穆阿辛音乐博物馆位于马拉喀什麦地那中心地带,由一座保存极其完好的16世纪萨阿德王朝民居改建而成。进入这座博物馆的门票通常为50迪拉姆,如果想参加包含薄荷茶与现场音乐表演的专场,费用则在100迪拉姆左右。这里不仅是展示摩洛哥传统乐器的空间,更是欣赏北非顶级石膏雕刻艺术与彩绘木天花板的私密艺术馆,距离著名的穆阿辛喷泉仅有几步之遥。
这座被称为Douiria的建筑最初是作为私人大宅的客房部设计的。走进博物馆,首先映入眼帘的是典型的摩洛哥庭院布局,这种建筑形式在萨阿德王朝时期达到了巅峰。墙面上布满了错综复杂的雕刻。这里的修缮工作由帕特里克·马纳克主持,他也是马拉喀什摄影之家的创办人。他保留了那些使用了近五个世纪的雪松木梁,上面的手绘颜料依然保留着天然矿物的质感。走进二楼的房间,你会发现窗户的位置设计得极高,这是为了在没有空调的时代保持室内阴凉,同时利用自然光照亮墙上的乐器收藏。
如果你抬头看,会发现这里的彩绘木质天花板是马拉喀什老城内最精美的范本之一。这些几何图形与花卉纹样被称为Zouak,完全由手工绘制而成。相比于那些熙熙攘攘的大型皇宫景点,这里通常非常安静,你可以近距离盯着那些石膏浮雕看上很久,不用担心被旅行团推搡。墙裙处铺设的泽利什瓷砖碎片,拼接出了复杂的数学图案,这些细节反映了苏丹时期摩洛哥贵族的审美品位。这里的空间尺度非常宜人,与其说是在逛博物馆,不如说是在拜访一位品位极佳的马拉喀什老友。
馆内收藏的乐器涵盖了摩洛哥境内主要的音乐流派。你可以看到用动物皮蒙面的传统弹拨乐器,或是来自撒哈拉深处的打击乐器。每件展品旁通常都有多媒体设备,你可以戴上耳机直接听到这种乐器发出的声音。资料库里甚至保存了一些上世纪中叶的珍贵录像,展示了阿特拉斯山脉柏柏尔人在婚礼上歌舞的场景。这些收藏不仅仅是为了陈列,更是为了向访客解释为什么摩洛哥音乐会被称为安达卢西亚文化、非洲文化与阿拉伯文化的融合产物。
如果你的行程安排得开,建议选择在周一或周五的傍晚前往。这两个晚上通常会举办传统音乐演奏会,通常从下午六点左右开始。乐手们盘腿坐在精美的地毯上,演奏着格纳瓦或者马尔洪音乐。这种演出的沉浸感极强,因为观众与乐手的距离不到两米。在演出间隙,工作人员会为你端上一杯热腾腾的薄荷茶。在这样一座有着460多年历史的老宅里,听着这些回荡了几百年的旋律,那种时空交错的感觉非常奇妙。建议至少提前半小时到场,这样可以先逛完展品,再选一个靠枕坐下等待开场。
寻找这家博物馆本身就是一场小探险。它位于穆阿辛区,地址是Derb el Hammam 4号。最简单的定位方法是先找到穆阿辛清真寺,然后寻找那座巨大的公共喷泉。从喷泉旁的小巷子钻进去,看到那扇刻有博物馆名称的木门就到了。马拉喀什老城的巷子非常窄,地图导航有时候会漂移,所以当你看到墙上有指向Museum of Music的小手绘图标时,一定要紧跟路标。如果实在找不到,给巷口的小店老板看博物馆的照片,他们通常会很乐意为你指路。
逛完博物馆通常需要一个半小时到两小时。出门之后,你可以顺便去旁边的穆阿辛喷泉看看,那是16世纪马拉喀什城市供水系统的遗迹。如果觉得肚子饿了,这一带隐藏着不少高水准的私家菜馆。比起贾马夫纳广场那些过度商业化的摊位,穆阿辛区的餐厅往往更安静,装修也更有艺术感。这里的海拔高度和老城其他地方基本持平,但因为巷子深且建筑高,即便是在盛夏,走在巷子里也比在大马路上要凉快不少。建议把这个景点安排在下午三四点,刚好能避开正午最毒辣的阳光。
普通参观门票为50迪拉姆。如果想参加包含茶点和现场传统音乐表演的专场,票价通常为100迪拉姆,建议在门口的售票处提前确认当晚是否有演出。
音乐表演通常在每周一和周五的傍晚举行,正式开场时间一般是18:00。因为座位有限且氛围非常私密,最好在17:30左右到达,以确保能选到舒适的听觉位置。
博物馆所在的建筑建于1562年前后,属于萨阿德王朝时期的私人住宅,是研究当时摩洛哥贵族生活方式的重要标本。这里的石膏雕塑和彩绘天花板在2012年后经过了专业修复,完整再现了16世纪的装饰艺术。
室内陈列区和庭院建筑是可以拍照的,但在现场音乐演出期间,为了尊重表演者和保持现场氛围,通常不建议使用闪光灯或进行长时间录像。拍摄乐器展品时也要注意不要开闪光灯,以免强光损坏古老的颜料。
smith douglas A calm and quiet museum hidden away and well work looking out for the signiposts. Lovely terrace cafe and an opportunity to try playing instruments and learn about different cultures particularly Amazigh
Luca Peranzoni ⁉️ BRIEFLY ⭐⭐⭐⭐ If you want to learn a bit more about Moroccan and African music heritage this is the place. Nice museum in an old house of an artist, it has some nice decorations and a lovely terrace with a cafe. 💵 40 MAD for the museum ⏰ Lenght of visit 30min-1h
Andrada Coos I went to two musical evenings at the Museum of Music (they are only on from October to May I believe) and each one was a wonderful experience of a different type of Morrocan music. I very much liked the story of the discovery and restoration of this beautiful building that once hosted the likes of Led Zeppelin and Che Guevara. The museum itself is very well put together with explanations available in English and French. They also have a rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a drink and even a snack!
Lynn Tan We just returned from the musical evening at this museum that is held 3 nights a week (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) and it was a very lovely way to spend an evening in Marrakech! Before the performance you have a chance to tour the museum (included in the price of your ticket). The small but well curated showcase of African musical instruments and music is highly interesting and educational, and the building itself is magnificently restored. The 40-minute performance is held in a beautiful and intimate salon within the riad, a truly special venue to enjoy such special music (we were treated to Gnawa music on the evening we went mid-April 2024). After the performance everyone is invited to the rooftop terrace for Moroccan tea and cookies - well organized and perfectly timed to enjoy a wonderful sunset view. There is also an option to add on a local dinner which I definitely recommend doing: dinner is likewise served on the rooftop terrace. It is a set menu (no choices but a vegetarian option is offered). The simple but tasty homecooked dinner was a very nice finishing touch. If you enjoy cultural music and are looking for a unique experience in Marrakech away from the touristy crowds, absolutely be sure to put this on your list!
Shailvi Wakhlu One of our most special experiences in Marrakech! This museum is a must visit. They have a really great collection with history, art, and a lot of instruments. We were lucky to attend a concert in the beautiful upstairs room, and it was incredibly peaceful. They also have a great rooftop where they give you tea and sweets after the concert. The owner was super nice, as was the gentleman at the front desk who let us come back the next day since we came right before closing time the first night. Highly recommend for music lovers!