从开普敦市区往南驱车大约 40 公里,就能到达西蒙镇(Simon's Town)的博尔德斯海滩。这里是目前南非最出名的非洲企鹅栖息地,常年驻扎着超过 2100 只野生企鹅。虽说南非有很多看企鹅的地方,但这里是极少数能让你在几米远甚至更近距离观察它们日常起居的地点。这些海滩的主人起源于 1982 年迁徙而来的两对企鹅“元老”,经过四十多年的繁衍,才形成了如今这种规模。建议出发前查看官网最新信息,目前的国际游客成人票价大约在 190 兰特左右。
大多数旅行团和赶时间的游客会直接冲向 Foxy Beach 区域。这里修筑了非常完善的木栈道,能引导游客走到距离企鹅巢穴只有一两米远的地方。这种设计的精妙之处在于,游客既能看清企鹅羽毛上的水滴,又不会直接踩踏破坏它们的家园。在这里拍照不需要长焦镜头,手机就能抓拍到它们排队跳入海中或者在沙滩上扇动翅膀的瞬间。这里看到的企鹅数量最集中,甚至能看到在木栈道下方躲避太阳的“偷懒”企鹅。
要是你想体验和企鹅一起游泳,那就得去旁边那个真正叫作 Boulders Beach 的海滩。这两个区域共用一张门票,但入口略有不同。这里散落着巨大的、拥有 5.4 亿年历史的球状花岗岩,正是这些岩石挡住了风浪,让这里变成了一个天然的避风港。在潮位合适的时候,你可以在岩石间的海水中嬉水,而企鹅可能就在你身边三五米远的石块上晒太阳。这里的体验更有参与感,而非仅仅是隔着栏杆围观,但记得要和这些小家伙保持至少两米的距离。
开车到海滩附近时,你会遇到很多穿着荧光马甲的当地人在路边挥手指引停车。这些人大多不是官方的工作人员,通常你离开时给个 5 到 10 兰特的小费作为“看车费”就行。建议尽量把车停在 Kleintuin Road 附近的公共停车场,那里距离售票处更近。早晨 8 点开门即入场是最好的选择,那时候大型旅游团还没到,阳光斜射在海面上,企鹅也最活跃,不会像中午那样集体躲在阴影里睡觉。
这可能是有过实地体验的人最深刻的感受。由于大量企鹅长期群居,加上这里的岩石结构导致通风在某些区域不畅,空气中会弥漫着一种非常浓郁的、类似海鱼发酵的味道。如果对气味非常敏感,建议带个轻薄的口罩或者选在海风较大的日子前往。此外,这些被称为“公驴企鹅”的小家伙叫声非常洪亮,听起来确实像是在旷野上嘶吼的驴子,这种奇妙的听觉反馈也是博尔德斯海滩独有的特色。
这里属于南非国家公园(SANParks)管理的保护区,必须购买门票进入。目前的参考票价是国际成年游客 190 兰特左右,儿童半价。建议随身携带一张具备国际支付功能的信用卡,售票处通常接受刷卡,这样可以避免携带大量现金。一张门票可以在当天多次进出 Foxy Beach 的栈道区和 Boulders Beach 的游泳区,所以票根千万别随手扔了。
这里一年四季都能看到企鹅,但每年的 11 月到 12 月是企鹅的换羽期,这期间它们为了保存能量会减少下海次数,看起来毛茸茸甚至有些邋遢,但很适合定点观察。如果你想下海游泳,南非的夏季也就是 1 月到 3 月是最合适的,虽然海水依然凉意十足,但至少岸上的气温能达到 25 摄氏度以上,晒干身体很快。如果是为了看刚出生的雏鸟,3 月到 5 月的繁殖旺季会有更多惊喜。
绝对不能触摸或者投喂这些野生企鹅,违反规定可能会面临罚款甚至更严重的后果。别看非洲企鹅个头只有 60 到 70 厘米高,它们的喙非常锋利,攻击性并不弱,如果感觉受到威胁会毫不犹豫地啄人。保持 2 米以上的观察距离既是为了保护濒危物种的自然习性,也是为了保护游客自己不被抓伤或啄伤。此外,由于它们是濒危物种,任何干扰其育雏的行为都是不被允许的。
Casey “Nomadic Nolan” Nolan My visit to Boulder's Beach in South Africa was nothing short of magical. From the moment I set foot on the beach, I was captivated by the breathtaking scenery and the unique charm of this extraordinary location. The highlight of my visit was undoubtedly the penguins. Seeing so many of them up close in their natural habitat was an experience I will never forget. These adorable creatures waddled around the beach, unbothered by the presence of visitors, and provided endless entertainment. Watching them interact, swim, and bask in the sun was a delightful and heartwarming sight. Another mesmerizing aspect of Boulder's Beach is witnessing the meeting of the two oceans. The convergence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans creates a stunning visual treat, with the distinct hues of the two bodies of water blending and contrasting in the most spectacular way. The division of the waters, marked by a visible line, was a phenomenon I had only heard about but never imagined seeing in person. It was truly awe-inspiring. The serene and pristine environment of Boulder's Beach added to the overall experience. The clear blue waters, smooth boulders, and soft sand create a picturesque setting that feels like a hidden paradise. The beach is well-maintained, and the efforts to preserve the natural habitat of the penguins are evident, making it a responsible and enjoyable destination for nature lovers. Overall, my visit to Boulder's Beach was an unforgettable adventure. The chance to see penguins in their natural environment and witness the incredible meeting of two oceans made it a trip of a lifetime. I highly recommend Boulder's Beach to anyone visiting South Africa – it's a unique and extraordinary experience that should not be missed.
Fragonard Cross Close at 5 pm. Penguins also told us to leave their space that time since they wanna enjoy the sunset by themselves... And we're so selfish to care. Then we enjoy the sunset with them, quietly. 🫠
Harish A Penguin Paradise with a Pricey View. While I was initially thrilled to see penguins up close, the hefty entrance fee at Boulders Beach didn't quite match the experience. Although there are a few designated viewing spots, you mainly see the penguins from afar. The free alternative route near the ticket office offers similar distant views. That said, seeing these adorable creatures freely roaming the beach was still a unique and enjoyable experience. However, more viewing platforms closer to the penguins would have made the visit even more worthwhile.
Яна Торбова There are two entrances - you can buy your ticket here. Entering via the first one, you reach the beach accessible for people coming here to sun-bath. We were hoping to see here penguins along with people. We had no luck. However the second entrance was very rewarding - we saw many penguins from the platform. They are not allowed to be disturbed so please, just admire them. A free parking available on spot.
John Magno We had about 40 minutes to explore the penguin habitat on our day excursion. We enjoyed seeing the penguins living their best lives! We saw some swimming, sunbathing, napping, walking, taking care of babies, and doing penguin things. We like how the boardwalk is elevated, so as to not disturb the daily life of the penguins. We liked how the boardwalk offered different views of the many areas the penguins were. The beach, sand, rocks & water were stunning. Great photography spot to begin with...the penguins were a great added bonus!!! Thank you and your organization for looking out for these beautiful animals!!!