南非好望角(Cape of Good Hope)并非非洲大陆最南端,真正的最南端在约 150 公里外的厄加勒斯角(Cape Agulhas)。这处位于南纬 34 度 21 分的地理坐标属于桌山国家公园,是 1488 年航海家迪亚士最早发现的转角。作为开普半岛的核心,好望角自然保护区占地约 7750 公顷,国际游客现在的门票价格大约在 400 兰特上下,建议提前在手机上查好汇率,入口处支持刷卡支付。
从开普敦市中心开车过去大约需要 1 个半小时。路线通常有两条,东边走西蒙镇(Simon's Town)可以顺便看企鹅,西边走查普曼公路(Chapman's Peak Drive)风景更绝。如果预算允许,最好自己开车,这样能在园区大门早上 6 点或者 7 点(取决于季节)刚开时就冲进去。大巴团通常在上午 10 点后集中到达,那时候停车位一位难求,哪怕是路边的临时停靠点也会塞满车辆。
南非国家公园管理处(SANParks)现在的收费标准对国际游客和当地人区别很大。成人票超过 400 兰特,儿童半价。现金虽然能用,但遇到网络不好或机器找零不足时,刷 Visa 或 Mastercard 信用卡更省心。保护区在夏季(10月至次年3月)的关门时间通常在傍晚 6 点以后,但千万别踩着点走,因为从最南端的灯塔开回到保护区大门还需要 20 分钟左右的车程。
很多人到了停车场就直奔缆车,那台被叫作飞翔荷兰人(Flying Dutchman)的缆车往返票价大约 100 多兰特。实际上这段斜坡步行也就 15 分钟,身体素质还可以的话建议走上去。海拔 249 米的旧灯塔是整个园区的最高点,站在这里你能感受到什么叫风暴角。哪怕是盛夏,这里的南极风也能把人吹得站不稳。如果你想看新灯塔,得沿着悬崖边的小径继续往南走,那条路风更大,但游客只有旧灯塔的十分之一。
好望角的标志牌其实不在山上,而是在海边的礁石滩旁。从开普角(Cape Point)停车场可以开车下山,或者沿着悬崖栈道走过去,单程大概 45 分钟。这块写着经纬度的木牌是合影热门,排队是常态。说个细节,木牌后面的海滩经常能看到被冲上岸的巨型海带,有时候还能在近海的浪花里看到正在冲浪的海豹。这片海域海况极度复杂,绝对不能下水游泳。
在好望角吃东西得像做贼一样小心。这里的查克马狒狒(Chacma baboon)非常聪明,它们能认出各种零食包装,甚至会趁你不注意直接拉开没锁的车门。如果你手里拿着冰淇淋或三明治,大概率会被它们瞬间抢走。遇到狒狒千万不要喂食,这在南非是违法行为,被巡逻员抓到会面临高额罚款。最稳妥的办法是在车里关好窗户吃完再下车。
别只盯着灯塔看,路边的低矮灌木丛(Fynbos)里藏着很多宝贝。好望角是世界上植物多样性最丰富的地区之一。运气好的话,路边就会出现野生的南非鸵鸟,它们经常在海滩上散步。如果你在 8 月到 11 月之间过来,记得往远处的大海看,座头鲸和南露脊鲸经常在这一带的海面上跳跃。这种不期而遇的惊喜才是南非旅行的精髓。
它们都在同一个保护区内,但不是一个地方。好望角是那个有著名标志牌的海滩转角,而开普角是那个有灯塔的山头。两个景点之间有柏油路连接,开车约 5 分钟,步行约 45 分钟,通常建议两个都去。
无论市区天气多晴朗,好望角的风永远超乎想象。这里即使在 25 摄氏度的夏天,海风吹久了也会感到透骨凉。建议带一件防风外套或轻便羽绒服,尤其是打算登顶看灯塔的游客,最好准备带有防脱绳的帽子,否则帽子极易被吹进大西洋。
开普角停车场附近有一家双洋餐厅(Two Oceans Restaurant),景观一流但消费较高,建议提前预约。如果不打算在餐厅吃正餐,一定要在开普敦市区买好简餐和水带进去,因为园区内的快餐店选择非常有限且排队时间极长。
如果只是打卡拍照,从进大门到离开至少需要 3 小时。如果你想体验其中的一段徒步路线,或者在海滩边观察动植物,预留 5 到 6 小时比较充裕。考虑到往返市区的交通,这通常是一整天的行程。建议早上 8 点前出发,下午 4 点左右往回赶,刚好可以避开开普敦市区的晚高峰。
Vianney Duburque Beautiful national park, it is huge. We just spent half a day but you can easily spend more time there. We went to Cape Point and the Cape of good hope. It was a bit crowded but very reasonable. The vistas are wonderful, you can also see wildlife. We saw ostrich, kudu and sea lions. The hike to the lighthouse is very easy and accessible. However the hike of the Cape of good hope is harder and not paved. Very good destination for a little getaway from the city
Krish This place is beautiful. This is like the end of the world. You can see the seals chilling on top of a rock and it is beautiful to see them. Enjoy nature! There is a small Trek that you can do, but then the best part about this point is just looking at the seals that are a little ahead of you. We saw 4 ostriches in this place. so when you drive around just make sure to slow a bit and look around because you may miss them.
Shisher Shrestha Felt overwhelmed after realizing that I was at the southern (west) part of African continent. The beach was nice, the road to this place was also fascinating. Saw ostrich in the area. Good place to visit.
English Rose Went there on the morning of 29 May 2024 which was a public holiday. Beautiful scenery of the sea and mountains. Take sunscreen and a hat, the sun is deadly. Easy pathways to follow. The hiking path leads to a beach which has several steps. A definite must to see. If you're South African please take your ID with otherwise you'll pay non-SA prices. You won't have signal whilst hiking. The Flying Dutchman was cheap and worth taking a ride up. Souvenir shops available too (tourist prices). Overall the hiking trails were clean. Saw some geckos. The wait to enter was 10 minutes due to the car in front of us having 4 people in it and most probably the car machine being slow. So best pay with cash. There are 2 boom gates to enter in but paying with card has some sort of delay. No security to check whether you bring in sharp objects or weapons.
Frenite I would highly recommend visiting the Cape of Good Hope. If you’re willing to climb the path to the top of the rocks, the views are spectacular. The climb may be a bit challenging for some, but the views of all the rugged rock formations over the sea is very rewarding. I would also suggest going to the actual Cape Point and taking the funicular cable car to the top for even more incredible views. There’s so much beautiful nature scenery take in and enjoy at the Cape of Good Hope.