马杰特野生动物保护区(Majete Wildlife Reserve)在马拉维的名气相当大。很多人去马拉维是为了那片湛蓝的湖泊,但如果想在野外亲眼看到狮子、大象或者犀牛,这里几乎是唯一的首选。马杰特位于南部的希尔河谷(Lower Shire Valley),占地面积大约698平方公里。这里最让旅行者津津乐道的不只是动物数量,还有它起死回生的经历。二十多年前这里因为盗猎几乎成了荒地,直到2003年非洲公园机构(African Parks)介入管理,分批引进了超过12000头动物,才让这片土地重新焕发生机。现在的马杰特是马拉维唯一一处凑齐了非洲五霸的保护区,管理水平在整个非洲东南部都排得上号。
说到在马拉维看野生动物,马杰特是避不开的名字。这里是该国目前唯一能在一个保护区内同时看到狮子、豹子、大象、水牛和黑犀牛的地方。这种多样性得益于长达二十年的迁徙计划,不仅是大型猛兽,连黑马羚、扭角林羚这些在其他地方难得一见的草食动物,现在在马杰特的种群规模也非常稳定。走进大门你会发现这里的植被非常茂密,不仅有典型的非洲稀树草原,还有大片的河岸森林和米ombo林地,给不同习性的动物提供了藏身之处。
马杰特的成功离不开背后严密的保护机制。非洲公园机构在这里投入了大量的物力进行反盗猎巡逻,甚至还有专门的飞机进行空中监测。这里不仅仅是一个围起来的动物园,它与周围社区的互动很深。很多当地村民在保护区里担任向导或护林员,这种模式让马杰特在2003年以后就几乎没有发生过严重的大规模盗猎事件。如果你对生态保护背后的故事感兴趣,在游客中心能看到很多关于这二十年重建过程的珍贵照片和数据,那种从零到盛景的震撼感非常有冲击力。
马杰特最特别的玩法其实是在希尔河(Shire River)上坐船游览。相比于颠簸的驱车游猎,坐在平稳的小船上顺流而下要惬意得多。这种游船项目通常在下午三四点出发,正好能赶上动物出没喝水的高峰期。河岸边常年能看到密密麻麻的河马和巨型尼罗鳄,运气好的话还能看到大象群来到岸边洗澡喷水。当太阳落到地平线以下,河水被染成橘红色,手里拿一瓶当地著名的嘉士伯啤酒,这种非洲式的浪漫真的很难在其他地方复制。建议出发前提前和保护区或酒店预约,因为每条船的荷载人数有限。
如果你是为了看猛兽,那一定要选对时间。每年的5月到10月是马拉维的旱季,随着降雨减少,丛林里的植被会变得稀疏,动物们不得不向固定的水源地聚集。这时候开车在保护区里转悠,发现狮子或黑犀牛的概率会大大提升。马杰特的路况在旱季表现不错,虽然有些河床位置会有厚厚的浮土,但整体通行效率很高。清晨六点半出发时气温会很低,风吹在脸上甚至有些刺骨,一定要带上一件挡风的外套。等到上午十点阳光变得毒辣,动物们就开始躲进树荫纳凉,这时候就该回营地休息了。
马杰特距离马拉维第二大城市布兰太尔(Blantyre)大约65公里。虽然距离看起来不远,但因为山路崎岖且路况复杂,单程通常需要1.5到2小时。从布兰太尔出发,经过奇克瓦瓦(Chikwawa)镇后,路面会变得比较颠簸。说真的,虽然旱季时一些二驱的小型轿车也能勉强开到门口,但为了安全和能进入保护区内部更深的游览路径,还是强烈建议租一辆高底盘的四驱车。如果你不想自己操心驾驶问题,布兰太尔很多旅行社都提供马杰特一日游的包车服务,价格通常包含向导和入园费。
希尔河谷的海拔较低,气候比布兰太尔要湿热得多。尤其是在10月和11月,气温经常会飙升到40摄氏度以上,那种燥热感是非常考验体力的。防晒霜、宽檐帽和充足的饮用水是绝对的刚需。另外,由于这里属于疟疾高发区,除了常备的驱蚊液,建议在出发前咨询医生是否需要服用预防药物。进入保护区后没有超市或商店,除了在指定的营地用餐,建议车里常备一些高热量的零食,以防在长达数小时的游猎过程中体力不支。至于门票,目前国际访客的成人价格大约在30美元左右,最好准备好美元现金或者当地货币克瓦查,刷卡系统偶尔会因为信号问题不稳定。
目前马杰特的国际成年访客入园费用大约为每人每天30美元,车辆入园费用根据车型大小额外收取。建议携带适量现金,因为保护区大门处的POS机有时会因为卫星信号不稳定而无法使用。具体费用建议在出发前通过非洲公园官网或当地向导确认最新标准。
两地距离约65公里,但因为要翻越海拔落差较大的山坡且经过繁忙的集镇,正常驾驶需要1.5到2小时。去往保护区的最后一段路虽然有铺装,但路面坑洼较多,如果不熟悉路况或者驾驶经验不足,尽量避免在天黑后赶路。
虽然你可以选择自驾游览(Self-drive),但雇佣一名保护区官方向导的费用并不高,通常在20到40美元之间。专业向导拥有无线电对讲机,能实时掌握狮子或犀牛的最新坐标,并且他们对足迹和粪便的辨识能力能让你看到很多自驾时会忽略的细节。
每年的6月到9月是最佳游览时间,此时气候凉爽干燥,蚊虫相对较少且动物聚集在水源地附近,非常容易观测。11月到次年3月是雨季,虽然植被翠绿且有大量候鸟,但部分偏远道路会变得泥泞湿滑,有些低洼地带甚至会因希尔河水位上涨而封闭。
Edwin Mhone Amazing experience and personnel were all very informed and educational one of the best way of learning and exploring wildlife in Malawi.
David Martynski We stayed just one night here but everything was great. Contrary to other posts, the food and service was superb. Unfortunately it was cold and wet for our stay (unusual weather) so we didn’t get to see a huge variety of wildlife. We still managed to be find elephant, several lions, warthogs, zebra, many types of deer and quite a few birds. I would recommend Majete but stay at least two nights!
Kevin One of the best safari parks I've ever been to! Definitely worth every penny. The Thawale lodge had a great central view where we had food and drinks, the tents (pretty much apartments) faced the watering hole with a continuous stream of animals walking by. Great bathroom with an amazing view on the watering hole as well. The price included a three course meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food was very well prepared and tasted top notch.The staff was super kind and welcoming. Talked to the manager for a while and loved his passion for wildlife preservation. The amount of elephants we've seen here were too many to count. Safaris were well organized with very knowledgeable and accommodating staff.
Indira Issaka Mejete is a great place. We were positively suprised by our experience. We had heard a lot about Liwonde NP, but less about Mejete. We saw many animals. Not the big 5, but a lot of elephants. Our guide was great. We stayed 1 night at Thawale Lodges. This place is great and the staff is professionnal. Food was delicious and very good quality. A great chef. The lodge is great and a lot of animals come to drink water (including elephants). We stayed in a ‘’luxuary tent’’ with AC, shower and hot water. There is also a natural pool. We booked with a company called the Travel Centre in Blantyre. The Amaryllis hotel provided their contact information. Transportation, food and and accommodation were included. It is also possible to book on the Mejete reserve website directly. It is also possible to go with your own car and just spend the day there. I highly recommend for a budget friendly safari. Cheaper than most safari in Kenya and Tanzania. Also less crowded. Thank you !
Kathy Pritchard-Jones Fantastic overnight camping experience with Henry as our guide. We saw almost all that the park has to offer in just two drives - lions, a leopard, big elephant, zillions of beautiful antelope species, water buffalo, hippos and crocs and, the final surprise, a young male giraffe munching the tree tops, couldn’t have been better, thank you Henry