大多数人来到利文斯顿(Livingstone)都是直奔那座轰鸣的维多利亚瀑布,但如果想在水雾之外看清这片土地的筋骨,利文斯顿博物馆(Livingstone Museum)是绕不开的停靠点。这座博物馆位于镇中心繁忙的莫西奥图尼亚路(Mosi-oa-Tunya Road),红瓦白墙的西班牙殖民风格建筑在阳光下分外扎眼。作为赞比亚历史最悠久、规模最大的综合性博物馆,它早在1934年就已经开门迎客。虽然馆内的设施略显陈旧,灯光有时也有些昏暗,但那种被时间沉淀下来的厚重感,是那些新建的高端展览馆所无法比拟的。
这座博物馆的历史比赞比亚建国还要早。它最初是为了纪念探险家大卫·利文斯顿(David Livingstone)而建,后来逐渐演变成了记录赞比亚自然、考古和部族文化的国家级宝库。走进大门,你会先看到一座标志性的钟楼。这口四面钟背后还有个令人唏嘘的故事,它是由当地商人哈利·苏斯曼捐赠的,可惜他在钟楼揭幕前就去世了。如果你在整点时分路过,还能听到那沉闷而准时的报时声,仿佛在提醒你这里不仅有瀑布的喧嚣,还有凝固的时间。
博物馆的主体建筑完成于1951年,由罗伯茨少校设计。这种在非洲内陆少见的西班牙风格,让它在利文斯顿整齐的街道中脱颖而出。2005年城市百年庆典时,馆方对外部进行了翻修,并在正门立起了两尊铜像。一尊自然是那位 Scottish 探险家利文斯顿,另一尊则是捷克医生兼制图师埃米尔·霍鲁布(Emil Holub),正是他绘制了世界上第一张精确的维多利亚瀑布地区地图。去之前可以先在门口拍拍照,因为进馆后就不能随便拿相机乱晃了。
说到具体的游玩安排,大家最好预留出两到三个小时。博物馆距离维多利亚瀑布入口大约10公里,打个车或者坐当地的小巴都很方便。国际游客的门票目前是5美元一人,对于这样一个体量的国家级博物馆来说,价格还算公道。需要注意的是,馆内严禁拍照,虽然在大厅或者中庭偶尔能通融,但进入核心展厅后会有管理员紧盯着。另外,馆里没有空调,全靠高挑的房顶和自然风散热,十月旱季最热的时候进去可能会觉得有点闷,建议清晨九点刚开门时就进去。
利文斯顿博物馆最吸引人的地方在于它的杂糅。它没有把所有东西塞在一起,而是分成了考古、民族志、自然史、艺术和利文斯顿个人展馆。每个展厅的风格跨度极大,前一秒你还在看远古时代的石头剪子,后一秒可能就面对着充满原始野性的巫术面具。
如果你是冲着这位探险家来的,利文斯顿展厅绝对不会让你失望。这里珍藏着这位传教士亲手书写的信件和日记,虽然纸张已经发黄甚至有些破损,但上面的字迹清晰可辨,记录了他穿越大陆时的艰辛。展柜里还摆着他的航海图、老旧的医学器材,甚至是他在探险途中穿过的那件大衣。看这些东西的时候,你会觉得那个课本里的历史人物突然变得鲜活了,仿佛能闻到一百多年前赞比西河岸边的泥土味。
民族志展厅大概是这里最具感官冲击力的地方。赞比亚有七十多个部族,这里展示了他们几百年来的生存智慧。最吸引眼球的是那一排排形态诡异的木雕面具,有的代表神灵,有的用于成年礼。关于巫术的展区可能会让人背后发凉,那里陈列着部族医者使用的各种道具。此外,还有各种手工编织的篮筐和乐器,这些手工艺品反映了汤加人(Tonga)和洛齐人(Lozi)在面对维多利亚瀑布这种自然伟力时,如何建立起属于自己的信仰体系。
考古展厅里的重头戏是“布罗肯希尔人”(Broken Hill Man)的头骨复制品。这个原始人类头骨是1921年在赞比亚卡布韦(Kabwe)发现的,距今已有超过20万年的历史,是研究人类进化的关键环节。虽然原件目前还在大英博物馆,关于归还的谈判也持续了几十年,但这个一比一的复制品依然能让你感受到震慑。这里还有从石器时代到铁器时代的各种铁簇和陶器,展示了这片土地在殖民者到来之前,就已经拥有了高度成熟的文明脉络。
国际成人游客的票价通常为5美元,儿童票约为3美元。赞比亚本国居民的价格则要便宜得多,只需支付10克瓦查左右。建议随身带一些小额美元或当地货币。
展厅内部严格禁止摄影和摄像,主要是为了保护易损的古老日记和织物。不过在博物馆的前厅和室外的纪念雕像处是可以拍照的。如果确实需要拍摄,必须提前向馆方申请商业许可。
博物馆位于利文斯顿镇中心的莫西奥图尼亚路,距离维多利亚瀑布赞比亚一侧的入口约10公里。乘坐计程车大约需要15分钟,车费通常在5到10美元之间,上车前记得跟司机商量好价格。
博物馆的开放时间是每天9:00至16:30。由于馆内没有中央空调,建议在上午10点之前或下午3点之后入馆,以避开正午的酷热。圣诞节和元旦期间博物馆会闭馆休假。
Albert Moono Bwalya Pretty good historical artefacts and historical culture. However I felt like the museum could do more to capture the depth and vastness of this amazing land a culture of the Zambian and southern people
Andy Wayne The Livingstone Museum, previously known as David Livingstone Memorial Museum, as well as Rhodes-Livingstone Museum, is considered as one of the oldest and also the largest museums that can be found in the Republic of Zambia. Located in the city of Livingstone, in the vicinity of the impressive Victoria Falls, the museum has an exhibition of artifacts which are related to local history and prehistory, including photographs, musical instruments, and possessions of the Scottish missionary and explorer, David Livingstone, after whom the city got its name.There is an open archaeological site next to the museum that showcases items from the early Stone Age to the present, astonishingly covering some 250,000 years. Established as a cultural institution in 1934, visitors can be witnesses of the actual tools, journals and maps which were used by Livingstone himself, making the museum certainly the best one in Zambia. As it is usual, this museum too is divided into sections that showcase the previously mentioned archaeology, history, ethnography, art and natural history artifacts, where for a small symbolic fee, people can visit it every day, except on Christmas and New Year’s Day, and learn a bit more about the longstanding history of Livingstone. Visiting the museum is a definite glimpse at Zambia’s history from 1550s to the present day, making it a perfect window into the country’s historical past and culture.Certainly one of the more interesting sections is the history gallery which traces the origins of the Bantu people, the era of British colonial rule and the period till Zambia achieved independence from the colonial rule. Nevertheless, the more eerie part is the special witchcraft exhibit that will definitely give every visitor the willies with its unique yet somewhat terrifying artifacts. All in all, an unequivocal piece of Zambia which should never be missed while visiting this beautiful country in the southern part of Africa, as it will give the necessary knowledge to everyone who would like to get to know a bit better this part of the world.
James N. Nkhoswe Very educative and entertaining place, rich in not only Zambian 🇿🇲 history but also the whole Africa 🌍 too,depicting both natural and anthroplogical evolutionary ages
Tinotenda Leroy Chingore It was a wonderful experience i got to learn about David Livingstone and see some of his clothes he used to wear etc. Also got to see how people used survive back then.
Jörg Schöpfel Nice place to spend an hour or 2. Impressing (cool) building. Interesting stone age stuff. For me most impressing the collection of witchcraft items from the past. Also good to learn about Zambian history. Interesting sidefact - the potion for men. Good news for all other men - we are all having the same fears. The gift shop is quite good and low fixed prices. See also the East-German motorbike of independence leader Kauna.