在马拉喀什被老城苏克市场的漫天要价弄得心力交瘁后,不少人会转头冲向穆罕默德五世大道(Avenue Mohammed V)上的传统手工艺品集会(Ensemble Artisanal)。这家由摩洛哥手工艺部监管的中心与喧闹的市集完全是两个世界。这里最大的特点就是明码标价,对于那些不擅长砍价或者讨厌拉客行为的旅行者来说,这地方简直是购物避难所。中心距离库图比亚清真寺步行大约十分钟,即便不买东西,在这里看工匠现场操作也是很有意思的体验。
走进这个建筑就能感受到一种难得的安静。这里的每一件商品都贴着价格标签,价格由政府相关部门审核。虽然这里的标价可能比你在老城市场里砍价三个小时后的底价稍微贵那么百分之十到二十,但省下的时间和精力成本却是实打世的。对于刚到摩洛哥还不了解物价行情的新手,先来这里转一圈能迅速建立起基本的心理价位准线。所有的店铺都接受信用卡支付,这在很多老城深处的小店里是难以想象的,不用担心身上迪拉姆现金不够的尴尬。
这里不仅是商店,更像是一个活态的手工艺展示馆。你能看到老师傅坐在光线柔和的角落里磨皮子、雕刻雪松木或者编织复杂的花纹。这些工匠大多拥有极高的技艺水平,很多是家族传承。在这里拍照通常是被允许的,只要你礼貌地打个招呼。比起在老城里那种偷拍会被要钱的紧张感,这里的工匠心态更平和,他们更愿意向你展示一件精美皮包或一个铜盘是如何从原始材料一点点成型的。
摩洛哥的皮革名声在外,这里的皮衣、皮拖鞋(Babouches)以及旅行包质量相对更有保障。老城里有些皮革制品因为处理工艺问题会带有很重的腥臭味,而这里的皮具处理得比较干净。除了皮革,来自索维拉的图亚木(Thuja)木雕也是这里的招牌。这种木材花纹独特且带有淡淡的清香,被做成精致的饰品盒或棋盘,拿在手里沉甸甸的非常有质感。一个中等大小的精雕木盒价格通常在一百到三百迪拉姆之间,对比做工来看性价比很高。
这里的铜灯和茶壶做工精细,焊接处处理得非常平整,不像地摊货那样粗糙。如果你对巨大的摩洛哥地毯感兴趣,中心二楼通常有专门的地毯展示区。这里的地毯涵盖了柏柏尔人不同部落的风格,从极简的黑白几何图腾到鲜艳的红黄色调都有。销售员会耐心地解释每种花纹背后的寓意,而不会像老城地毯商那样不停地给你灌薄荷茶并施加购买压力。地毯的价格跨度很大,从几百迪拉姆的挂毯到数千迪拉姆的手织羊毛大毯都有明确区间。
马拉喀什的这家中心通常早上九点开始营业,晚上七点左右关门。建议把这里安排在行程的第一天或最后一天。第一天来是为了锚定物价,最后一天来是为了补齐没买够的纪念品。要注意的是,这里在周五的中午可能会因为祷告而短暂闭店一两小时。此外,拉巴特(Rabat)也有一家规模不小的同名中心,位于老城边缘,环境比马拉喀什的还要宽敞一些,如果你行程里包含首都,也可以去那里看看。
中心的位置非常好找,就在去往新城区的主干道边上。逛累了的话,中心内部通常有一个带喷泉的庭院和一家小咖啡馆。这里的薄荷茶价格透明,环境也比广场那些连座位都挤不进去的摊位舒服得多。说真的,在这里坐半小时看喷泉发呆,比在老城里跟人斗智斗勇要惬意。如果你打车过来,直接跟司机说Ensemble Artisanal即可,从贾马夫纳广场打车通常只要二十到三十迪拉姆,不过记得让司机打表或者提前讲好价。
完全不可以还价。所有商品均实行固定价格制度,哪怕你买得多也通常没有折扣,因为这里的定位就是省去砍价流程的国营监管模式。
质量普遍处于中上等水平。政府对入驻的工匠有资质要求,且产品经过初步筛选,很少出现以次充好或人造皮革冒充真皮的情况。
通常为每日09:00至19:00,但在斋月期间或周五祷告时间(约13:00-15:00)可能会临时调整或短暂休息,建议提前通过酒店前台确认最新动态。
部分大型地毯或家具店铺可以协助安排国际物流,但费用较高且需自行承担风险,对于小型纪念品建议还是直接手提或放入行李箱托运。
不需要门票,这里是完全免费向公众开放的。你可以像逛博物馆一样在这里穿梭,即便最后空手而出,店员也不会对你冷嘲热讽。
Sofiyan Md Salauddin I would say one of the best places to shop at Marrakesh. Even if you compare with different souks, the price is reasonable and a lot less haggle. Still you will be able to reduce the price marginally in a few shops. The whole place has a lot of sitting places and is a lot cooler than souks on hot summer days in Marrakesh..
Claudia Ignea A little gem that we discovered by mistake. We ended up coming a second time to do most of our souvenir shopping. There was no hassle and nobody really calling after you. The prices seemed reasonable, most items had a price on them, and you can pay by card as well. Many shops to choose from and a small cafe and benches to sit when you’ve had enough. :) Definitely recommend to at least have a look.
Stephen Molson A very different feeling to the Souks with a lot of the same goods. If you aren't any good at bartering like we were, this is a great place to pick up some souvenirs without the pressure selling.
Daniel Proctor A great place to come if you want to see a vast range of goods from different vendors and companies. The vendors are pleasant and respectful, not following you around, hassling and pressuring for a sale like in the souks. The goods are generally fixed price but there can be some negotiation, particularly when buying a few items together. What I did find completely unbelievable, given that all the shops are cash only, is the complete lack of an ATM or bank facility within the shopping complex. In fact the nearest ATM is about a 5 to 10 minute walk away. That is irritating enough, however it is pouring with rain today and we got absolutely soaked when going off to find a cash machine. This really doesn’t make sense when this is a complex set up to sell products to tourists! Another annoyance was the 5 Dh cost to use the bathroom on the upper floor. A couple of dirhams is fine, but 5 was a bit rude when I have visited the Ensemble Artisanal to spend money. There is however a free toilet if you use the cafe on the ground floor. I was impressed with the cafe, the prices were reasonable and the quality was good. We both had crepes, a vegetarian one and a meat one (which was delicious). Well worth a visit while contemplating what to buy next! Cheaper prices may be reached in the souks but it takes determination, effort and often a sense of humour! I feel I’ve been ripped off by souk traders before, but I don’t feel this way after shopping at Ensemble Artisanal. I would recommend a visit, particularly if haggling isn’t one of your strengths (or like myself, you’re just fed up of it).
Alexandru Obrejan A place infused with local artistry. Here, you can explore a variety of local crafts, witness artisans crafting beautiful carpets, leather bags, jewelry, paintings, and get an idea of the prices, as most are fixed. A fantastic array of souvenirs awaits!