位于赞比亚境内的恶魔池 Devil's Pool 坐落在高度达108米的维多利亚瀑布 Victoria Falls 顶部边缘。这处天然形成的岩石水池被公认为全球最惊险的游泳胜地,每年仅在旱季水位下降时才会显露。它并非全年开放,想要体验这种肾上腺素飙升的感觉,必须精准把握八月中旬至次年一月中旬的时间窗口。由于地理位置处于赞比西河 Zambezi River 横跨赞比亚与津巴布韦的边界,游客通常需要从利文斯顿 Livingstone 出发,通过唯一获得授权的运营商 Tongabezi 预订前往利文斯顿岛 Livingstone Island 的行程,才能合法且安全地进入这片水域。
恶魔池的开放完全取决于赞比西河的脾气。当雨季到来,每分钟有超过5亿升的水从断崖倾泻而下,这时候别说游泳,连靠近岩石边缘都不可能。通常在八月下旬到一月初是最佳探访期,此时河水流量大幅减少,瀑布边缘那一圈天然石墙能够阻挡住急流,形成一个相对平稳的深潭。如果是九月到十一月前往,安全性最高,因为此时水位处于历史低点,石墙结构最稳固。到了十二月下旬,如果上游雨水提前到来,恶魔池随时可能因为安全原因关闭,所以出发前建议务必查看官方当天的实时播报。
很多自由行游客误以为可以自己走过去,这绝对行不通。恶魔池属于利文斯顿岛的一部分,只有通过特定经营者预约才能上岛。每天只有五个时段开放,每个班次严格限制在16人以内。这种小规模经营导致旺季名额非常紧俏,提前一个月预约是基本操作。游客会先在码头集合,乘坐快艇穿过赞比西河,登岛后还要在乱石滩中步行一段距离,最后跳入河中游向池边。如果没有专业向导指引,河底湿滑且不规律的洋流极易让不知情的游泳者误入主河道。
钱的问题必须算清楚,不同时段的收费差异很大。早晨的晨曦之旅 Morning Breeze 价格最亲民,大约在115美元左右,包含简单的早餐,优点是光线柔和,水汽氤氲感强。午餐时段最为昂贵,价格通常在175美元上下,虽然收费高,但正午阳光直射瀑布底部的彩虹最为清晰。下午茶时段价格居中,约150美元,在金色的夕阳下俯瞰1.7公里宽的瀑布面是极佳的视觉享受。建议带够美元现金,虽然可以刷卡,但赞比亚当地网络时好时坏,刷卡机经常罢工。
真正到了河岸边,很多人会产生临阵脱逃的念头。前往恶魔池需要先游过一段约二十米宽的开放水域,水流虽然在旱季较缓,但那种深不见底的墨绿色河水依然让人心虚。此时向导会先跳下去示范路线,你只需跟着他们的节奏,避开暗礁。虽然可以穿救生衣,但为了拍照效果,多数人选择不穿,这时一定要听从向导对于手脚支撑点的指挥。下水前建议穿一双防滑性极好的水鞋,河底的石头长满了青苔,赤脚走路不仅疼且极易打滑。
当你进入池子,向导会让你趴在最外侧的那道石墙上。那一刻你的头和肩膀都在断崖之外,脚下就是108米的万丈深渊,巨大的轰鸣声让耳朵产生嗡鸣感。不要试图自己举着相机,最震撼的照片通常是向导倒挂在石缝中帮你拍摄的俯拍视角。他们对构图非常有经验,知道哪个角度能让你看起来像是要掉下去。如果想拍出彩虹,记得在下午两三点左右到达,那是折射角度最完美的时刻。手机一定要套上挂绳式防水袋,别指望在激流边能用手抓稳它。
很多人担心会被水冲走,其实恶魔池边缘有一道名为岩脊的自然石屏障。这块岩石在水面下阻隔了大部分推力,只要你不是故意站起来或者翻越这道墙,水流其实很难把你带走。不过,池子里有很多喜欢啃食角质层的小鱼,它们会像足浴店里的温泉鱼一样咬你的脚和腿,动作很轻微,但第一次被咬时可能会惊吓到。保持身体重心向下,双手抓牢石壁边缘,这种恐惧感在两分钟后会逐渐转化为一种极致的平静感。
必须具备基础的游泳能力。前往恶魔池需要游过一段大约20米长的自然河道,由于水底有暗流且无法触地,如果完全不会游泳会面临很大风险。如果你水性一般,可以要求向导紧紧拽着你的手一起渡河,但基本的水性仍是必须的。
天使池 Angel’s Pool 是恶魔池的备选方案,位于离岸边更近的位置。当旱季水位稍高,恶魔池水流太急无法进入时,运营商会开放天使池。两者的体验类似,但恶魔池位于瀑布正中央,视角更开阔且更靠近悬崖边缘,通常游客首选都是恶魔池。
利文斯顿岛的登岛年龄限制通常是8岁,但要进入恶魔池游泳,一般要求孩子年满12周岁且水性良好。因为现场的环境完全是纯自然的,没有任何护栏或人工保护设施,年幼的孩子很难在湍急的水汽和乱石中保持平衡。
除了泳衣之外,最关键的是防滑水鞋和带挂绳的手机防水袋。赞比西河的岩石非常锋利且湿滑,普通拖鞋会被水冲走。此外建议带一件轻便的速干衣,快艇往返和上岸后风力很大,很容易着凉感冒。由于地处赞比亚和津巴布韦交界,如果你从津巴布韦侧过来,别忘了提前办好 KAZA 联合签证,单次过桥费就要30美元左右。
canyoudoanybetter Popular spot! Costs a little to visit and a fair amount of time to get there from Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Devils pool is actually in Zambia. When you go here you are escorted and held onto when taking pictures! You would not want to get sucked over the falls! Enjoy!
Liesel Steinberg Wow wow wow! I never thought I'd be doing what I was doing at devils pool ! Will I do it again! ...nooooo 😃 😀 When i look back , i think my husband and I was crazy 🤪 but what a memorable & unforgettable experience 💓
JP Willemse An amazing experience.
Travel Bug Victoria Falls is absolutely stunning, but to experience the Devils Pool is something else.... no words can describe it. To feel the power of the Mighty Zambezi River while your on the edge of the fall, one needs to experience it themselves. Your journey starts with a safety run down by the team, then a short boat ride to Livingstone Island where you are greeted with a smile/warm welcome and a traditional drink of maize meal. Then a short swim to Devils Pool before you plunge yourself in. The team was absolutely amazing. They are with you every step of the way to ensure that you have the most amazing time. After enjoying your swim and photos taken, you then swim back to Livingstone Island where a scrumptious breakfast awaits you (more photos taken). Highly highly recommend the Devils Pool if your ever in Livingstone Zambia.
Keith Roussel It is a wonder to see Victoria Falls, but swimming in Devil's Pool makes the experience far, far more immersive. This pool is only accessible during the dry season. I visited at the end of December when the water was low. It is best to book the tour as far in advance as possible. The tour begins at the Livingston Hotel in Zambia. If you are staying in Zimbabwe, it is a simple matter to just walk across the border to the hotel. The tour gathers at the sundeck beside the river. From there we took a wild speed boat ride to an area near the pool. From the drop off point we had to wade through the river to the pool. In the pool you can lean over the edge. Unlike that other guy, I only fell down once..lol. After photos we were treated to an excellent meal on an island in the middle of the river. I've been lots of places and done lots of things, but this is one of my top experiences.