恩奇西森林保护区- 景点攻略
Ntchisi Forest
自然风光
马拉维
5 评论
建议游玩时长:4 小时

马拉维恩奇西森林保护区游玩指南:利隆圭郊外的雨林秘境

恩奇西森林保护区距离马拉维首都利隆圭大约80公里,开车两个多小时就能从喧闹的市区切换到静谧的原始丛林。这片保护区占地约75平方公里,海拔高度在1300米到1700米之间。即便在马拉维最炎热的10月和11月,山上的空气也透着沁人心脾的凉意。由于森林植被茂密,这里成了马拉维避暑和洗肺的首选地,不少长居利隆圭的人会趁着周末来这里躲避燥热。

地理位置与这片森林的独特之处

距离首都两小时车程的清凉高地

从利隆圭出发往北走,路况在大部分时间里还算平顺。说到交通,很多自驾者会低估最后那段进山的土路,虽然距离不长,但路面坑洼不少,车速完全提不起来。进入保护区边界后,气温会明显下降个三五度。这种气候差异造就了完全不同于马拉维湖边的生态环境,放眼望去不再是干巴巴的稀树草原,而是厚实的深绿色森林覆盖着连绵的山丘。

马拉维最后的原始雨林残存地

这片森林最稀罕的地方,在于它是马拉维极少数还保存着完整热带雨林植被的区域。这里没有大片修剪整齐的草坪,只有野性十足的参天大树,比如巨大的绞杀榕。在1920年代被划定为保护区之前,这里曾是当地部落的避难所。现在的恩奇西不仅是一片林地,更像是一座自然博物馆,不仅保留了古老的原始林,还混杂着蒙塔内森林和草原景观。

深度体验:徒步、观鸟与山顶俯瞰

登上1700米的恩奇西山顶

体力好的建议去爬一下恩奇西山。山顶海拔1700米左右,坡度不算太离谱,普通体能的人两三个小时就能完成登顶。站在山头可以俯瞰周边的村庄和远处的东非大裂谷景观。说真的,那种一览众山小的开阔感,会让你觉得那点汗没白流。下山时走另一条小路,还能穿过一片挂满苔藓的林区,光影洒下来非常有电影质感。

偶遇萨曼格猴与彩色巨嘴鸟

观鸟爱好者得提前准备好长焦镜头,这儿记录在册的鸟类超过200种。清晨六点半出发时冷到需要抱着热水杯,但那是森林最热闹的时候,各种鸟叫声多得像在开交响乐。除了鸟,这里还生活着罕见的萨曼格猴。这种猴子比常见的狒狒害羞得多,尾巴长长的,毛色在阳光下泛着银光。如果你在林子里听到窸窸窣窣的动静,别急着走,停下来等个几分钟,往往能看到它们在树冠间跳跃。

实用信息:住在森林里的老房子

始于1914年的恩奇西森林小屋

住在保护区里,恩奇西森林小屋几乎是唯一的正经选择。这栋房子大有来头,最早是1914年建的殖民地时期警察局,后来改成了护林站。现在的房间保留了那种老派的厚砖墙,晚上甚至得生壁炉取暖。这里的饭菜大多是用自家菜园里的蔬菜做的,新鲜得能吃出泥土的气息。如果你预算有限,小屋也提供露营地,只要交大约10美金左右的场地费就能在星空下扎营。

最佳出行季节与路况提醒

钱的问题也得算清楚,进入森林通常由住宿方代收一笔每人每天约10至20美金的森林养护费,建议出发前查看官网或询问旅馆最新价格。旱季的5月到10月是徒步的黄金期,路面干爽,蚊虫也少。雨季的12月到次年4月虽然景色更绿,但土路会变得非常泥泞。如果不带四驱车,雨季进山确实有点悬,很可能半路陷进泥里尴尬地等救援。

常见问题

恩奇西森林保护区需要提前预约门票吗?

这里不设正式的售票大门,通常在入住恩奇西森林小屋时统一缴纳森林养护费。如果是散客单日进山徒步,建议提前联系保护区管理人员或通过当地向导缴纳大约15美金的费用。

去那里玩需要准备什么样的装备?

保暖衣物是必须的,即便夏天这里晚上也只有十几度。徒步鞋最好要有防滑纹路,因为林间小路落叶很多且容易打滑。另外建议带上高浓度的防蚊液,虽然海拔高,但林子里的虫子依然很凶猛。

从利隆圭过去租什么车比较稳妥?

最好租一辆高底盘的越野车,比如丰田霸道或类似的四驱车型。虽然大部分路段是柏油路,但最后进入森林的20公里碎石路对底盘高度有硬性要求,普通轿车极易刮底。

恩奇西森林保护区 用户评价

  • reviews-avatar Quentin Burgart
    2
    评论于 2024-08-13

    The lodge is nice, with a great terrace, garden and pool. However our experience was far below our expectations in a number of ways (detailed below) and we would NOT RECOMMEND to any friend to stay there. First of all, know that everything is overpriced here: - 60$ per night to sleep in a tent with no electricity, shared bathroom at 100m which are extremely basic, and on top of that they want to charge you to use the WiFi. At this price in Malawi, it is really not at the level you can expect. - Then the food. It is good, with nice taste. The issue for us here was the dinner, and the way you are tricked into paying a crazy price : you are asked at what time you will be joining (not really leaving the door open to joining or not), without mentioning any price. It cannot be found anywhere: not on the menu, not on the dashboard with the planned meal, not on the website. We asked for a menu to get clarity and they just said it was one set diner for all - right. This aspect was avoided to a point where we thought it should be a regular price and there is no need to discuss. What was our surprise at checkout when we discovered we were charged at least double what would be charged elsewhere for the same setting and quality. - on top of that they make an additional 10% on top of the official rate converting USD to MWK. 10% on your total bill, not a bad business. Apart from these price-related issues, several other things need improving: - there was not enough seats for everyone at dinner and breakfast. Some had to wait for others to finish their dinner, and we had to eat our breakfast outside on a coffee table. - There were 9 toddlers in the lodge, which is not convenient for other guest expecting a relaxing time, with space and quietness. You could imagine the sound level at dinner, which totally killed the romantic atmosphere of your Saturday night dinner… again not what you would expect when you pay so much. - There are not enough seats at the pool for everyone, we could not go the first afternoon. - The dinner is advertised as a three course dinner: well, a small soup and a scoop of ice cream does not transform a dish in a three course dinner (event if tasty). Again, not at that price. Last but not least, the forest is small, partially burnt, and has no real interest (though the sunset point is nice). It is really not worth the several hours on the bad dirt road to get there. So you are just coming for the lodge and all its shortcomings I just listed. Hopefully some work will be done to offer a more pleasant experience to future travellers.

  • reviews-avatar Sibarita DD
    5
    评论于 2024-07-21

    Absolutely loved the place and definitely worth the stop on your way South towards the capital, or for a weekend getaway when you live in Lilongwe. Everything was perfect, the food, the service,.. It can get pretty chilly in the evenings at dinner (we went in June) so bring warm clothes, even if there's a fireplace.

  • reviews-avatar Tim Brammer
    5
    评论于 2024-04-19

    An excellent place to visit on weekends if you’re staying in Lilongwe! Roads are great if it’s not pouring with rain. The food is amazing and accommodation to match. Do yourself a favor and go for a hike into the Afromontane rainforest. You won’t regret it!

  • reviews-avatar Eric Salima
    5
    评论于 2024-02-22

    A walk through the rain forest makes you feel like you are passing through the African amazon jungle. Quite a beautiful place to spend your quiet time and experience the beauty of nature

  • reviews-avatar Wendy Wongani Hara
    5
    评论于 2022-12-08

    Absolutely beautiful space, loved the hiking spots and swimming pool. The staff are friendly, and the food was delicious. If you plan on taking the trip to Ntchisi, I would recommend using a big car as the roads are mostly dusty over mountainous terrain.

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