奈菲尔塔利墓(QV66)位于卢克索西岸的王后谷,是古埃及文明中艺术造诣最高、保存最完好的陵墓之一。这座墓葬由于其内部壁画色彩极其鲜艳且工艺精湛,在考古界被公认为古埃及的西斯廷教堂。墓主人奈菲尔塔利是法老拉美西斯二世最宠爱的王后,其陵墓在1904年由意大利考古学家夏帕雷里发现。墓室内大约520平方米的区域布满了精美的壁画,虽然历经三千年风霜,但其色彩依旧保持着如刚完工般的透亮感。建议出发前查看官网最新信息,因为墓穴有时会因保护目的临时关闭修复。
奈菲尔塔利这个名字在古埃及语中意为美丽的伴侣。她是拉美西斯二世八位正妻中的首位,在政治和宗教事务中拥有极高的话语权。拉美西斯二世对她的宠爱不仅体现在阿布辛贝的小神庙上,更体现在这座耗资巨大的QV66墓穴中。在墓穴壁画中,你会发现她被描绘得异常高大且优雅,甚至在世时就被赋予了神性。陵墓墙壁上的铭文称其为太阳为之发光的人,这种极高评价在古埃及王后中实属罕见。如果你对这段旷世之恋感兴趣,站在墓室中央感受那份穿越千年的精致是无可替代的体验。
这里的壁画并不是直接画在石壁上的,而是先在石灰岩墙面涂上一层薄薄的泥膏抹平,再进行彩绘。工匠使用了大量的天然矿物颜料,如蓝铜矿、赤铁矿等,这使得壁画在微光下依然能呈现出宝石般的质感。壁画内容主要围绕着亡灵书展开,详细记录了奈菲尔塔利在阴间接受神灵审判并最终通往永生的全过程。每一个细节包括王后所穿的透明褶皱长袍、精细的假发纹理,以及她手中紧握的塞尼特棋盘,都展现了第十九王朝时期极高的艺术水准。
参观奈菲尔塔利墓是一项奢侈的行程,因为它的门票价格远高于其他景点。目前针对外国游客的专项门票约为2000埃及镑,这还不包括王后谷约180至220埃及镑的景区大门票。如果你计划在卢克索停留五天以上,并且要深度游览各大墓穴,购买250美元的卢克索Pass(Luxor Pass Premium版)可能更划算,因为该版本包含了奈菲尔塔利墓和塞提一世墓的门票。需要注意的是,由于墓穴内空气湿度对壁画有致命伤害,墓穴每天限制进入人数,且自2024年3月起经历过多次临时关闭,出发前务必向当地导游或通过社交媒体确认最新的开放状态。
王后谷(Valley of the Queens)距离帝王谷约10分钟车程,离哈布城则更近。最方便的方式是在卢克索东岸码头搭乘5埃及镑的公共渡轮横渡尼罗河,到达西岸后租用出租车或包车前往。包车一整天的费用通常在400至600埃及镑之间。如果你是一个人旅行,也可以尝试骑自行车前往,但西岸的起伏地形和烈日对体力是极大的考验。由于该地区早晚温差大,清晨六点半出发时可能冷到需要披件外套,而到了中午则会迅速升温至40摄氏度左右,合理的行程规划能让你避开最毒辣的阳光。
当你沿着狭窄的石阶走下墓穴,第一个看到的便是王后在众神引导下进入冥界的画面。最令人震撼的区域是前厅和通往棺木室的走廊。你可以特别留意女神玛阿特展开双翼的形象,她象征着真理与正义,羽毛的每一个线条都清晰可见。此外,王后与赫里谢夫神互动的场景中,神灵手中的权杖和王后精致的黄金头饰展示了极高的写实技巧。由于墓室内部每人仅限停留10到15分钟,建议进入后先直奔最里端的黄金屋,然后再回头细看入口处的细节,这样能确保你不错过最核心的精华部分。
关于拍照的规定在埃及经常变动。目前的普遍情况是,即便你购买了景区的摄影票,在奈菲尔塔利墓内部通常也只允许手机拍摄,严禁使用闪光灯和三脚架。墓室里的看守员有时会表现得非常热情,主动帮你指点拍摄角度或者递给你一些拍摄道具,这种情况下通常需要准备20到50埃及镑的小费作为报酬。如果你不想被打扰,礼貌地摇头并保持安静即可。另外,墓室内空间相对狭窄且通风极差,体感非常闷热,建议穿透气的棉质衣物并随身携带一瓶水,在进入墓穴前饮用以防脱水。
目前该墓穴处于不稳定开放状态,曾于2024年初因保护性修复关闭。建议在卢克索当地通过官方售票窗口确认,或者询问持证导游,门票价格目前维持在2000埃及镑的高位。
由于景区严格限制人数以控制墓内湿度,每位游客的官方参观时间被限制在10至15分钟。如果加上在王后谷大门排队和步行到墓口的时间,总预留时间大约在1小时左右。
不包含,王后谷的基础门票通常只涵盖除QV66以外的三个普通墓穴。奈菲尔塔利墓需要单独购买那张2000埃及镑的专项门票,且该票通常只能在特定的售票点购买。
内部禁止使用专业相机和闪光灯,但目前手机拍照通常是允许的。有时政策会收紧要求扫码支付手机拍照费,建议在入口处看清标识或咨询检票人员,避免引起不必要的纠纷。
Josue Polanco **The most guarded and protected tomb in all of Egypt** Probably one of the most detailed and more most colorful Rich tombs in all of Egypt. It was very well preserved. You can tell how much she was loved by the Pharaoh. It's going to cost you in addition ticket. Totally worth it. **Also don't be an idiot and do yourself a favor and get a tour guide he/she will explain everything you're looking at before hand. It makes the experience that much better to know what you're staring at rather than just guessing** **You only get 10 mins to be inside this tomb, plus they only allow 300 visitors per/day. Get there early**
Sander van Vliet The tomb of Nefertari, with an entrance fee of 2000 LE and 10 minutes of entrance only. If you choose the right time when the tomb is empty you'll figure out that 10 minutes is doable. The paintings, engravings and structure inside the tomb is still very beautiful and the colours are rich. Compared to other tombs, none of the walls are protected by glass sheets (gladly, because they are always dirty!). The most impressive parts are the first room at the right side after entry and the walls on the main stairs. I figured out that the type of paintings are different from other tombs, so that makes it interesting to see too. Verdict: lots of money for a small but beautiful tomb. If you don't want to spend the money, visit Deir el-Medina, those tombs are beautiful too!
Julie Warrenfeltz The most beautiful and colorful of all the Tombs we toured and definitely worth the price of admission. Breathtaking. DO NOT MISS THIS!!!
John Gorgeous place, probably the nicest tomb in Luxor. The entrance fee is quite steep compared to other tickets but it is absolutely worth it. The colors are so vibrant, the tomb looks like it was painted yesterday. Do not miss it!
Gerben Voorsluijs This tomb is the reason to visit the valley of the Queens and one of the most impressive and beautiful tombs in all of Egypt. It is large with beautiful hieroglyphs and vivid colors. It costs around 50 euros or dollars on top of the valleys entrance fee but it is worth it. It is simply amazing and the max 10 minutes you are allowed inside is to short.