从达喀尔(Dakar)的贝尔(Bel-Air)码头出发,乘上轮渡在北大西洋颠簸不到20分钟,就能抵达这座面积仅有28公顷的小岛。戈雷岛(Gorée)在1978年被列入世界文化遗产名录,它是塞内加尔最具标志性的历史符号。对于多数旅行者来说,这里不只是拍照打卡的背景板,更是了解大西洋奴隶贸易历史的沉重课本。岛上没有机动车,石板路两旁漆成土红色和明黄色的殖民时期建筑,配上恣意生长的三角梅,让这里的步调比嘈杂的达喀尔市区慢了不止一拍。
去戈雷岛的唯一方式是从达喀尔的轮渡码头(Gare Maritime)坐船。非塞内加尔籍游客的往返船票价格是5200西非法郎(约合8.5美元),买票时记得带上护照复印件或者照片备查。轮渡班次相当频繁,平日大约每一小时到一个半小时一班,周末为了应对当地游客潮会加密。建议早上九点前赶到码头,避开中午十一点后的旅行团高峰,那时候售票口排的长队足以让你在烈日下消耗掉所有好心情。
下船踩上戈雷岛的码头后,先别急着往巷子里钻。右手边有一个不起眼的小亭子,每位游客都要在这里缴纳500西非法郎的旅游税,这笔钱主要用于岛上的古迹维护和垃圾处理。虽然钱不多,但如果没有那张黄色的小票,进奴隶堡(Maison des Esclaves)时可能会遇到麻烦。另外,码头边会有热情的当地导游凑上来,如果不需要,礼貌拒绝掉就行,岛上路标很清晰,自己走完全没问题。
建于1776年的奴隶堡是全岛的核心。这座两层楼的小房子背后是极为残酷的历史,底层那些昏暗窒息的小房间曾关押过无数等待被运往美洲的黑人。一定要去看看二楼走廊尽头的那座“不归之门”,门外就是波涛汹涌的大西洋。站在门边,海浪声和狭窄的门框形成的视觉冲击感非常强,不需要过多的解说,那种历史的压抑感会直接撞进心里。奴隶堡周一是不对外开放的,安排行程时千万避开这一天。
穿过岛中部的空地向南走,路会逐渐变陡,那是通往全岛最高点——城堡山(Le Castel)的路。这里海拔大约29米,虽然不高,但足以俯瞰整个戈雷岛和远处的达喀尔天际线。山顶散落着二战时期的旧大炮,甚至还有当年法国军队留下的防御工事遗迹。这片区域现在也是当地艺术家的聚集地,路边很多摊位售卖用不同颜色的沙子绘制而成的沙画。看沙画制作过程挺解压的,但如果想买,记得一定要砍价,成交价通常只有报价的三分之二甚至更低。
码头正对面的那一排餐厅景观最好,但价格普遍虚高,一份塞内加尔国菜鱼饭(Thieboudienne)可能要价7000西非法郎以上。如果不追求无敌海景,往岛内走两分钟,在圣母无原罪教堂附近的小巷子里,能找到不少当地人开的小餐馆,同样的饭菜价格能便宜将近一半。在这里吃饭别催,当地人的节奏就是慢,坐下来喝瓶Gazelle啤酒,等上半小时是很正常的事情。
戈雷岛很小,步行绕岛一圈也就一个多小时。最好的游玩方式是“乱走”,那些没有名字的小巷子里藏着不少私人画廊和充满设计感的水泥住宅。下午三点以后,一日游的散客开始撤离,那时候的光影打在红墙上最美。如果你有时间,在岛上住一晚(岛上有几家不错的民宿)更能体会到这种远离大陆的宁静。清晨在没有游客打扰的石板路上走走,看当地孩子在沙滩上踢球,那才是真正的戈雷岛样貌。
从达喀尔码头出发的单程航行时间大约是20分钟。轮渡非常稳,一般不会晕船。由于需要排队安检和购票,建议比发船时间提前至少40分钟到达码头,特别是周末人流量巨大的时候。
奴隶堡通常在上午10:00开放,中午12:00到14:30之间会闭馆午休,下午17:00彻底关闭。最关键的一点是,奴隶堡每周一全天闭馆,很多游客因为没查清楚这一点而白跑一趟。
岛上基本没有可以取款的ATM机,也不支持信用卡支付。建议每人准备至少15000西非法郎的现金,这足以支付往返船票(5200)、旅游税(500)、景点门票(约1500)以及一顿丰盛的午餐和买纪念品的费用。
塞内加尔的旱季(11月到次年5月)是最佳时间,天气凉爽且几乎不下雨。虽然戈雷岛全年都适合游览,但雨季(7月到9月)气温经常超过30度,加上极高的湿度,在岛上爬山坡会非常辛苦。
Tina Eickhoff I don't know how some people didn't give this place 5 stars...It is a beautiful island, full of history, made me laugh and made me cry...so many artists, good food, colors, a sad past but that must not be forgotten...We took the first ferry in the morning which is very important, you will get the island to yourself for one or two hours...it gets busy after that...I'd also love to have stayed the night there...
A.M.M. Île de Gorée, located off the coast of Dakar, Senegal, is a place of profound historical significance and natural beauty. Visiting this island was a deeply moving experience, blending solemn history with a picturesque setting. The island is most renowned for its role in the transatlantic slave trade. The Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) is a stark reminder of this dark chapter in history. Walking through its narrow corridors and seeing the infamous Door of No Return, where countless enslaved Africans passed before being shipped off to the Americas, was a powerful and emotional experience. The museum provides a poignant and educational journey, emphasizing the importance of remembering and learning from the past. Despite its tragic history, Gorée is also a place of incredible beauty. The island is small, easily walkable, and boasts charming colonial architecture with colorful buildings draped in bougainvillea. The streets are narrow and often cobblestoned, giving a sense of stepping back in time. The peaceful atmosphere is a stark contrast to the bustling city of Dakar, making it a perfect day trip for those looking to escape the city's hustle and bustle. The island offers several small cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy local cuisine while taking in the views of the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches are small but serene, ideal for a relaxing afternoon. Artisans on the island sell a variety of crafts, paintings, and souvenirs, providing an opportunity to take home a piece of Senegalese culture. Climbing to the top of the island provides panoramic views of Dakar and the surrounding sea, making it a favorite spot for photographers. The island's vibrant community and lively atmosphere add to its charm, making it more than just a historical site but also a living, breathing part of Senegalese culture. In conclusion, Île de Gorée is a must-visit for anyone traveling to Senegal. It offers a unique blend of historical education, natural beauty, and cultural richness. The island serves as a powerful reminder of humanity's past while also showcasing the resilience and beauty of Senegalese culture. Whether you're a history buff, a nature lover, or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, Gorée has something to offer.
Djelani Hamm For a long time, Senegal, particularly Gorée Island, has been a number one destination for travelers who want to visit a calm, friendly, and welcoming taste of West Africa. On Gorée, people will tell you about the "last Slave House that was built." The little house was one of the first tourist stops in West Africa that told the story of the Trans-Atlantic enslavement of humans. Starting the 1960's, Boubacar Joseph Ndiaye told the stories to thousands and thousands of tourists, including famous ones like Pope John Paul II, Bill Clinton, George W. Bush and Nelson Mandela. Since his passing in 2009, luminaries, such as Barack and Michelle Obama have continued to make the 20-minute pilgrimage across the waters from Dakar to hear the stories. Nowadays, you can easily find tour guides on the island who imitate the rise and fall of the same musicality that Boubacar Joseph Ndiaye recited about the enslavement of humans. They deliver the story with detail and warmth, often bringing visitors to tears. Other visitors are simply moved by the experience of imagining and sensing the ancestors. Aside from the "Little Slave House," you will want to take a walk around the tiny island that is filled with artists. The vendors will brighten your day as they show their brilliant and colorful wares. You can be in luck and discover some of the artists who actually live on the island. You can visit one of the small factories and witness the magic of the sand painters. Or, you can stroll along and take in the melodic mastery of a kora player. A cas-cas player might stop you to clank the seed-filled gourds while rapping his lyrics at the same time. One of my favorite spots on the island is at the very top where I first met a bricolage artist names Kahlil. He makes arts from scraps from around the island. Since I met him more than 20 years ago, I make sure that on every visit to Senegal, I always bring one of his pieces back to Los Angeles. He lives at the top of the island near an old canon from the colonial days that was used in the film, The Guns of Navarone. You will find other artists at the top who you will want to visit. Back at the bottom of the island, near the dock, you will definitely want to stop at one of the little restaurants to have some of the traditional food. My favorite dish to have is the “National Dish of Senegal” called Thieboudienne. This rice dish is filled with an assortment of roots, seafood, chicken, and cabbage. It’s the sauce on the rice that does it for me. Because of the richness of the island, I have made at least 25 trips to the island in the last 20 years. I highly recommend a stop on the island.
Katy Wheelock No trip to Senegal is complete without a visit to Gorée Island. This pedestrian island just off the coast of Dakar is accessible by a ferry that takes around 30 minutes. You can explore the island by strolling around, but I do think having a guide is a good idea. They will be able to tell you so much more than you would pick up from the Internet, and you will also have a more peaceful visit. Of course, the Slave House is an important, historical, sad, and moving visit. Take your time, wander to the canons on the hill, see the local church and mosque. Maybe relax and have a leisurely lunch before taking the ferry back to Dakar. Many of the vendors can be quite persistent; sometimes a kind "la prochaine fois" can allow you to walk away from their trinkets without feeling pressured to make a purchase. Enjoy the bougainvilleas, the warm colors of the homes contrasting with the cool blues and greens of the sky and sea. Keep an eye on ferry times to get back to Dakar to continue your day.
Drew Doehring Worth the trip to learn more about the transatlantic and domestic slave trade in Western Africa. The prices were reasonable, however I would stay overnight unless you wanted a peaceful island to relax on. The vendors are a bit pushy, but will relent if you tell them no unlike in Northern Senegal. The IFAN museum is only interesting if you can read French. Overall we'd recommend 3-4 hours on the island.