位于达累斯萨拉姆(Dar es Salaam)穆萨萨尼半岛(Msasani Peninsula)边缘的 The Slipway 购物中心是这座城市节奏最鲜明的地方。它距离朱利叶斯·尼雷尔国际机场(DAR)大约 20 公里,如果遇上著名的堵车时段,这段路可能需要耗费一个半小时甚至更久。这里最早在 20 世纪 90 年代是一个修船厂,现在演变成了集购物、餐饮、住宿和海上交通于一体的滨海地标。这里不仅是游客采购马赛手工艺品的集散地,更是通往邦戈约岛(Bongoyo Island)的唯一官方登船点。
走进中心核心区域,最先看到的就是密集的纪念品摊位。这里的马赛木雕、串珠首饰和坎加(Kanga)布料琳琅满目。说真的,这里的价格比卡里亚库(Kariakoo)市场要贵出不少,但胜在环境整洁且安全性极高。摊主们习惯了外籍人士的讨价还价,通常可以尝试从报价的三分之二开始往下谈。如果运气好,能在这里淘到质地非常细腻的黑檀木雕刻,或者纯手工缝制的马赛凉鞋。这些小摊位通常从早上九点营业到傍晚六点左右。
除了露天的手工艺品摊位,走廊内还分布着一些走中高端路线的精品店。其中 Amani 这种品牌售卖的服饰融入了非洲元素和现代剪裁,很受欧美游客欢迎。这里的书店也非常推荐去转转,能买到很多关于坦桑尼亚动植物保护、地理历史的英文原版书籍,甚至包括制作精美的塞伦盖蒂迁徙地图。这些书在其他城市很难买到如此齐全的版本。对于喜欢收集邮票或小众明信片的人来说,中心里的小型邮局窗口偶尔能买到印有坦桑尼亚五霸图案的纪念票。
很多人来到 The Slipway 是为了去邦戈约岛(Bongoyo Island)躲避城市的喧嚣。前往海岛的快艇码头就在中心最靠海的一侧。目前往返船票加上海洋公园门票的综合费用大约在 40,000 到 60,000 先令之间。建议出发前去柜台核实最新价格,因为燃油附加费偶尔会有浮动。首班船通常在上午九点半发出,之后的班次大约每两小时一班。航程非常短,大约 30 分钟就能看到白色的沙滩。返程的最后班次一般定在下午五点,千万别错过,否则只能高价雇私人渔船接送了。
登上邦戈约岛后,你会发现这里几乎没有永久性建筑。岛上的遮阳棚需要支付大约 5,000 先令的租金。吃饭的问题要在登船前或者刚上岛时就预订好,通常是当地渔民刚捕捞上来的龙虾或海鱼。这里的浮潜环境比较看天气,退潮时珊瑚礁离水面很近,划水时要格外小心划伤。建议自备潜水鞋和浮潜面罩,虽然码头有租赁点,但卫生状况往往差强人意。岛上没有淡水淋浴设备,回程后可以在 The Slipway 酒店的公共区域做简单冲洗。
到了饭点,The Slipway 的选择多到让人头疼。Terrace 餐厅位于二楼,视野最开阔,适合下午茶或者正式晚餐。如果想吃地道的意式薄饼,Woodbury 的明火烤炉皮萨名气不小。对于预算有限的旅行者,外围的小型咖啡馆提供大约 15,000 先令左右的简餐。在这里喝咖啡时经常能看到背着电脑工作的外籍自由职业者,氛围非常国际化。如果想尝试当地口味,附近的鱼市摊位虽然不在中心内部,但步行五分钟就能体验到刚下船的各种海产,价格要接地气得多。
如果不打算吃饭,单纯为了看日落而来也是值得的。下午五点半左右,码头边的栈桥是拍照的最佳机位。印度洋的海水在夕阳下会从浅蓝色变成深邃的橘红色,远处的帆船(Dhow)剪影非常有非洲韵味。很多当地家庭会在周末下午来这里散步,小孩子在木质平台上跑闹,这种烟火气是高档酒店包围圈里少有的体验。建议点一杯当地生产的 Safari 或 Kilimanjaro 啤酒,坐在靠海的木椅上消磨掉最后的余晖,这才是达累斯萨拉姆正确的打开方式。
如果你是自驾前往,The Slipway 拥有一个相对宽敞的地面停车场,前 30 分钟通常免费,之后按小时计费。不过在周五晚上或周末,这里经常停满。叫车软件在这一区域非常好用,Uber 或 Bolt 的司机随叫随到,但要记得确认目的地是 Msasani 的 Slipway,以免被带到其他类似名称的小商场。从市中心希尔顿或凯宾斯基酒店打车过来,非高峰时段大约 15 分钟即可到达。
这里的治安在达累斯萨拉姆算是顶尖水平,门口有安保人员检查车辆,步行进入也比较安全。中心内设有自动提款机(ATM),支持 Visa 和 Mastercard 取款。虽然大多数大型餐厅和精品店接受刷卡,但在马赛市场买纪念品或者支付邦戈约岛的杂费时,现金依然是硬通货。建议随身携带一些小额的先令。钱的问题也得算清楚,换钱最好去银行柜台或者中心正规的找换店,不要随意在路边找人兑换,以免遇到假钞。
基础票价通常只包含往返交通和海洋公园门票,不包含任何装备。你可以在 The Slipway 码头边或者上岛后租赁,租一套面罩和呼吸管的价格大约在 10,000 先令。建议最好自备,因为岛上的租赁设备由于使用频繁,咬嘴的磨损和卫生情况往往一般。
虽然直线距离只有 20 公里左右,但达累斯萨拉姆的交通极不稳定。如果你的航班是在傍晚或深夜,建议至少提前 3 到 4 个小时从 The Slipway 出发。高峰期尼雷尔路(Nyerere Road)的拥堵可能让这段路程超过 2 个小时,稳妥起见最好咨询酒店前台当天的实时路况。
露天的马赛手工艺品摊位通常只接受现金,包括坦桑尼亚先令或美元。只有那些位于室内、有固定门脸的品牌店和精品店才配备刷卡机。如果你打算在这里进行大采购,建议提前在中心内的 ATM 机上取足现金,因为砍价时现金往往能获得更大的折扣力度。
由于坦桑尼亚靠近赤道,日落时间全年变化不大,通常在傍晚 6:15 到 6:45 之间。如果你想抢占 Terrace 餐厅或者码头边视野最好的位置,建议在下午 5:30 左右就位。这时候阳光已经不再灼人,海风也变得凉爽,正是拍照和休息的最佳时点。
Florence Mageni Its a nice place because it consists different priduct shops from the locals, various restaurants, beach view.
Mr Bill Bowling Located right on the bay. As a good section of shops in restaurants. Nice place to walk and people watch berries
Bernard Ngie Discovering a Hidden Gem in Dar Es Salaam for Leisure and Shopping If your travels take you to Dar Es Salaam and you find yourself searching for something to do, I've found a delightful spot that combines leisure, shopping, and dining into one enjoyable experience. While it's true that Dar Es Salaam might not be overflowing with tourist attractions, this place proves to be an exceptional find in the bustling city. Imagine a place where you can enjoy a leisurely walk, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere unique to Tanzania's largest city. This location offers just that, with the added benefit of a shopping experience that allows you to dive deep into the rich culture of Africa. The market is a treasure trove for anyone looking to bring home traditional African artifacts, providing a tangible piece of Tanzanian heritage. But the experience doesn't stop with walking and shopping. The food here is nothing short of amazing, offering an array of dishes that reflect the diverse flavors of the region. Whether you're in the mood for local cuisine or something more familiar, you're likely to find something that satisfies your taste buds. This spot is a sanctuary for those looking to escape the mundane and dive into a day filled with casual exploration, shopping, and dining. It's a unique blend of culture, leisure, and gastronomy that you'd be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the city. For anyone visiting Dar Es Salaam, this place is a must-visit. It's an ideal way to spend a day immersing yourself in the local culture, picking up a few souvenirs, and enjoying some of the best food the city has to offer. Don't let the lack of traditional tourist attractions deter you; this spot is a hidden gem that provides a genuine experience of what Dar Es Salaam has to offer. Cheers, BN
Kanwaldeep Sethi Awesome place for a night out with live music bands and a lot of cafes/bars, tourists from across the world, a great view and souvenir shopping as well. For shopping you can buy clothes, fridge magnets, wood work, paintings, hats, necklace, t-shirts, showpieces etc This place is behind the slipway hotel and crowded at night, so better grab your seats otherwise it's a long long wait or maybe you wont even get a place to sit. And yes do order your food in time as these cafes run out of food in no time but u will still get your beer. Cheers
Anuradha Prasanna Good place to hangout in an evening. Best to be there after 6.30. There are couple of restaurants but they are at the highest charges. Went a the Water Front restaurant around 5.30 and it was so sunny with sunset, so better to go at night. There are multiple shops to but food, ice cream, cloths and antiques, also there is a supermarket called Shrijee. This is around 30mins away from City Center (posta).