巴迪皇宫(El Badi Palace)坐落在摩洛哥马拉喀什的老城南端,由萨阿德王朝苏丹艾哈迈德·曼苏尔(Ahmad al-Mansur)在1578年下令建造。当时正值三王战役大胜之后,这位苏丹动用了撒哈拉黄金贸易换来的巨额财富,甚至用大量黄金和意大利大理石堆砌出这座号称拥有360间宫室的奢华建筑。目前的成人门票价格已经涨到70迪拉姆,虽然内部早已没有了黄金与珠宝的踪迹,但其宏大的空间尺度和红墙上的鹳鸟巢穴依然是马拉喀什最具视觉冲击力的遗迹。
曼苏尔苏丹在1578年开始动工时,野心是建造一座举世无双的无敌之宫。巴迪在阿拉伯语里就是不可思议的意思。为了达成这个目标,他从意大利卡拉拉进口了大理石,从非洲内陆换取黄金。整座宫殿的建设一直持续到1594年前后才初具规模。走进现在的遗址,你依然能从那些厚达两三公里的夯土墙中感受到当年的气势。说真的,如果不是亲眼看到那片长135米、宽110米的中央庭院,你很难想象在16世纪的北非沙漠边缘,竟然有如此巨大的私人空间。
巴迪皇宫的辉煌仅仅维持了不到一百年。17世纪末,阿拉维王朝的苏丹穆莱·伊斯梅尔迁都梅克内斯,他无法容忍前朝留下的华丽印记。从1696年开始,他下令拆毁这座宫殿,将所有值钱的材料,包括大理石柱和精美的木雕,全部运往新首都。这场拆除工作整整持续了12年。现在的游览体验其实更像是一场关于时间的行为艺术,昔日镶嵌绿松石的地板如今满是黄土,但这种极简的荒凉感反而比修葺一新的宫殿更震撼。建议出发前查看官网或当地导览信息,以确认最新的开放区域。
中央庭院的四个下沉式橘园是巴迪皇宫的视觉核心。虽然现在只能看到干涸的水池印记和整齐排列的橘子树,但这里依然是拍照的最佳点。抬头看那些高耸的围墙顶端,你会发现几十个巨大的草堆,那是摩洛哥非常出名的居民:非洲白鹳。每年1月到5月是它们的筑巢期,成群的鹳鸟在废墟之上起降,鸣叫声在空旷的院子里回荡,给死寂的石头带来了不少生气。如果想拍到红墙、橘树与白鹳同框的画面,最好在上午10点前入场,那时的光线能把夯土的橘红色完全激发出来。
很多人逛完院子就走,其实巴迪皇宫最精华的部分藏在地下。通过一处不起眼的入口可以下到当年的仆役通道和地牢,凉爽的地下室与地面的燥热形成鲜明对比。另外,千万别错过那个单独收费(或包含在联票内)的小型展厅,里面存放着来自库图比亚宣礼塔的12世纪木制宣教座(Minbar)。这件文物由一千多块精细雕刻的零部件组成,是马格里布地区木工艺术的巅峰之作。即便你对宗教历史不感兴趣,单看那些几何纹样的手工精度,这70迪拉姆的票价也就值回了一大半。
巴迪皇宫距离著名的百希亚皇宫(Bahia Palace)只有约10分钟的步行距离,非常适合安排在一起游览。不过,穿行在附近的卡斯巴区巷子里时,如果有人热情地告诉你皇宫关门了要带你去皮革厂,直接拒绝就好。皇宫除了重要的节假日或国事活动,通常每天上午9点到下午5点都会准时开放。钱的问题也得算清楚,售票处目前支持现金支付,偶尔能刷卡但网络极度不稳定,建议兜里预留足够的迪拉姆现金,省得白跑一趟。
马拉喀什的夏天真的很毒。由于巴迪皇宫是一个巨大的开阔广场,遮荫处极少,七八月份的中午在里面走简直是受罪。我个人的经验是,即便是在凉爽的11月,也得带上墨镜。满眼的红墙在强光下非常晃眼,走完一圈下来眼部会很疲劳。推荐穿着白色或浅色系的衣服,在红色土墙背景下拍照非常出片,而且比深色衣服更隔热。
目前成人票价为70迪拉姆,约合人民币50元左右。如果想看内部保存的12世纪库图比亚宣教座,通常需要确认为包含展览的套票,建议在购票时直接询问最新价格。
普通游客步行走完中央庭院、地下通道和城墙高台大约需要1到1.5小时。如果你是摄影爱好者或者想仔细研究宣教座的雕刻细节,建议预留2小时以上的时间。
这两个景点的风格完全不同,百希亚皇宫看的是精美的瓷砖装饰和摩尔式花园,而巴迪皇宫看的是宏大的废墟规模。如果是摄影爱好者或喜欢历史厚重感,巴迪皇宫的红墙与鹳鸟会更让你满意。
普通游客使用手机或单反相机进行非商业拍摄是自由的,不需要额外付费。但如果携带大型三脚架或专业录影设备,现场守卫可能会上前询问甚至要求补交拍摄费。
Nathan C. The size of these ruins hint at the splendor of a past age. The many exhibits within and under its walls detail a part of its story. A must see for those who love history. Though to note, a portion of the exhibits are closed for renovations. Also, the entry fee has been raised to 100 Dhs (about 10 euros).
King King I recently had the pleasure of visiting the Badi Palace in Marrakech, and I must say it was a remarkable experience. This historical site offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich history and architectural beauty of Morocco. The moment I entered the Badi Palace, I was immediately struck by its grandeur and scale. The vast courtyard, surrounded by towering walls and ornate arches, exudes a sense of majesty and splendor. It is a true testament to the architectural prowess of the Saadian dynasty. Exploring the palace grounds was like stepping back in time. The intricate tilework, carved wooden ceilings, and beautifully crafted stucco decorations left me in awe of the craftsmanship and attention to detail. Every corner revealed a new architectural marvel, showcasing the unique blend of Moroccan and Islamic design elements. One of the highlights of my visit was the sunken garden, known as the "Agdal." This expansive green space, adorned with citrus trees and fragrant flowers, provided a serene oasis amidst the bustling city. It was a perfect spot to relax and soak in the tranquil ambiance while admiring the surrounding architecture. The panoramic view from the terrace of the Badi Palace was simply breathtaking. It offered a sweeping vista of the city, with the Atlas Mountains serving as a majestic backdrop. I found myself captivated by the beauty of Marrakech and its vibrant colors, which seemed to come alive from this elevated vantage point. The Badi Palace is not only a feast for the eyes but also a place of historical significance. It served as a symbol of power and wealth during the reign of the Saadian dynasty. Exploring the palace's various rooms and chambers, I could almost imagine the grandeur of the court and the stories that unfolded within its walls. The staff at the Badi Palace were friendly and knowledgeable, providing valuable insights into the history and significance of the site. Their passion for preserving and sharing Morocco's cultural heritage was evident, making the visit even more enriching. I highly recommend visiting the Badi Palace to anyone traveling to Marrakech. It is a true gem that showcases the magnificence of Moroccan architecture and offers a glimpse into the country's fascinating history. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking a unique cultural experience, the Badi Palace is a must-see attraction in Marrakech.
Muaz Kabir The Badi Palace in Marrakesh is a captivating journey into Morocco's rich past. This once-magnificent palace, constructed in the late 16th century by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour, stands as a testament to the grandeur of the Saadian dynasty. Despite its current state of ruin, the palace's expansive courtyard, surrounded by high walls and punctuated by reflective pools, evokes the opulence of its original splendor. Visitors can find relief from the summer heat by resting in the shaded areas scattered throughout the grounds. These spots offer a perfect respite, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere without being overwhelmed by the sun like me 😅. The entrance fee of around 100 dirhams per adult is a small price to pay for the experience. The palace also features museum-like exhibits and artifacts that provide deeper insight into its historical significance. These displays enrich the visit, allowing you to imagine the vibrant life that once filled these walls. Overall, the Badi Palace is a remarkable portal to the past, offering both a sense of history and moments of tranquility amid its ancient stones.
Sunny B. Impressive architecture, unfortunately only very few exhibition texts available in English. Entrance fee is a little high for what is offered. Be aware that a large portion of the museum is outdoors without shade so it can get very hot.
Petr Weiss For a ruin, it's a beautiful place. In its original state, it must have been stunning, but unfortunately, that didn't endure. The admission can be paid in cash only. A visit will take you about 30 minutes. The site also features several exhibitions about the history of the palace itself and other landmarks in Morocco. There are toilets available as well. And don't forget to explore the cellars!