵达前享受瀑布下那一潭碧绿的宁静。如果你是在七月到十月期间过来,瀑布的水量可能会变小,但在雨季后的三月到五月,水量大得能在几百米外就听到轰鸣声。
每年三月到五月是最佳观赏期,这时由于春季降雨和山顶融雪,瀑布流量最为惊人。如果拖到九月份的旱季末尾,原本壮观的百米落差可能缩减成一道细流,不过那时候更适合在河里游泳。
完全不需要专门请向导,因为沿着河边走的基本只有一条主路,而且沿途路标和路人的密度足够让你不会迷路。如果你遇到那些强行要带路的人,礼貌拒绝就好,省下那150迪拉姆的向导费多买几杯橙汁更实在。
从舍夫沙万出发算起,建议预留一整天的时间,也就是大约7到8个小时。其中往返交通占去1.5小时,徒步往返瀑布需要4到5小时,剩下的一两个小时正好可以在河边吃顿午饭或在水潭里游会儿泳。
Jelmer W Fairly nice hike up there, with some good views of the gorge. In summer (we went in June) the water coming down from the waterfall seems to be minimal. The track itself is quite easy to find so I would not recommend a guide. However, you may want to follow some app such as Komoot to make finding the right track a bit easier.
Tereza Laube Amazing nature and a way full of adventure. We we're here in Summer and we swan in lakes. Food in bistros are delicious and for great price. People in Chauen are very kind.
Richard Attoe Great hiking in beautiful nature. I hiked along the river bed to the base of God's Bridge then returned to the junction and hiked up another few gorges to the main waterfall. The path is good a bit slippery with loose gravel in places. The bird song is nice and I saw monkeys and nice wild flowers. There are plenty of places to swim. The views are great, the main waterfall had very little water but it was nice to get there. Both walks took me approx 5 hours in total. The car park is good and cost me 15md for the day. Highly recommend 👌
Yoga Mondo We were on this National Park to admire nature. Here, passing restaurant/snacks, it is possible to connect with the elements sorounding: the water so closeby, the animals doing their thing, the colours of the vast mountains, the trees and shrubs. It's really beautiful and worth. We were lucky to go on a december sunny morning and have a calm walk all the way. Not to be missed.
Amalia Rosa We did the trail to the small and larger cascades in early december on a sunny mid-morning, leaving Chefchaouen at 10h30. It was fantástic! The trail os not really entirely marked but it's easy to find, with the help of local restaurant/café keepers. The nature is beautiful: Animals, trees and shrubs, singing birds, the water all along and the amazing colours of the tall mountains. Make sure to bring appropriate shoes.