卢克索博物馆(Luxor Museum)坐落在尼罗河东岸的康尼什大道上,从1975年落成开放至今,一直是埃及布展水准最高的场馆之一。它不像开罗埃及博物馆那样像个塞满古董的拥挤仓库,这里两千多件藏品每一件都拥有独立的灯光和宽敞的展示空间。比起追求数量的堆砌,这座博物馆更讲究文物背后的故事与美感,是那些想在安静氛围中细细品味法老文明细节的游客的首选。目前成年外国游客门票价格约为 500 埃镑,建议在参观完卡纳克神庙或卢克索神庙后,趁着傍晚微风徐徐时步行前往。
走进馆内最直观的感受就是高级感。这里是由建筑师马哈茂德·哈基姆(Mahmud El-Hakim)设计的,整体建筑风格极简,内部没有窗户,全靠精准的聚光灯照射在石雕和黄金饰品上。这种光影对比让石碑上的象形文字和神像的肌肉线条变得异常清晰,非常适合近距离观察古埃及工匠的手艺。比起在开罗那种汗流浃背、人声鼎沸的参观体验,卢克索博物馆的冷气通常很足,人流量也只有开罗的几分之一,这种静谧感能让你真正静下心来和三千年前的历史对视。
卢克索的白天往往被烈日占据,而这座博物馆最聪明的地方在于它设有夜场。下午一点到五点之间通常会闭馆休息,下午五点重新开门直到晚上九点。这个时间点非常有讲究,当你逛完西岸的帝王谷或者暴晒了一整天之后,晚饭前躲进这里看两个小时展,出来刚好能欣赏尼罗河的落日和对岸西山的剪影。那种在微凉的晚风中散步去博物馆的感觉,是其他埃及城市给不了的惬意。
在2004年扩建的荣誉厅里,安放着两具极为重要的法老木乃伊。其中一位是驱逐了喜克索斯人、开启新王国时期的雅赫摩斯一世(Ahmose I)。这两具木乃伊没有像文明博物馆那样层层封锁,而是以一种非常庄严且近距离的方式呈现。你能清晰地看到木乃伊指甲的形状和包裹亚麻布的纹理。值得一说的是,拉美西斯一世(Ramesses I)的遗骸曾流落美国多年,直到2003年才正式回归埃及并最终安放在这里,这背后的回归之路本身就是一段传奇。
1989年考古学家在卡纳克神庙的一个地下室里挖出了二十多尊精美绝伦的雕像,它们现在大多收藏在卢克索博物馆的一楼。其中最抓眼球的是阿蒙霍特普三世(Amenhotep III)的石英岩雕像,由于一直埋在地下,它受到的风化极小,表面光滑得像镜面一样。站在雕像侧面观察,法老那典型的带有女性柔美特征的五官被灯光勾勒得栩栩如生。这些雕像被发现时几乎完好无损,是研究第十八王朝艺术巅峰的最佳样本。
博物馆二楼有一堵巨大的墙,是用数百块绘有彩色浮雕的砂岩砖(Talatat)拼凑而成的。这些砖块来自那位离经叛道的异端法老阿肯那顿(Akhenaten)在卡纳克为阿顿神建造的神庙。由于后来的法老试图抹除他的痕迹,神庙被拆毁,这些砖头被填进其他建筑的塔门里做地基。专家们像玩超级拼图一样,把这些描绘祭祀、酿酒和日常生活场景的砖块重新排列。这种跳跃、写实的艺术风格与传统的死板造型完全不同,反映了古埃及历史上短暂而疯狂的艺术革命。
一定要记好卢克索博物馆的午休时间,通常是 9:00 到 13:00,然后 17:00 到 21:00。如果你下午两点兴致冲冲地赶过去,只会吃个闭门羹。现在博物馆已经全面推行电子支付,售票处不收现金,必须准备好国际信用卡(Visa或Mastercard)或者使用埃及当地的各种电子钱包刷卡买票。如果你是学生,记得带上带照片的国际学生证(ISIC),票价能直接减半,这对预算党来说省下的就是一顿丰硕的晚餐钱。
博物馆的位置非常优越,就在尼罗河东岸的交通要道上。如果你住在卢克索东岸的酒店,叫一辆马车或者打一辆出租车过去非常方便,车费大概在 50 到 100 埃镑之间,关键看你怎么杀价。由于它离卢克索神庙只有不到两公里的距离,完全可以下午四点逛完神庙,然后顺着滨河大道慢慢走过来。这段路人行道修得很宽敞,一路上尼罗河上的帆船(Felucca)划破水面,风景比那些破旧的后街好得多。
馆内绝大部分区域目前允许拍照,但必须关闭闪光灯以保护文物色彩。以前需要购买专门的拍照票,现在的政策是手机拍摄免费,但如果要携带专业相机或三脚架,入场时可能需要额外支付约 300 埃镑的器材费用。
对于普通游客来说,一个半小时到两小时就足够了。因为这里的展品经过严选,数量大约在 2000 件左右,不像开罗博物馆那样需要走上大半天。如果你是历史爱好者,预留三个小时可以把每一块浮雕背后的说明牌都看个透彻。
不是一个地方,这两个博物馆虽然都在尼罗河边,但相距约 600 米。木乃伊博物馆规模非常小,主要介绍制作工艺;而卢克索博物馆则是综合性的艺术博物馆,不仅有木乃伊,还有大量的顶级石雕、珠宝和战争武器,内容要丰富得多。
建议选择上午 9:00 开门瞬间或者晚上 19:30 之后入场。上午旅行团通常会先去西岸,而晚上八点以后大部分团队都去吃晚餐或看光影秀了,这时候博物馆里往往非常清静,能够独享与法老对视的空间。
Linda Lim Started off with short 7-minute presentation about the exhibits in this museum. No Queue to buy tickets as this is considered low peak season. There’s even a discount! Good place to start with if you have not gone to the Valleys of Kings and Queens. Close up look of the artefacts that had been excavated. And, prices of the alabaster products in the shop at the entrance of museum is way more reasonable than those shops found opposite the Valleys of Kings and Queens.
Lidia Lopez The Luxor Museum is a must-visit. The line is short, making entry quick and easy. Although the museum is small, it’s beautifully curated with a rich collection of artifacts that provide fascinating insights into ancient history. It's an engaging experience for history enthusiasts and offers a compact yet enriching glimpse into the past. No need to purchase tickets in advance. Highly recommended!
Peter The Luxor Museum, situated along the Nile River in Luxor, Egypt, is renowned for its exquisite collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts. Opened in 1975, the museum offers a carefully curated selection of treasures, including statues, jewelry, pottery, and artifacts from tombs and temples of the Theban region. Highlights include the striking statues of pharaohs and gods discovered in Luxor Temple and items from the tomb of Tutankhamun. The museum's modern design and well-lit displays provide an intimate and engaging experience for visitors, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts.
Jacques Biggs Fantastic experience. At the heart of the museum are two mummies with some of their treasures. Flow of the museum is great and you are lead around without wondering around aimlessly. All pieces are well maintained and there is fair amount to see including information on each piece. We did the museum after visiting Karnak Temple in the afternoon, the air-conditioning was a blessing in the heat of the summertime.
Matt Smith Interesting! This museum is not the largest. Probably 30-60 minutes is fine based on what your interest level is. As you first go in there is a ‘presentation’, I had read that it was interesting but it turns out this may have changed. Instead we walked into some kind of workshop for young people! So skip that! The main museum consists of several artifacts from the Ancient Egyptian era - some have signage explaining what they are and their history. Some do not, which is a shame. The highlight for me was the two mummies within. You can get gruesomely up close and see these 3000 year old mummies - fascinating! It is worth noting that many of the exhibits have braille for increased accessibility. I probably wouldn’t bring kids unless they are really into it. They’ll like the mummies and a few of the caskets, but it’s not interactive or child friendly really.