- 舍夫沙万老城- 景点攻略Chefchaouen Medina
- 历史文化
- 5 评论
舍夫沙万老城深度游指南：蓝色山城的历史细节与避坑实测
舍夫沙万老城（Chefchaouen Medina）坐落在摩洛哥北部的里夫（Rif）山脉，海拔大约600米。老城本身并不收取门票，它是当地约4.2万居民日常生活的一部分。如果你打算从丹吉尔（Tangier）坐巴士过来，车程通常在3小时左右。这里最有名的深浅蓝色墙面并非建城之初就有，其历史厚度远超社交媒体上的滤镜。比起在游客堆里拍大片，弄清楚这些巷子为什么是蓝色的，以及如何避开那些专宰游客的拍照陷阱，会让你的旅程舒服得多。
藏在深蓝色油漆下的历史真相
1471年的军事堡垒起源
舍夫沙万并不是为了旅游才存在的。1471年，穆莱·阿里·本·穆萨·本·拉希德·阿拉米（Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami）为了抵御葡萄牙人的入侵，在这里建立了一座防御性的小型堡垒，也就是现在老城核心区的卡斯巴（Kasbah）。当时的建筑多为白色的石头原色。到了15世纪末，大量为了逃离西班牙宗教审判的穆斯林和犹太人涌入这里，带来了安达卢西亚风格的庭院和拱形门窗，才形成了现在这种错综复杂的迷宫布局。
为什么整座城都是蓝色的
关于蓝色的由来，流传最广的说法是20世纪30年代逃难至此的犹太人将房屋涂成蓝色，以此象征天堂并提醒自己保持灵修。不过，如果你和当地的老年人聊聊，他们会告诉你蓝色的深浅其实有讲究。有些深蓝色是为了在视觉上驱赶蚊虫，有些浅蓝则是为了在夏季高温时保持室内凉爽。现在你看到的那些饱和度极高的蓝色，大多是居民为了维持美观而定期重新粉刷的结果。
步行老城的实测路线与重点景观
从乌塔哈曼广场开始的漫步
乌塔哈曼广场（Plaza Uta el-Hammam）是老城的社交中枢，也是你最容易找回方向感的地方。广场一侧是砖红色的卡斯巴堡垒，进入参观需要支付60摩洛哥迪拉姆（约合人民币40多元）。虽然里面只是些破旧的塔楼和花园，但爬上塔顶可以俯瞰整个蓝色麦地那的波浪形屋顶，这个视角在别处很难找到。广场周围有很多咖啡馆，但说真的，如果不是为了歇脚，没必要在这里吃饭，价格普遍比巷子深处贵出两三成。
避开收费陷阱的摄影建议
在老城的东北部，有很多看起来像电影布景的阶梯和门廊。有些居民会在自家门口精心布置花盆和彩绘，这些地方通常会立个小牌子写着“5 DH”，意思是进去拍几张照要付5迪拉姆。不夸张地说，这种收费虽然便宜，但如果你想拍到更自然的风景，建议清晨8点到9点出门。那个点儿一日游的团还没到，巷子里只有送面包的小板车和没睡醒的猫，光线透过窄巷打在蓝色墙壁上的明暗对比非常迷人。
西班牙清真寺的落日挑战
如果你体力还行，一定要去老城外东侧山坡上的西班牙清真寺（Spanish Mosque）。从麦地那东侧的出口Ras El Maa出发，沿着之字形的山路上行，大约需要走30到45分钟。这座清真寺建于1920年代，但从未被正式投入使用，现在是个纯粹的观景点。傍晚六点左右，当整个山城从蓝色逐渐被夕阳染成橘粉色时，那种视觉冲击力确实很强。记得带件外套，山上风很大，清晨或傍晚凉意明显。
出行干货与避雷提醒
交通枢纽的上下坡考量
到了舍夫沙万，第一个难题是交通。CTM巴士站位于山脚下，而老城位于半山腰。如果你拖着20寸以上的行李箱，千万别尝试自己走上去，全是陡峭的石子路，轮子根本经不起折腾。在巴士站门口打个“大出租车”（Grand Taxi）到老城的马赫扎门（Bab el Mahrouk）大约只需15到20迪拉姆。另外，从菲斯（Fes）坐大巴过来要4个半小时左右，山路弯道极多，晕车的话记得提前吃药。
值得尝试的北非风味
这点很多人不知道，舍夫沙万所在的里夫山区以出产山羊奶酪（Goat Cheese）闻名。在早上的集市里，你能看到穿着传统条纹斗篷的柏柏尔妇女在卖新鲜的奶酪球，通常用棕榈叶包裹。买一块配上当地特产的野花蜂蜜，味道很独特。如果想吃正餐，找那种藏在巷子里、没写中文菜单的小店，点一份当地特色的蚕豆汤（B’ssara），几块钱就能吃得胃里暖洋洋。
常见问题
参观舍夫沙万老城需要买票吗？
进入老城区域是完全免费的，因为它是一个开放的居民居住区。只有参观内部的具体景点如卡斯巴博物馆需要付费，目前的成人票价是60摩洛哥迪拉姆。另外，山坡上的西班牙清真寺也是免费开放的。
从丹吉尔或菲斯过去哪种交通方式最方便？
首选CTM公司的长途巴士，班次相对准时且车型较新，从丹吉尔出发大约3小时，从菲斯出发约4.5小时。建议至少提前一天在官网或窗口买票，因为这两条线路非常热门，现场买经常没位子。
这里真的像照片上那么蓝吗？
是的，老城的大部分区域确实被刷成了蓝色。不过要注意，蓝色主要集中在老城（Medina）内部的巷子和外墙，新城区（New Town）的建筑则相对普通。老城内的墙面每年都会重新粉刷，所以颜色的鲜艳程度非常稳定。
在老城拍照需要注意什么？
在拍摄当地人，特别是妇女或小孩时，一定要先征得对方同意，有些保守的居民非常介意被陌生人拍。一些经过装饰的人造景点（如私家小院门前）会收取5-10迪拉姆的拍摄费，通常这会被视为一种合法的商业行为，提前商量好价格即可。
舍夫沙万老城 用户评价
Rasheed TK - 5
Chefchaouen Medina is a gem! This blue city is incredibly vibrant and beautiful, with its stunningly bright blue buildings creating a unique and enchanting atmosphere. The old buildings are well-maintained, adding to the charm of the place. As you enter the medina, you’re greeted by a cold, refreshing water stream, setting the perfect tone for your exploration. Walking through the medina is a delightful experience—every corner reveals a new shade of blue and a piece of history. Absolutely worth the visit.
Legends l - 4
Chefchaouen is an interesting city/town. It is set in a valley really. There are picturesque views of the city especially when approaching it from Fes. From afar, the city may not be as blue as it is portrayed. The Medina itself is nice. The people are friendly enough if you are the kind of person who likes to greet people. If you are not the type then best avoid eye contact. It is not that big a Medina so you shouldn’t get lost. There are various merchandise shops, restaurants as well as the famous blue decor. You will soon discover that for most buildings, the blue paint doesn’t always go all the way to the top of buildings. If your aim is to take social media photos rather than simply meander and enjoy this place then prepare to pay for your photos in certain places. There’s a saying that looks can be deceiving! Be aware that people might approach you offering accommodation (dangling keys) or to be your tour guide. Use your own discretion. Remember that you are in the midst of locals who see different faces everyday therefore it is good to observe silence where necessary whilst respecting notices displayed in the Medina. There’s plenty to eat and drink. It is fairly more expensive near the square. I would recommend at least one night stay here. There are a few gates from where you can approach the Medina. For international travellers, you may find commission free machines near Hassan II Boulevard. If you visit here from May until the summer is over, please please make you have sun protection and lots of fluid handy. It gets really hot. Worth a visit but a way to go so if you have other plans, prioritise your itinerary.
Ани Сурчева - 5
Amazing place! Really recommend! Give yourself time to goi around the small streeta, to lost yourself into the labyrinth. The blue colour ia everywhere and is great! This is a magical place!
JlibinaTV - 4
The medina itself is mesmerizing, beautiful architecture and alleyways throughout the whole city, the kasbah is beautiful and conceals a lot of history, the plaza is full of life. One thing that made me quite uncomfortable though is the amount of people trying to sell you weed and some of them get quite pushy with it. Also this probably isn't an issue to everyone but personally I don't like it when local products get repetitive, most people sell the same exact things with different prices that's it, there are a couple of unique shops but that's it. Otherwise the experience was good
MP - 5
Beautiful blue city of Morocco. With a lot of character in the building construction. Love the way history is preserved. Hope the place is cleaned more often. And hope this place has more public toilets. Loved how indigo dyes were used. A day well spent. A must visit place.
