霍尔博克斯岛 - 景点攻略
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霍尔博克斯岛：墨西哥尤卡坦半岛的无车慢岛
从坎昆机场往西开大约两小时，到奇基拉（Chiquilá）港口换乘渡轮，20 分钟后你就站在了霍尔博克斯岛（Isla Holbox）的沙土街道上。这座长 42 公里、平均宽仅 1.5 公里的狭长岛屿，常住人口不过一千出头，岛上没有红绿灯，也没有像样的柏油路，代步靠高尔夫球车、自行车和两条腿。
它属于金塔纳罗奥州，整个岛连同周边水域都被划入尤姆巴拉姆（Yum Balam）生态保护区——墨西哥面积最大的生态保护区之一。白沙来自珊瑚碎屑，踩上去细软但不扬尘；浅滩往外延伸几十米，水还只到膝盖。这些条件让霍尔博克斯岛成了海龟产卵地和 500 多种鸟类的栖息地。
怎么去，以及岛上的交通
从坎昆、图卢姆或梅里达出发
霍尔博克斯岛没有机场，所有游客都得先到奇基拉港。从坎昆机场开车约 1 小时 45 分钟，从图卢姆出发约 2 小时，从梅里达则要 2 小时 45 分钟到 3 小时。ADO 大巴有从坎昆市区到奇基拉的线路，票价约 350 比索，但班次不算密，赶早班渡轮的话建议提前查好时刻表。
自驾的人把车停在奇基拉港的停车场，按天收费，旺季车位紧张。不想折腾的话，私人接送从坎昆机场直达港口，一辆车能坐一到四人。
渡轮与船票
奇基拉到霍尔博克斯的渡轮由两家公司运营，Holbox Express 和 9 Hermanos，单程票价 330 比索左右，航程 20 分钟。发船时间从早上 6 点持续到晚上 8 点，差不多每半小时到一小时一班。风浪大的时候船会颠，容易晕船的人提前半小时吃药。
两人以上也可以在港口包一艘小渔船，价格约 600 比索，时间灵活，适合带着大件行李或不想等班的游客。
岛上没有汽车
霍尔博克斯岛禁止私人汽车上路，交通工具只有高尔夫球车、自行车和三轮车。出租车是加长版高尔夫球车，按区域收费，单程大约 50 到 130 比索。租一辆高尔夫球车自己开，全天（10:00 到 20:00）约 1600 比索，24 小时约 2300 比索，酒店和码头附近都有租车点。骑自行车更便宜，一天 100 到 200 比索，岛上的路基本平坦，从镇中心骑到东端的蚊子角要 40 分钟左右。
上岛要花多少钱
保护区门票
霍尔博克斯岛位于尤姆巴拉姆保护区内，外国游客进入需支付保护区门票，目前标准是每人每天 215 到 225 比索，由 CONANP（墨西哥国家自然保护区委员会）收取。12 岁以下儿童、残疾人和退休人员凭证件免票，学生和教师凭有效证件打五折。这笔费用有时已包含在旅行团报价里，参团前问清楚，避免重复付。
现金比卡重要
岛上只有四台 ATM，集中在中央广场附近（Banorte、HSBC、Banco Azteca、Santander），周末和节假日经常被取空，单次取现上限通常为 3000 到 5000 比索。小餐馆、椰子摊、租车行多数只收现金，刷卡的地方可能加收 3% 到 5% 的手续费。出发前在坎昆或奇基拉取够现金，带一些小面额比索，100 美元大钞在岛上不好花。
到了岛上做什么
蚊子角与浅滩
蚊子角（Punta Mosquito）在岛的最东端，是霍尔博克斯岛最出名的沙洲。从镇上海滩步行过去大约几公里，沿途过了最后一家海滩俱乐部就没有遮阴、没有水、没有厕所。涨潮时沙洲变窄，退潮时露出大片齐踝深的浅水，火烈鸟常在远处觅食。
注意，蚊子角本身属于鸟类保护区，最末端区域禁止进入，游船和皮划艇只能在边界外停靠。跟着船长的指示走，不要越过标记线。清晨去人最少，光线也最适合拍照。
夜间皮划艇看生物荧光
霍尔博克斯岛周边的潟湖里有生物荧光浮游生物，夜间划皮划艇出海，手划过水面会带出一串蓝绿色光点。多数行程持续约 2 小时，包含接送、皮划艇装备和向导讲解，价格在 40 美元上下。荧光强弱受月光影响很大，尽量选新月前后那几天去，越晚越暗，效果越好。这种活动只在正规运营商的带领下进行，不要自己摸黑下水。
三岛游与亚拉豪天然井
经典的“三岛游”从霍尔博克斯码头出发，串起帕西翁岛（Isla Pasión）、鸟岛（Isla Pájaros）和亚拉豪潟湖的天然井（Hoyo Negro Yalahau）。船程约 3 小时，在天然井里可以下水游泳，淡水清凉，周围被红树林包围。参团费用约 28 到 33 美元，亚拉豪天然井另收约 200 比索门票，保护区门票也可能单列，报名时逐项确认。
观鲸鲨（季节性）
每年 5 月到 9 月，鲸鲨会聚集在霍尔博克斯岛以北的海域。观鲸鲨行程从岛上码头出发，全程约 7 小时，包含浮潜装备、午餐和保护区费用，价格在 180 到 200 美元之间。这项活动受天气和海况影响大，出发前一天确认是否成行，容易晕船的人慎重考虑。
什么时候去，住哪里
最佳季节
11 月到次年 4 月是旱季，湿度低、降雨少、海面平静，白天最高气温 26 到 29 摄氏度，晚上降到 19 摄氏度左右，是体感最舒服的时段。12 月底到复活节期间房价最高，提前订。
5 月到 10 月是雨季，气温升到 30 摄氏度以上，午后常有短时强降雨，但通常下完就晴。这段时间住宿价格明显回落，游客也少。6 月到 11 月是飓风季，行程安排留出弹性，买好旅行保险。
住宿与网络
岛上的住宿从青旅床位到海滨精品酒店都有，集中在镇中心步行可达的范围内。越靠近海滩越贵，往镇子内侧走几个街区价格就降下来。电力和网络不算稳定，夏季雷雨时偶尔停电，多数酒店有备用发电机。WiFi 速度一般，适合放下手机，不适合远程办公。
常见问题
霍尔博克斯岛上岛需要买门票吗？
需要。霍尔博克斯岛属于尤姆巴拉姆保护区，外国游客每人每天需支付 215 到 225 比索的保护区门票，由 CONANP 收取。学生和教师凭证件半价，12 岁以下儿童免票。部分旅行团报价已含这笔费用，参团前问清楚。
从坎昆到霍尔博克斯岛要多久？
从坎昆机场开车到奇基拉港约 1 小时 45 分钟，从坎昆市区坐 ADO 大巴约 2.5 小时。到奇基拉后换乘渡轮，20 分钟上岛。渡轮从早上 6 点运营到晚上 8 点，每半小时到一小时一班，单程票价约 330 比索。
岛上可以用信用卡吗？
大部分小餐馆、租车行和街边摊只收现金，岛上四台 ATM 在旺季经常取空。高档酒店和少数餐厅接受信用卡，但可能加收 3% 到 5% 手续费。建议在坎昆或奇基拉提前取够比索，带小面额现金。
蚊子角可以走到最末端吗？
不可以。蚊子角末端是鸟类保护区，禁止进入，游船和皮划艇也只能在边界外停靠。从镇上海滩步行可以走到允许通行的区域，沿途没有遮阴和补给，带足水，穿鞋走，避免踩到珊瑚碎屑。
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霍尔博克斯岛 |用户评价
Apparently we went to a different Holbox than everyone else because we were disappointed. We may have come with too high expectations but the beaches were similar to the one in isla mujeres. There were a lot of algae (which i know depends on winds and seasons), the sand strip to lay down between the ocean and the hundreds of beach clubs is small and overcrowded and the prices are a bit high. You will rarely find a main course for under 15€ (which is a lot comparing to the rest of the country) and even getting there is pricey (15€ one way for a 20 minute ferry is ridiculous). Also there are more tourists than locals here. There’s no real feeling of being in Mexico, no culture. I wouldn’t come back though we had a few nice beach days.
Having seen so many mixed reviews, I have decided that to put in my 2 cents on isla Holbox. Now , I have done practically everything from Bacalar, Tulum, Playa Carmen, isla Cozumel , Cancun and isla mujeres. But once I hit isla Holbox , that was it. And I’ve been coming here 6 years straight. And for good reason. Being in my mid 50s , I’m already tired of the crowds and loud music. Holbox is a very laidback island and tranquil, with only about 3,000 local residents. Getting here is a pain, I know, after a 3 hour flight from nyc then hopping on a transfer to the ferry in chiquila is another 2 hours and a half. But trust me, the ride is well worth it. The island is all sand, bikes, golf carts as taxis and a few trucks for local deliveries. Walking on the island is your best bet. When it rains , it floods, a lot, avoid rainy season, its from September to October. June July and august are too hot. I usually go April/May. I went once in February and the weather was perfect! The Ideal stay is 3 days. If you can do more, even better Beaches are beautiful, most is sargassum free. Mostly no waves on this island. Not to mention the stargazing you can see here. Stars look incredible here on a moonless night. There’s a variety of hotel and restaurants. But stay with the LOCALS for food, they are very friendly, big servings and very affordable prices. Sure , there are nice fancy restaurants, Tulum style, but that’s the prices you’re going to pay for bite size servings. Same goes for the hotels , if it looks too fancy, skip it. Yes, reviews have mentioned dirtiness on the island , and so have I, but I have also seen the locals doing major clean up. Do me a favor, pass on Cancun and isla mujeres and try isla Holbox, if you want true island life and relaxing beaches, you can’t go wrong here. Enjoy.
Can’t say enough good about this island paradise. No big companies, no big hotels, no big party spots just slowed down island hospitality. The most beautiful beaches in Mexico. Great small family run restaurants and businesses. Can’t wait to visit again.
The island has some beautiful parts, I had an amazing two week stay, staying at 3 different hotels (all amazing) but your experience will depend on where you stay, the weather and in which season. I was planning a quiet/chill trip and Holbox was perfect for this. Research is essential, otherwise you’ll likely be disappointed. Positives - Beaut island, small enough to get around by foot, or bike (if roads are not flooded), Casa Mech, Onda Maya and El Nido were great places to stay, beaches towards the East of the island are by far the best, loads of great places to eat, cafes etc, great place for solo travel, as its very safe. When the weather is good, the island is amazing. Negatives - It’s a long way from the nearest airport, so I wouldn’t recommend for a short trip, as the island isnt cheap and a one way taxi from Cancun is near £200 and you’d still need to get the ferry and taxi once on the island. The holbox shuttle is awful (dont do it), I took the ADO bus back to Cancun which was far more pleasant and cheaper. The infrastructure on the island is poor and there is a major sewage issue, the island is very neglected in certain areas, beaches are not maintained on most of the island, so be really careful about where you stay. Water and power outages are common and the only phone network that works is telecel. Flooding is a huge issue and the West of the island is under water, despite there being numerous boutique hotels there. There are no shops and barely any restaurants on the West of the island. Due to a large amount of rainfall I would not suggest visiting the island during rainy season and be aware that hurricanes are common in this time (3 hurricanes hit the island in 2024, that I am aware of, there may have been more)
One of the most beautiful beaches I have ever been to. It's a drive and boat away but well worth it. I may go stay in the near future. It's like no other place. Last of the rustic islands in mexico. You will not be disappointed! So much to do and see!
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