亚历山大滨水长廊(Alexandria Corniche)全长将近 15 公里,西起凯特贝城堡(Citadel of Qaitbay),向东一直延伸到蒙塔扎宫(Montaza Palace)。这条沿着地中海划出的优美弧线,不仅是埃及亚历山大市的交通动脉,更是这座城市的灵魂客厅。对于第一次到访的人来说,这条路既有地中海的浪漫,也充满了开罗式的人间烟火。你不需要买票进入这个巨大的开放空间,只要走在人行道上,海风就会告诉你亚历山大和埃及其他地方究竟有什么不同。
这条长廊现在的模样大多定型于 20 世纪 30 年代。当时的埃及国王傅德一世聘请了意大利建筑师进行规划,试图将亚历山大打造成世界级的海滨城市。走在路上,你会发现一边是波涛汹涌的蓝色地中海,另一边则是维多利亚风格、装饰艺术风格(Art Deco)与现代主义建筑交织的城市立面。
长廊的最西端就是凯特贝城堡(Citadel of Qaitbay)。它建在古代世界七大奇迹之一——亚历山大灯塔的遗址上。这里是长廊视野最开阔的地方,海浪猛烈击打着几百年前的巨石护堤。进入城堡需要购买门票,目前成人票价大约为 150 至 200 埃镑。城堡外围的防波堤是当地年轻人最喜欢的约会地点,很多人会在这里钓鱼或者兜售贝壳工艺品。建议早晨 9 点左右到达,避开中午暴晒的同时,也能避开下午密集的大巴游客团。
如果说凯特贝城堡代表了古老,那么位于长廊中段的斯坦利大桥(Stanley Bridge)就是现代亚历山大的名片。大桥全长约 400 米,拥有四个巨大的伊斯兰风格塔楼,造型极其出片。虽然它是一座公路桥,但两侧设有宽阔的人行道。走到桥中心往回看,你可以清晰地看到亚历山大城市天际线呈扇形铺开。很多本地人喜欢在桥下的海滩(Stanley Beach)游泳,这种海边生活方式在干燥的埃及内地是无法想象的。跨过这座桥时,别忘了多留 10 分钟看一眼日落,那是整条长廊最迷人的时刻。
长廊转角处那个巨大的斜切圆柱体建筑,就是著名的亚历山大图书馆(Bibliotheca Alexandrina)。它的建筑语言非常现代,外墙刻满了世界各地的文字。这里距离海边仅有一街之隔,长廊在这个区域变得格外宽敞。图书馆门口的广场是观察亚历山大大学生生活的最好窗口。虽然图书馆本身是室内景点,但它那面正对地中海的巨大玻璃幕墙,在阳光照射下会反射出刺眼的光芒,这已经成了长廊景观的一部分。
要在长廊玩得舒心,有些潜规则必须提前掌握。这不仅仅是一次散步,更是一场与当地社会深度碰撞的旅程。你得学会在车流中生存,也得学会识别哪家的肝脏三明治最正宗。
说句实话,在长廊漫步最大的挑战不是体力,而是交通。这里的车速非常快,且很少有红绿灯。如果你想从靠海的一侧走到靠建筑的一侧,建议跟随当地人的步伐,看准时机快速通过。此外,长廊的大部分路段几乎没有遮阴物。埃及下午 2 点的太阳毒辣得能让人脱皮。聪明的玩法是把游览时间切成两段:上午 10 点前或者下午 4 点后。中午那段时间,最好躲进路边的咖啡馆里。不少咖啡馆保留着老派的欧式装修,点一杯土耳其咖啡(Turkish Coffee),坐在窗边看窗外奔流不息的车潮,那才是亚历山大该有的节奏。
长廊边上不全是高档餐厅,那些推着小车的小商贩才是味蕾的宝藏。一定要试试亚历山大式的肝脏三明治(Kebda Iskandarani),这是当地的特色快餐,口感咸鲜辛辣。如果你觉得胃受不了,可以买一杯烤玉米(Roasted Corn)或者一份仙人掌果。在斯坦利大桥附近,有不少经营了数十年的 Gelato 冰淇淋店,买一个球走在海边,海风吹来的咸味和冰淇淋的甜味融合在一起,这种感觉非常奇妙。到了晚上,长廊边上的“Ahwa”(露天茶馆)会坐满抽水烟的人,加入他们,你会发现埃及人的夜生活其实才刚刚开始。
去长廊玩,不要指望能一鼓作气走完全程,那会让你累得对地中海失去兴趣。合理的规划能让你的旅行体验感翻倍。
亚历山大的海拔只有 5 米左右,地中海气候明显。千万不要在冬天最冷的 1 月或 2 月来,那时候不仅有大风,还会有剧烈的暴雨。最佳游览季节是每年的 4 月到 6 月,以及 9 月到 11 月。这段时间气温维持在 25 度上下,非常舒适。至于一天中的时段,下午 5 点是绝对的黄金时间。此时夕阳会将整座城市染成橘黄色,随后海风转凉,当地家庭纷纷出动,那种平和且充满生机的生活气息是你在开罗那些景区绝对感受不到的。
长廊太长,靠腿走完 15 公里是不现实的。建议分段步行,中间路段使用 Uber 或者当地的黄色出租车。使用 Uber 的好处是价格透明,从凯特贝城堡打车到斯坦利大桥大约也就几十埃镑。如果你想体验更本土的交通工具,可以尝试蓝白相间的小巴(Microbus),不过你需要提前查好路线或咨询酒店前台。长廊上还有一种双层观光巴士,如果你时间有限,花几十块人民币坐上一圈,可以最快速地把整条海岸线的地标尽收眼底。
长廊作为城市的公共步行道是完全免费开放的,全天 24 小时都可以进入。只有当你进入长廊周边的具体景点,如凯特贝城堡(约 150-200 埃镑)或亚历山大图书馆(约 70-100 埃镑)时才需要单独购票。
长廊总长约 15 公里,如果不间断步行,大约需要 3 到 4 小时。但不建议全程步行,最合理的做法是选择核心的 3 公里精华段(如图书馆到凯特贝城堡段)漫步,其余路段乘坐出租车或双层巴士。
长廊是亚历山大警力分布较密集的区域,总体非常安全,即便在晚上 10 点依然人头攒动。不过作为游客,仍需警惕那些过于热情的搭讪者,尤其是在凯特贝城堡附近,拒绝不必要的导览服务并留意随身财物即可。
长廊沿线很少有专门的公共厕所,但在斯坦利大桥和图书馆附近分布着大量咖啡馆和餐厅。建议在这些店里消费时顺便解决内急,路边的长椅虽然多,但大多没有遮阳棚,正午时分并不适合久坐。
Ayman Hussein The best city for the sea view and weather is so nice
Rana hns Needs to be much more cleaner On the other hand, it's so lovely and beautiful
Md Hafizul Islam Golder The Alexandria Corniche is a scenic waterfront promenade that stretches along the Mediterranean coastline of Alexandria, Egypt. The term "Corniche" is commonly used to refer to a road or promenade along the waterfront, providing stunning views of the sea and often lined with parks, gardens, and recreational areas. The Alexandria Corniche is a popular destination for both locals and tourists, offering a relaxing atmosphere and beautiful vistas. Here are some key features and attractions associated with the Alexandria Corniche: Mediterranean Sea Views: One of the main attractions of the Corniche is its panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. Visitors can enjoy the sea breeze and take in the sight of the waves crashing against the shore. Landmarks: The Corniche is dotted with landmarks and notable buildings, including historic structures and modern developments. It's a picturesque area where visitors can explore the city's architectural and cultural heritage. Gardens and Parks: Some sections of the Corniche are adorned with gardens and parks, providing green spaces for relaxation and leisure activities. These areas may include walking paths, benches, and recreational facilities. Restaurants and Cafes: Along the Corniche, there are often restaurants and cafes where visitors can enjoy local and international cuisine while taking in the waterfront views. Recreational Activities: The promenade is a popular place for walking, jogging, and cycling. Many people visit the Corniche for recreational activities and to enjoy a leisurely stroll along the waterfront. Sunsets: The Alexandria Corniche is particularly renowned for offering spectacular sunset views over the Mediterranean. It's a favorite spot for those who want to witness the sun setting over the sea. Cultural Events: The Corniche may host cultural events, festivals, and public gatherings. These events contribute to the lively atmosphere and showcase the city's cultural vibrancy. Qaitbay Citadel: The Corniche is located near the historic Qaitbay Citadel, a 15th-century fortress that adds to the area's historical significance. The Alexandria Corniche serves as a vibrant and picturesque area where residents and visitors alike can enjoy the beauty of the sea, engage in recreational activities, and appreciate the cultural and historical richness of Alexandria.
Dahlia El Atawy Beautiful walk is recommended along Alexandria Corniche; enjoying breathing fresh air and viewing waves of the Mediterranean Sea. You may also get relaxed at the available seats to appreciate the marvellous surroundings or choose to be seated on one of the Cafés established on the Corniche. Enjoy viewing the photos which were taken from different areas.
Abdulrahman Qazzaz Very beautiful corniche, very lively and very scenic as well, the view of the city skyline along the Mediterranean is very beautiful and relaxing, and the weather along the sea is great, the corniche also has plenty of little food vendors and small canteens that sell everything from tea to some snacks to enjoy while you walk along the sea, definitely recommend walking along the corniche and spend some time alone or with your loved ones.