- 兹瓦犀牛保护区- 景点攻略Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch
- 自然风光
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乌干达兹瓦犀牛保护区全攻略：步行追踪野外白犀牛
兹瓦犀牛保护区（Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch）位于乌干达纳卡松戈拉地区，占地约7000公顷，是乌干达境内唯一能看到野外犀牛的地方。这里距离首都坎帕拉大约176公里，开车顺着去往默奇森瀑布国家公园的公路走三个半小时就能到。目前保护区内生活着超过30头南非白犀牛，游客可以在持枪向导的带领下，离开越野车，靠双脚走进灌木丛，近距离观察这些重达两吨的陆地巨兽。
兹瓦保护区的野外追踪体验
步行追踪白犀牛的真实流程
在兹瓦追踪犀牛和在其他国家公园坐车看动物完全不同。到了总部换好票后，向导会先带你开车进入犀牛出没的特定区域，然后所有人下车开始徒步。向导会根据脚印、粪便新鲜程度以及无线电定位来寻找犀牛。通常步行时间在30分钟到1个半小时之间。找到犀牛后，由于白犀牛性格相对温顺，只要听从指挥，游客可以靠近到距离它们大约6到10米的地方观察。那种没有车门遮挡、直接面对巨大生物的压迫感非常真实，你能清晰听到它们啃食草料的声音。
寻找珍稀的苏丹巨鹳
除了犀牛，兹瓦还是乌干达观察苏丹巨鹳（Shoebill Stork）的绝佳地点之一。这需要清晨六点左右出发，乘坐当地人的独木舟深入卢格格沼泽（Lugogo Swamp）。相比于维多利亚湖的马班巴沼泽，这里的游客更少，看到这种长着鞋子状大嘴、外形酷似史前生物的鸟类概率很高。这种活动通常需要提前预约，因为独木舟载客量有限，而且清晨的薄雾还没散去时，是这种鸟最活跃的时候。
实用行程规划与省钱避坑建议
费用明细与预算参考
钱的问题得算清楚，兹瓦的收费分为几个部分。对于外国游客，步行追踪犀牛的费用大约是每人50美元，这笔钱主要捐给乌干达犀牛基金会用于反偷猎。如果你还要进入保护区参观或者参加夜间徒步，可能还需要支付额外的门票费用，通常在20至25美元左右。如果打算看苏丹巨鹳，船费和向导费加起来又是另一笔开销。建议出发前去官网查看最新价格，因为那里的门票政策偶尔会根据保护区与政府的合作关系进行调整。
最佳游玩时间与交通方案
虽说兹瓦全年都开放，但避开雨季是明智的。乌干达的四月、五月以及十月、十一月雨水很多，灌木丛里的泥巴能没过脚踝，追踪起来体力消耗巨大。最好的时间是十二月到次年二月，或者是六月到九月的旱季。交通方面，大多数人会把这里当作去默奇森瀑布的中转站。如果你是从坎帕拉自驾或者包车，记得在早晨七点前出门，否则坎帕拉市区的堵车能让你在路上多耗两个小时。
装备选择与安全常识
别穿短裤和凉鞋去追踪犀牛。保护区里的草丛里不仅有蚊虫，还有带刺的灌木，建议穿长裤和防滑的徒步鞋。为了防晒和防虫，宽檐帽子和驱蚊液是标配。关于安全，虽然犀牛看起来很安静，但它们毕竟是野生动物。向导带枪是为了应对突发情况或者驱赶游荡的野牛，游玩过程中绝对不能大声喧哗，更不能尝试投喂或触碰。如果向导让你后退，必须立刻照做，不要为了拍一张特写照片而冒险。
保护区内的食宿安排
两种不同档次的住宿体验
保护区里主要有两个住处。阿穆卡猎游小屋（Amuka Lodge）走的是精品路线，有游泳池和环境极佳的小木屋，适合预算充足、想在森林里享受安静夜晚的人。如果想省钱，可以选择保护区运营的宾馆（Ziwa Guesthouse）或者露营地，设施简单但干净，晚上能听到灌木丛里的各种虫鸣鸟叫。餐厅提供的饭菜以西式简餐和乌干达当地的主食为主，价格比外面稍微贵一点，但味道还算地道。
常见问题
追踪犀牛需要多长时间？
整个活动通常持续1.5到2.5小时，具体取决于犀牛当天在什么位置。步行寻找的过程大约占一小时，找到后你会有大约30分钟的观察和拍照时间。
这里有非洲五霸中的其他动物吗？
除了白犀牛，你在这还能看到羚羊、疣猪、猴子以及偶尔出现的豹子。虽然这里没有大象和狮子，但兹瓦的价值在于它是乌干达复育白犀牛的唯一基地，能填补你在其他国家公园看不到犀牛的遗憾。
孩子可以参加犀牛追踪吗？
保护区对参加步行的儿童有年龄限制，通常要求在6岁以上。因为追踪过程需要保持安静并长时间行走，太小的孩子可能会有安全风险或体力不支，建议带小孩的家庭提前咨询向导安排较近的观察点。
去兹瓦需要提前预订吗？
如果你只是路过去看犀牛，通常直接开车进去现场买票即可。但如果你计划住宿、看苏丹巨鹳或者参加夜间徒步，务必提前至少一周通过邮件或电话预订，尤其是旱季的旅游旺季，床位和独木舟都非常紧俏。
兹瓦犀牛保护区 用户评价
Katherine Sleeth - 5
Wonderful experience visiting Rhino's in the Ziwa sanctuary. Located 3-4 hours drive from Kampala. Multiple lodges nearby to stay in. We saw 6 rhino's total and 5 of them were active. Guide was good (bring some cash to tip him with you on the walk) but our group size was a bit too big (12-16) and a few of them had missed the briefing which meant they weren't walking as directed (single file) and kept talking loudly. Most of the other groups were 6-8 so perhaps ours was an exception.
Sara Pasquini - 5
This place is amazing! The rhinos aren’t aggressive so you can’t get very close to them. I recommend not spending the night as there is nothing to do and the animals don’t really come close. We did the night walk and it was over at the lodge so we literally saw nothing. For a stop on the way to Murchison Falls or a day trip, it is well worth it!
John Ordelheide - 5
Stoped in on our way from Murchison Falls to Kampala. It was a bit of an afterthought however it is well worth the stop and it is right on the way. We were greeted with a cold fruit juice drink and after paying the park entrance fee we proceed to the staging area. Here we placed our lunch order and met our guide. He gave us a quick run-down of what was going to happen and how we needed to act so as to not disturb the rhinos. Then we got in our car and followed our guide to the area the rhinos were. After a very short walk through the bush we were able to see several Rhinos up close which was amazing. I think what stood out for us was our guide. He was very knowledgeable and above that had some good jokes that kept us laughing. We also had lunch at the restaurant which had a decent selection in line with other restaurants in Uganda. Food was good and the service was great!
Jason Prew - 5
We had a trek at ziwa to see the wild Rhinos. We were lucky enough to observe a mother and baby going about their everyday life. The guide was very knowledgeable and friendly and with his guidance allowed us to get incredibly close to these gentle giants.
Chloe - 5
The rhino trekking was incredible. We were looked after by a friendly and knowledgeable guide from start to finish. We spent ages watching the rhinos and were lucky to see so many. The guide was really nice and answered all of our questions and we felt very safe. The food is great and the service was amazing, you can see the Ugandan crane whilst eating too and watch other animals. A must visit!!
