位于卢克索北部的阿蒙-拉神庙区(Precinct of Amun-Re)是卡纳克神庙建筑群中面积最大、保存最完整的核心区域。整座神庙区占地大约25万平方米,这个数字意味着它可以装下好几个中型体育场。从公元前2000年左右的中王国时期开始,直到托勒密王朝,近30位法老在长达1500年的时间里不断在这里加建、改建,最终形成了这种层层嵌套、规模宏大的建筑奇观。目前成人门票价格大约为600埃及镑,建议出发前通过埃及旅游和文物部官网核实最新定价,因为近年来门票涨幅比较频繁。
穿过第一道塔门后,最让人震撼的不是平坦的庭院,而是紧随其后的多柱厅(Great Hypostyle Hall)。这片空间面积约5000平方米,由134根巨大的石柱支撑。中间两排的12根石柱高度超过21米,直径大约3.6米,柱顶的周长足以并排站立几十个人。站在这些石柱下面,即便不抬头看那些残留的彩色浮雕,也能感受到一种来自几千年前的威压。说真的,当清晨的第一缕阳光从石柱缝隙斜射进来时,那些细小的尘埃在光影里晃动,那种尺度感会让任何现代建筑都显得苍白无力。很多人只顾着抬头看柱头,其实柱基部分刻满了当时的铭文,记录了塞提一世(Seti I)和拉美西斯二世(Ramesses II)对这座建筑的贡献。
继续向深处走,会看到两座至今依然屹立的方尖碑。其中较高的一座属于女法老哈特谢普苏特(Hatshepsut),高度接近28.5米,重约323吨,由一整块红花岗岩雕刻而成。这根石柱般的尖碑当年是如何从阿斯旺采石场运抵此处并立起来的,至今仍是建筑史上的谜团。有趣的是,到了图特摩斯三世(Thutmose III)统治时期,这位法老为了抹除前任的影响,并没有直接推倒这座方尖碑,而是修筑了一道高墙将其围挡起来。这种奇特的掩盖方式反而保护了方尖碑,使其上面的象形文字浮雕免受风化,至今依然清晰可辨。
大多数游客在看完大柱厅后会直接转向方尖碑,却忽略了位于北侧的露天博物馆(Open Air Museum)。进入这里通常需要额外支付一小笔费用,但绝对物有所值。这里存放着辛努塞尔特一世(Senusret I)时期精美绝伦的白色圣堂(White Chapel)。这座建筑由石灰岩建成,浮雕线条极其细腻,描述了阿蒙神与法老的互动。如果你对古埃及艺术的精细度有追求,这里的浮雕质量远超主殿那些风化严重的墙面。这里相对安静,没有大柱厅那种接踵而至的旅游团,适合一个人安静地看那些刻在石头里的众神故事。
神庙区的南侧有一片人造湖泊,这就是圣湖。在古代,祭司们每天清晨都要在湖水中沐浴净身,以进行神圣的祭祀仪式。圣湖东南角矗立着一座巨大的红色花岗岩圣甲虫石像,这是阿蒙霍特普三世(Amenhotep III)时期留下的。当地有个流传很久的说法,绕着这座石像逆时针走七圈会带来好运。虽说这更像是导游为了活跃气氛编出来的段子,但你会看到成群的游客在那里绕圈,场面有些滑稽但也很有生活气息。圣湖的水源来自尼罗河,即便在旱季也从未干涸,湖边甚至还有当年饲养神圣水禽的遗迹。
阿蒙-拉神庙区位于卢克索市中心以北约3公里处。最省力的方式是打车或者使用Uber,单程费用通常在几十埃及镑。如果想省钱,卢克索街头的蓝色小巴也能到,只要几块钱,但需要自己找准下车点。建议早上6点一开门就准时入场,这时候大规模的邮轮团和从红海赫尔格达(Hurghada)赶来的大巴团还没到。清晨六点半神庙里人影稀疏,温度也还没到正午那种能把人晒化的40摄氏度。到了上午10点左右,神庙里会突然涌入上千人,那时候想拍一张没有路人甲的石柱照片几乎是不可能的任务。
想要拍出大柱厅的纵深感,最好选择侧面的长廊而非主轴线。侧廊的石柱受光均匀,能够清晰呈现出柱身表面的象形文字。如果是下午三四点左右进入,太阳高度降低,光线会从神庙的高侧窗(Clerestory windows)射入,那种神圣感非常有穿透力。千万别忘了带广角镜头,在如此局促的石柱森林里,手机的标准焦段很难拍全一整根石柱。另外,神庙内部是不允许使用三脚架的,除非你购买了专门的商业拍摄许可。如果遇到穿着传统长袍的守卫热情地带你去所谓的神秘机位拍照,通常在拍完后对方会索要几十埃镑的小费,不需要的话礼貌拒绝即可。
建议至少预留3到4个小时。仅仅走完核心的中轴线和多柱厅就需要1.5小时,如果你还打算去露天博物馆、圣湖以及周边的几座塔门拍照,半天时间是最基本的配置。考虑到卢克索中午的高温,早上6点进入,10点左右撤退是最舒服的节奏。
卡纳克神庙是一个庞大的综合建筑群,包含四个主要部分。阿蒙-拉神庙区是其中规模最大、对公众开放最核心的部分,绝大多数游客口中的卡纳克神庙,指的就是阿蒙-拉神庙区。另外三个区域分别是穆特神庙区、蒙图神庙区和现存遗迹较少的阿蒙霍特普四世神庙,部分区域目前并未全面开放。
卡纳克神庙的声光秀(Sound and Light Show)门票是单独出售的,票价大约在600埃及镑左右。虽然灯光打在古老石柱上的视觉效果不错,但解说词略显陈旧且语速较慢。如果你已经在白天深度游览过,晚上可能会觉得性价比不高。不过,夜晚在星空下穿梭于大柱厅的体验确实与白天完全不同,适合喜欢浪漫氛围的游客。
普通手机和不带脚架的单反相机拍照是免费的,不需要额外购买摄影票。但如果你打算使用三脚架或者进行商业性质的拍摄,必须在售票处额外支付数千埃镑的摄影费。严禁使用无人机,埃及对空域管理极其严格,带入景区可能会导致设备被没收甚至罚款。
Ahmed Almuharaq The Precinct of Amun-Re, also known as the Temple of Amun, is the largest and most important religious precinct in the Karnak Temple Complex, located in Luxor, Egypt. Dedicated primarily to the god Amun-Re, the supreme deity of ancient Egypt, this vast complex served as the focal point of religious worship and political power during the New Kingdom period. Covering an area of approximately 250 acres, the Precinct of Amun-Re contains numerous temples, chapels, pylons, obelisks, and other structures built over several centuries by various pharaohs, including Seti I, Ramesses II, and Ramesses III. The most iconic feature of the precinct is the Great Hypostyle Hall, a massive hall with 134 towering columns adorned with intricate carvings and hieroglyphs. Within the precinct, priests conducted elaborate rituals, festivals, and ceremonies to honor Amun-Re and ensure the prosperity and stability of Egypt. The precinct also served as a center of political and economic activity, with the pharaohs using it to assert their authority and legitimacy. Today, the Precinct of Amun-Re stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most visited archaeological sites in Egypt, attracting tourists, scholars, and enthusiasts from around the world. Its monumental architecture, religious significance, and historical importance continue to inspire awe and fascination, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of ancient Egypt.
Akshaya Bhagavathula I visited the Precinct of Amun-Re as part of a guided tour of the Karnak Temple Complex. I was amazed by the size and beauty of the precinct, which is full of ancient monuments and artworks. The highlight for me was the Hypostyle Hall, which is simply breathtaking. The columns are so huge and majestic, and the carvings are so detailed and colorful. I felt like I was walking in a forest of stone. The guide explained the history and meaning of the hall, and I learned a lot about the ancient Egyptian religion and culture. I also enjoyed seeing the obelisk of Hatshepsut, the bark shrines, the sacred lake, and the statues of the pharaohs and the gods. The precinct is very well preserved and maintained, and there are signs and plaques that provide information and context. I would highly recommend visiting the Precinct of Amun-Re to anyone who is interested in ancient Egypt or who wants to experience a wonder of the world. It is truly a magnificent place that deserves respect and admiration.
Developer G Rohit This temple is perhaps the most majestic and fantastic among all the temples in Karnak. It is amazing how large the columns are and how complex the design is. Such a structure could not be constructed without the use of complex technical devices, In ancient times as well. The Hypostyle Hall is one of the landmarks of the Karnak Temple Complex. It is awesome in it's grandeur! It was supposed to have been planned by Pharaoh Ramses1 and constructed by Seti1 and Ramses2. It is gigantic and there are 134 pillars, each carved in intricate detail. The paintings on the inner walls were built for priests and members of the Royal Family and have religious significance. While the outer walls are adorned with scenes of battle, where the Pharaoh is depicted as being powerful and strong as he wins over his enemies.
Teresa Timms Did a nile cruise, would reccomend doing a nile cruise whilst in Egypt. Lovely views of the area. Wear trainers and take bottled water with you. Lots of river side restaurants you can stop at
Antonio Martín Mendieta Beautiful Karnak temple (120 Egyptian pounds entrance fee). I would recommend the visit during the day. But I don't recommend the sound and light show. A bit boring and maybe the only part worth it is at the end when you see the whole temple reflecting in the water. The show at night costs 200 Egyptian pounds (apparently was cheaper before).