姆布罗湖国家公园(Lake Mburo National Park)虽然是乌干达面积最小的稀树草原保护区,面积仅约260平方公里,但它的存在感绝不低。它是乌干达境内唯一能看到黑斑羚(Impala)的地方。事实上,坎帕拉(Kampala)通往西部大猩猩栖息地的公路上,很多旅行者会把它当作中转站,但真正住下来的人才会发现,这里是乌干达少有的能脱离越野车束缚、用双脚或马背丈量荒野的公园。
从坎帕拉出发驱车约240公里即可抵达,路况整体较好,正常驾驶大约需要4小时。这条路线有个很棒的传统,就是路过卡雅布韦(Kayabwe)的赤道标志线时停一停,拍张照或者喝杯咖啡。距离公园最近的城镇是莱安通德(Lyantonde),从这里再往南开一段土路就能看到公园大门。如果你从坎帕拉方向过来,通常会从恩沙拉门(Nshara Gate)入园;若是从西部姆巴拉拉(Mbarara)方向折返,则建议走桑加门(Sanga Gate)。
钱的问题得算清楚。根据乌干达野生动物管理局(UWA)的最新标准,外国非居民成人的入园门票是每24小时40美元。如果想在湖上坐船,每人需要额外支付30美元。如果是自己开车进去,每辆车还有约10美元到30美元不等的车辆入园费。这里不收现金的情况时有发生,建议提前备好带有足够余额的银行卡或咨询向导是否可以代缴。园内没有ATM机,随身带点当地先令发小费或在休息站买零食会方便很多。
这是姆布罗湖最吸引人的标签。因为园内没有狮子和象群,只有零星的花豹和大量的食草动物,所以这里开展了全乌干达最成熟的徒步巡游(Walking Safari)。在武装护林员的带领下直接走入草原,这种感觉和坐在车里完全不同。你可以近距离观察白蚁丘,或者在几米开外看着伯切尔氏斑马(Burchell's Zebra)淡定地嚼草。如果预算充足,推荐预订骑马巡游,这是由园外的米辛戈旅馆(Mihingo Lodge)经营的项目,收费在60到80美元之间。马背上的视角更广,而且野生动物对马的警惕性极低,斑马甚至会以为马是它们的远亲而主动靠近。
姆布罗湖本身就是五个湖泊群的核心。花2小时坐船在岸边绕一圈,能看到密集的河马群和巨大的尼罗鳄。对鸟类爱好者来说,这里有超过350种鸟,最珍贵的要数非洲鳍趾鷴(African Finfoot)。这种鸟极度害羞,总是躲在伸向水面的灌木根部。清晨六点半出发时冷到需要抱着热水杯,但只要能拍到这种罕见水鸟,一切早起都是值得的。
虽然白天看似温和,但姆布罗湖的夜晚是属于捕猎者的。这里的花豹密度在乌干达名列前茅。如果打算在园内过夜,强烈建议参加夜间驱车巡游。在强力探照灯的帮助下,你有很大机会在相思树的分叉处看到潜伏的花豹,或者观察到夜猴、丛林狼等白天难得一见的生物。相比于大型公园,这里的灌木不算太厚,发现目标的概率其实更高。
到了姆布罗湖,你不需要像在其他公园那样费劲去找动物。黑斑羚成群结队,它们修长的双腿和特有的跳跃姿势是这里的活招牌。此外,这里的长颈鹿其实是后来从默奇森瀑布国家公园迁徙过来的。园内的相思树林非常茂密,这种环境特别对长颈鹿的胃口。由于公园面积小,动物分布相对集中,哪怕只待一天,斑马、水牛、大羚羊和转角羚基本都能看个遍。
说真的,选对时间能让体验翻倍。6月到8月,以及12月到次年2月的旱季是黄金期。这时候草比较短,动物为了喝水会集中在姆布罗湖周边,找起来毫不费力。到了3月到5月的雨季,草原会变得极绿,拍出的照片很有生命力,但泥泞的路况可能会让普通二驱车陷入困境。如果你是自驾,雨季务必租一辆越野性能强劲的4x4车型。
可以,这里对自驾非常友好。路标相对清晰,且主要干道碎石平整,但深入追踪动物时建议还是带上一名护林员,向导费大约20美元。护林员不仅懂动物习性,还能带你走一些导航上找不到的小径。
乌干达全境都有疟疾风险,姆布罗湖周边水系发达,蚊虫确实不少。清晨和傍晚户外活动时,长袖长裤和驱蚊喷雾是硬指标。大多数正规住宿点都会提供蚊帐,出发前建议咨询医生并准备适量的预防性药物。
园内和边境上有不同价位的选择。米辛戈旅馆走高端路线,风景绝佳;洛科博岩石(Rwakobo Rock)性价比极高,建在巨大的岩石堆上,视野开阔。如果是背包客,园内的罗尼奥营地(Rwonyo Rest Camp)提供基础的帐篷和简易房,价格亲民且最贴近自然景观。
如果只是作为中转,2天1晚足够完成一次清晨巡游和一次湖上乘船。但如果你迷恋骑马或深度徒步,建议住满3天。这样你能避开中午暴晒的时段,在清晨和傍晚光线最柔和的时候去捕捉野生动物最真实的状态。
muzinya ronald A peaceful game park in western Uganda, with a variety of wildlife to see...from birds, elands, giraffes to hippos, buffalos, boat trips etc
Livingmarks25 Kazuma hill is definitely a go to place inside the park. Ive seen a lot of zebras, bushbuck, eland and many more.. It is the nearest National park from Kampala city, the road is murram and can be challenging at times. Its a very good adventure to try.
Moses Otukei Lake Mburo National Park, located in southwestern Uganda, is a park offering a unique wildlife experience. Unlike many other parks in Uganda, Lake Mburo boasts a diverse landscape featuring rolling hills, open savannah, acacia woodlands, and stunning lakes. This varied environment supports a wide array of wildlife, including zebras, impalas, elands, buffaloes, and a variety of bird species, making it a paradise for bird watchers. The park's smaller size allows for more intimate wildlife encounters, and activities like guided walking safaris, boat cruises, and horseback riding provide visitors with unique ways to explore and appreciate the natural beauty and biodiversity of the region.
David M Buule Though not as big as other parks, it has a variety of animals mostly zebras, kobs, wild pigs, giraffe, and hippos among others. For those on a tight schedule and limited time in Uganda, it's among the parks closer to the Kampala and takes close to a day to tour through including the boat cruise. For birdders, don't forget that extra zoom lens while boarding the cruise, you will have it in enjoy. Despite of the lack of big cats like lions, the guides ensure that you have a real feel and close connection with the other animals walking with you through the bushes to almost touch. Overall, it is a worthy stop over.
- Pheeneeck - A beautiful park with many animals and birds. There are no lions or elephants in the park, but there are leopard, hippopotamus, zebras and antelopes. The journey from Kampala will take about five hours with a stop. The road is of good quality. Entrance was paid in dollars in cash, although they say that you can only pay by card or mobile money. You can also drive your own car if it has not rained. Night safari requires a ranger in the car which costs $20 per person.