马拉喀什旧城区(Medina of Marrakesh)占地约 6 平方公里,1985 年被联合国教科文组织列入世界文化遗产。这片始建于 1070 年的古城被长达 19 公里的粉赭色城墙环绕,至今仍有超过 8 万居民生活在其中。对于初次到访的人来说,老城既是《一千零一夜》的现实版,也可能是一场考验耐心和体力的迷宫挑战。建议避开 6 月至 8 月超过 40 摄氏度的高温天,选择 3 月到 5 月或 9 月至 11 月出行,那时白天的阳光虽然强烈,但早晚清凉且干燥。
老城的物理边界非常明确,就是那圈高达 9 米的赭红色土墙。这道墙不仅是历史的屏障,也是你判断方位的重要参考。老城内的街道极其狭窄且没有规律,大部分巷子仅能容许两辆摩托车勉强交汇。如果你住在老城的里亚德(Riad)传统庭院旅馆,建议提前联系旅馆安排接机或在城门口碰头。因为很多旅馆隐藏在连导航都标记不清楚的深巷里,自己拖着箱子盲目寻找很容易被热情的带路党盯上。
说句大实话,谷歌地图在麦地那内部经常会有 20 到 50 米的定位偏差。在这种环境下,认准几个关键地标比看手机更靠谱。库图比亚清真寺(Koutoubia Mosque)那座 77 米高的宣礼塔是全城的视觉制高点,只要能看到塔尖,你就能大致判断德吉玛广场(Jemaa el-Fnaa)的方向。另外,观察地面铺装也有讲究。通常主干道的石块比较规整,而通往私人住宅的死胡同则可能越走越窄。迷路了不要在大街上显得一脸茫然,可以进店买瓶水顺便问问老板路线,这样比在路边随机求助要安全得多。
目前老城核心景点的门票价格普遍在 50 到 70 迪拉姆之间。本约瑟夫神学院(Medersa Ben Youssef)是绝对的视觉重心,50 迪拉姆的门票能让你看到摩洛哥最极致的马赛克拼贴和雪松木雕刻。建议在早上 9 点开门时准时入场,否则 10 点以后旅游团涌入,那块著名的中央水池根本拍不到空镜。巴希亚宫(Bahia Palace)的门票已涨到 70 迪拉姆,虽然占地 8000 平方米,但由于内部基本没有家具陈设,看多了重复的几何图案容易产生审美疲劳。如果时间有限,二者选其一的话,神学院的建筑结构更具视觉冲击力。
德吉玛广场每天下午 5 点以后才真正活过来。这里是全世界唯一一个被列为非物质文化遗产的广场。说真的,千万别随意对着耍蛇人或玩猴子的艺人拍照,只要你举起手机,对方可能瞬间问你要 100 迪拉姆。喝橙汁是广场上的固定项目,一杯鲜榨橙汁只要 4 到 10 迪拉姆,物美价廉。想看日落全景的话,广场周边的咖啡馆二楼是绝佳位置,但你需要提前一小时占座,并且通常需要点一杯 30 迪拉姆左右的薄荷茶作为入座费。
麦地那的露天市场(Souks)按照行业划分,比如皮革区、染坊区和铁艺区。在这里买东西如果不砍价,你可能会多花三四倍的冤枉钱。砍价的基本原则是从三折开始喊,最终成交价通常在开价的四折到六折。如果卖家不松口,直接转身离开往往能让他给出底价。注意这里的皮革制品可能有较重的羊膻味,购买皮拖鞋或皮包前一定要闻一闻自己是否能接受。大部分摊位不接受刷卡,身上备足小面额的迪拉姆现金非常重要。
在老城里行走,最常听到的就是这路不通或你要找的地方关门了。说句不夸张的话,百分之九十的情况都是对方想把你引向他亲戚开的商店或者索要带路小费。如果你确实需要带路,一定要提前讲好价格,通常走 10 分钟的路给 20 迪拉姆就足够了。最稳妥的办法是找穿制服的警察或者在固定摊位里忙碌的商贩问路,他们通常不会为了这点小钱而误导你。
库图比亚清真寺虽然宏伟,但目前摩洛哥只有卡萨布兰卡的哈桑二世清真寺对非穆斯林开放内部。在马拉喀什,你只能在清真寺外的花园拍照。遇到穆斯林正在做礼拜时,不要对着正脸近距离拍摄,这是非常不礼貌的行为。老城的着装建议以得体为主,虽然现在游客很多,但过度暴露的衣物在保守的麦地那街区还是会招来不必要的注视。
巴希亚宫和萨阿迪王朝陵墓的门票目前均为 70 迪拉姆,本约瑟夫神学院为 50 迪拉姆。建议准备好足够的当地现金,因为这些景点的售票处基本不接受国际信用卡支付。
主要区域非常安全,但夜晚 10 点以后应避开没有灯光的深巷。遇到过于热情的带路者只需坚定地说不谢谢即可,若对方纠缠,向附近的商铺老板或警察寻求帮助。
广场上的露天摊位(如 1 号或 14 号等名摊)客流量大,食材相对新鲜,但肠胃敏感者建议避开蜗牛汤或沙拉,点熟透的烤肉和塔吉锅。一杯现榨橙汁大约 4 至 10 迪拉姆,是性价比极高的选择。
核心景点走马观花大约需要一天,但如果想深入体验苏克市场和传统哈曼浴,建议安排两天时间。老城面积约 6 平方公里,全靠步行非常消耗体力,记得穿一双防滑耐走的平底鞋。
sebaj khan I was in morracco markech. . I was 17 days. In markech morracco. I was injoy. Old Medina. Buteyfull aria. Nice shopping market.
Amaya Love This place is both enchanting and deeply saddening. Seeing animals chained up is truly heartbreaking, especially witnessing so many cats in dire need of food, baths, and medical attention. The constant hustle and bustle can be overwhelming for those sensitive to it. Exploring the labyrinth of shops is both beautiful and intense, made more so by the persistent advances from men, some attempting to lure you into secluded areas to extort money, which can be quite frightening. The streets are littered with trash and motorcycles in the small alley ways makes it stink so strong of fumes. Despite spending ten days in the area, I did discover some genuine kindness beneath the surface. For a woman embracing the local culture in dress and demeanor, it can still feel overpowering. I t's advisable to assert a marital status to deter unwanted attention. Even within the safety of accommodations, the feeling of being seen as an opportunity can be unsettling. The atmosphere here seems to thrive on charm and distraction, urging caution and a keen sense of awareness. It's essential to decline unsolicited guidance and navigate with respect and preparedness for the unexpected. Feeding any of the cats can provide a small but meaningful gesture of compassion and care for them. Many of them appear so emaciated that it's hard not to be moved to tears by their plight. The olive area with fresh plants made me the happiest! I wouldn’t discourage anyone from visiting, just make sure you have the energy for it.
Ahmed Subhi Such a great day to be in this city and have some good food and drinks with the nice people of the old city and enjoy ancient history of the architecture of this town and enjoy nice weather with hot sun if you’re there in summer. The city could manifest the old way of living with such a tiny houses and buildings that built side by sides and there are zero gardens within the city so no empty space or other places that kids or adults could go unless they have to go out of the town cause there are gardens and empty spaces out there . You could see how kids are playing in the walk sides beside motorbikes are driven inside the old town and the pedestrians so at some point you don’t feel safe cause you feel that a motorbike will ride you over but the moment you enter the city the moment you adopt with all that traffic specifically the motorbike. The city has a special kind of test that would make you wonder how people lived under this conditions. You feel how the people are living and how much happy they are and how greatly satisfied with themselves. Cause most of the people there are happy say hello to you and would love to invite you over a tea . There are those small ancient shops with small wooden doors that full of goods are mentioned to be sell for tourists. A lot of restaurants that you could find but be sure to go the right ones that offer the real home made food that would make you eat without thinking. The city is so hot in the summer still doable to visit at evening. There are some nice big cafe that you could seat and drink with nice view on the city . Be sure to go to the big food market at night and try to eat the food from the market . Don’t expect big portions with little money, they know all the value of the currency so they serve you with the amount you pay and I think it’s fair enough as I ate 2 starters with main mix grill dish with juice for 13€ , I know the quantity was not that big but in the end the food was good . If you visit the city in the Muslim Eid celebrations you would be lucky enough to see how Moroccan celebrates especially at the center of the old city where the big food market is you would be able to see the music bands playing traditional music with instruments and people gather around them . Such a great place to visit so different from the Europe perspective. You feel you are in different place with different system with different life style. I recommend the place so so so much and don’t be lost inside the old city cause you will be living there in small house . The city has the best food there and you will have the best food in town. The fresh drinks at the square is great and testy and not that expensive and there are various options to order and they are fresh and testy with fresh fruits that made in front of you. The view of the old city is fantastic and you will be able to enjoy it with the sun . Be ready when you go there cause the museums are a lot in the old city and they are full of history and life .
Sandra Soooo good
Onur Ozsoy Old Medina Marrakech is an enchanting labyrinth of narrow alleys, bustling souks, and historic landmarks that beckons travelers into a timeless world of vibrant colors and rich cultural heritage. This ancient walled city, with its intricate tapestry of sights, sounds, and scents, stands as a testament to centuries of Moroccan history and craftsmanship. At the heart of the Medina lies the iconic Jemaa el-Fnaa square, a bustling hub of activity where storytellers, musicians, and vibrant market stalls create a sensory spectacle. As the day unfolds, the square transforms, evolving from a daytime marketplace into an atmospheric evening carnival, where the aromas of sizzling street food blend with the haunting melodies of traditional music.Wandering through the narrow alleyways, known as derbs, reveals a kaleidoscope of architectural wonders. Ancient mosques, riads adorned with intricately carved wooden doors, and historic palaces showcase the city's Islamic and Moorish influences. The Koutoubia Mosque, with its soaring minaret, stands as a symbol of Marrakech's spiritual and architectural significance.The souks, or markets, weave through the Medina like a vibrant tapestry of commerce. Narrow stalls brim with handcrafted treasures — from intricately patterned rugs to shimmering lanterns and vibrant textiles. Each souk specializes in a particular craft, allowing visitors to witness skilled artisans at work, carrying on age-old traditions. Hidden gems like the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs provide glimpses into the opulent history of Marrakech's rulers, featuring stunning mosaics, ornate courtyards, and serene gardens. The Maison de la Photographie offers a captivating visual journey through Morocco's past, showcasing a collection of vintage photographs that evoke a sense of nostalgi. Navigating the Medina is an immersive experience, with surprises awaiting at every turn. The aroma of exotic spices wafts from the spice market, and the vibrant hues of traditional Moroccan ceramics create a visual feast. The riads, traditional Moroccan homes with inward-facing courtyards, offer tranquil havens amidst the bustling surroundings.The Old Medina of Marrakech is more than a historic district; it is a living, breathing testament to the city's resilience and cultural vibrancy. Its timeless allure draws visitors into a captivating dance of tradition and modernity, creating an unforgettable journey through the heart and soul of Morocco.