想要逃离开罗的燥热与喧嚣,开车沿着亚历山大那条著名的海滨大道一路向东到底,就能看到蒙塔扎宫(Montaza Palace)的大门。这座被当地人称为夏宫的皇家园林占地面积约150公顷,折合360英亩,是埃及近代皇室避暑的首选地。不同于吉萨金字塔那种厚重的荒凉感,这里满眼是翠绿的棕榈树和深邃的地中海蓝。虽然目前的入园门票涨到了75埃镑左右,但对于想要在海边吹吹风、看一眼埃及版佛罗伦萨建筑的人来说,这笔钱花得挺值。
说起这座园林的起源,得追溯到1892年。当时的埃及赫迪夫阿巴斯二世一眼看中了这块突出海面的岬角,在这里建造了萨拉姆莱克宫(Salamlek Palace)。最初这里只是他用来狩猎和招待客人的行宫,建筑风格深受奥斯曼和佛罗伦萨影响。现在这座建筑已经改建成了高档酒店,虽然普通游客进不去房间,但在外面看看那红白相间的线条,还是能感受到百年前埃及皇室的审美情趣。
园子里最吸睛的建筑莫过于1932年由国王富阿德一世扩建的赫拉姆利克宫(Al-Haramlik Palace)。这座宫殿融合了土耳其和意大利文艺复兴风格,最标志性的就是那座模仿佛罗伦萨旧宫的塔楼。塔楼上方的细节非常精致,每当夕阳洒在淡黄色的外墙上时,整座建筑就像从童话里搬出来的。遗憾的是,这里目前作为国宾馆使用,大门紧闭,咱们只能隔着铁栅栏和花园拍张合影。不过即便如此,光是建筑外立面那些复杂的雕花和拱窗就足够让人端详好一阵子。
从宫殿区向海边走,你会看到一座连接着陆地与小岛的石桥。这座桥是园内的出片圣地,桥那头的茶岛(Tea Island)曾是皇室成员品下午茶的地方。虽然现在茶岛有时会因为修缮或私人活动关闭,但站在桥上看着地中海的浪花拍打礁石,那种开阔感非常解压。如果你运气好赶上开放,在岛上的咖啡厅坐一坐,吹着海风喝杯红茶,大概需要花费100到150埃镑左右,体验感远胜过市中心的喧闹茶馆。
蒙塔扎花园最迷人的地方在于其植被的多样性。这里种植了大量的椰枣树和各类热带植物,在缺水的埃及,能维持这么大面积的绿地确实不容易。顺着园内的小径步行,你会发现不少当地家庭带着毯子和野餐篮在草坪上聚会。这里的海岸线很长,有几处半开放的沙滩。虽然沙质可能不如红海那么细腻,但水质非常清澈。要是逛累了,找个靠海的台阶坐下,看当地孩子跳进海里游泳,这才是亚历山大最真实的生活节奏。
去之前得先弄清楚,你买的75埃镑门票只是进大花园的入场券。如果你是打车或者自驾进去,车子也是要额外收费的。园内的物价普遍比市区贵一截,一瓶矿泉水可能会卖到20埃镑。说实在的,建议在门口的小卖部先买好水和零食。关于开放时间,花园理论上是24小时开放的,但为了安全和拍照效果,建议下午两三点左右到,逛两个小时刚好能赶上地中海的绝美日落。
从亚历山大市中心的斯坦利桥打车过来,大概需要40到60分钟,车费约在80至120埃镑之间,具体看你砍价的本事或者用Uber打车的价格。蒙塔扎宫周边有一些海鲜餐厅,但价格往往虚高。如果想吃地道的,建议往回走一点,去迈阿密区(Miami district)找那些排队多的本地小店。如果你打算在园内待上一整天,记得带件薄外套,地中海的晚风到了傍晚还是挺凉的。
目前赫拉姆利克宫与萨拉姆莱克宫内部均不对普通公众开放,游客主要在占地150公顷的花园内活动。萨拉姆莱克宫目前已改建为高档酒店,只有住客或在该酒店餐厅用餐的客人才有机会进入。对于大多数人来说,主要的游览内容是欣赏建筑外观、漫步皇家花园以及远眺地中海风光。
两地距离约15公里,在路况良好的情况下开车大约需要30分钟,但考虑到海滨大道经常堵车,建议预留1小时左右。你可以选择早上去图书馆感受文化氛围,中午在海滨大道吃顿海鲜,下午三点左右到达蒙塔扎宫欣赏落日。这两个景点分列海滨大道的两端,刚好构成了亚历山大一日游的经典路线。
这里非常适合带孩子放风,因为园内几乎没有机动车乱窜,且有大面积的草坪可以奔跑。园内占地约360英亩,空间极其宽裕,比起拥挤的亚历山大市区街道,这里的空气质量和安全性都要高出不少。带孩子在茶岛桥附近看海、在棕榈树下野餐是当地非常受欢迎的亲子活动。建议准备好防蚊虫的药水,毕竟植被多的地方蚊子也不少。
Stefan ZETTL It's a very big garden and it's very beautiful and also the palace itself is very beautiful. The problem was that the beach facilities and the palace itself were closed but we paid the full entrance fee. Nobody told us.
Stefan ZETTL It's a very big garden and it's very beautiful and also the palace itself is very beautiful. The problem was that the beach facilities and the palace itself were closed but we paid the full entrance fee. Nobody told us.
Bassma Galal After the renovations, the park has become truly a masterpiece, sweeter and much larger than the first one. The sea there is mind-blowing and the view of the palace is clear from anywhere there. The place remains very spacious and there are no cars inside, so it is very safe for children. I recommend it to all of my friends 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
Bassma Galal After the renovations, the park has become truly a masterpiece, sweeter and much larger than the first one. The sea there is mind-blowing and the view of the palace is clear from anywhere there. The place remains very spacious and there are no cars inside, so it is very safe for children. I recommend it to all of my friends 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
Kamila Braulińska The palace is closed (and rather will be) for visits. However, it's also interesting from outside and the park is great. Actually, differentiated areas, like a conglomerate of many parks. Quite an area to walk. Sea breeze, areas to relax, particularly beautiful when not crowded (crowded on Fridays and public holidays; unfortunately, sea of trash after the public holiday). Picturesque bridge, small "forests", a lot of grass, and a nice park around the pond (this one with more concrete). Many areas at the very sea shore - not available. An escape from the reality of every-day Egypt.
Kamila Braulińska The palace is closed (and rather will be) for visits. However, it's also interesting from outside and the park is great. Actually, differentiated areas, like a conglomerate of many parks. Quite an area to walk. Sea breeze, areas to relax, particularly beautiful when not crowded (crowded on Fridays and public holidays; unfortunately, sea of trash after the public holiday). Picturesque bridge, small "forests", a lot of grass, and a nice park around the pond (this one with more concrete). Many areas at the very sea shore - not available. An escape from the reality of every-day Egypt.
Khalid M Really nice escape from the noise and chaos of Alexandria. It’s a lil outside the main tourist area, but a quick (and cheap) Uber ride away and def worth the trip. The palace itself isn’t open to the public, but the grounds are really well laid out and nice to walk through. Bikes are also available to rent at the entrance, but it’s small enough that you can walk around the entire palace in less than an hour. Docking one star bc the landscaping could be better maintained (especially around the entrance). Highly recommend if you’re visiting Alexandria.
Khalid M Really nice escape from the noise and chaos of Alexandria. It’s a lil outside the main tourist area, but a quick (and cheap) Uber ride away and def worth the trip. The palace itself isn’t open to the public, but the grounds are really well laid out and nice to walk through. Bikes are also available to rent at the entrance, but it’s small enough that you can walk around the entire palace in less than an hour. Docking one star bc the landscaping could be better maintained (especially around the entrance). Highly recommend if you’re visiting Alexandria.