普林西比岛东北端的贝洛蒙特(Belo Monte)是整座岛屿的灵魂所在。它坐落于面积约142平方公里的世界生物圈保护区内,既是一座俯瞰香蕉海滩(Praia Banana)的奢华庄园酒店,也是了解圣多美和普林西比历史的天然课堂。对于想要避开大众旅游路线的人来说,这里提供了极高密度的自然景观与文化厚度。
这片土地最早可以追溯到19世纪末的可可繁荣时期。当时的贝洛蒙特是一座规模宏大的种植园(Roça),其主楼建筑保留了典型的葡萄牙殖民风格,高挑的吊顶和通风良好的宽敞回廊是为了适应西非的热带气候。现在的经营者在保留原有外墙和木质结构的基础上,将其改造成了一家拥有15间精致客房的生态酒店。走进庄园大厅,你会发现脚下的地砖和墙壁上的木饰面都刻意保留了岁月磨损的痕迹。这种修旧如旧的处理方式让人在吹着海风时,能轻易感受到当年的庄园主在这片红土地上经营可可贸易的历史烟云。
贝洛蒙特内部隐藏着一个非常有料的小型博物馆。即使你不是这里的住客,也可以向工作人员申请参观。馆内陈列着大量关于圣普独立前的生产工具、黑白摄影作品以及来自非洲大陆各地的雕塑艺术。最让人印象深刻的是那些记录了早期可可加工流程的实物模型,配合当地向导的讲解,能让人弄明白为什么这里曾被称为巧克力岛。博物馆的开放时间通常与酒店前台同步,从早上八点到下午六点,不收门票但建议在参观完后去他们的露台点一杯当地产的果汁以示支持。
从贝洛蒙特的主观景台看下去,香蕉海滩就像一片金色的月牙嵌在绿松石色的海面上。这条徒步路径并不算陡峭,从庄园出发大约需要走15到20分钟。沿途你会经过密集的棕榈林和巨大的猴面包树,运气好的话还能看到普林西比岛特有的灰鹦鹉在林间跳跃。到达海滩后,你会发现这里几乎没有商业痕迹。海水清澈度极高,非常适合浮潜,但需要自备装备,因为海滩上没有任何租赁服务。这种与世隔绝的静谧感是很多五星级景区无法提供的,你可以完全独享整片沙滩,感受大西洋海浪拍打脚踝的力道。
圣多美和普林西比是全球著名的观鲸胜地,而贝洛蒙特的地理位置正好处于座头鲸迁徙的路径上。每年的7月到9月是观鲸的黄金期,不需要出海,只要带上望远镜站在酒店的无边泳池旁,就有很大几率捕捉到鲸鱼喷水或跃出海面的画面。到了旱季,也就是当地人说的格拉维纳(Gravana)时期,空气透明度变得更高,不仅能远眺海平线,林间的珍稀鸟类也会更加活跃。如果你是摄影爱好者,建议清晨六点半就带上器材守在庄园北侧的露台,那个时间的侧光能把森林的翠绿层级表现得淋漓尽致。
想去贝洛蒙特,必须先从圣多美岛搭乘小飞机前往普林西比机场。这趟35分钟的短途航行通常由圣普航空(STP Airways)或非洲连接航空(Africa's Connection)运营。抵达后建议提前联系酒店接机,因为岛上几乎没有正式的出租车,自行租车的话也建议选择动力较强的四驱越野车。贝洛蒙特对非住客是开放的,但如果你想进入泳池区域或长时间占据观景位,通常需要预订一份午餐。一份包含新鲜渔获和当地木薯饭的套餐价格大约在20到30欧元之间,性价比相对合理,毕竟这里的食材大多来自庄园自有的菜园和清晨的鱼市。
由于这里属于热带雨林气候,即使在6月到9月的旱季,偶尔也会有突如其来的阵雨。这种雨通常来得快去得快,但也意味着你包里必须随时备一件轻便的冲锋衣或雨衣。12月到次年2月是小旱季,天气最热,海水的能见度也是一整年中最好的。如果你的目的是潜水或寻找海龟产卵,这个时间段会更合适。不过要提醒的是,普林西比岛的物资相对匮乏,防蚊喷雾、防晒霜以及常用的肠胃药一定要在出发前备齐,岛上的小商店很难买到这些特定的国际品牌。说真的,在这里待上三天,你会彻底适应那种没有信号、只有蝉鸣和浪涛声的慢生活节奏。
非住客完全可以在贝洛蒙特餐厅用餐,但建议至少提前一天通过电话或邮件预约。餐厅午餐一般从12:30开始,提供地道的圣普风味。人均消费约为25欧元左右,坐在餐厅边缘的座位可以直接俯瞰整个海岸线,是拍照的最佳角度。
从机场驱车前往贝洛蒙特大约只需要15到20分钟。虽然路程很短,但部分路段是原始的红土路,雨天可能会有些颠簸。如果你没有提前预约接送,机场门口偶尔会有当地人经营的面包车,单程费用需要现场沟通,通常建议支付当地货币多布拉(Dobra)。
除了最有名的香蕉海滩(Praia Banana),贝洛蒙特附近还有布拉海滩(Praia Burra)和公牛海滩(Praia Boi)。布拉海滩保留了一个原始的渔村,你可以看到当地渔民手工修补渔网的场景。这几处海滩通过森林小径相连,步行时间都在30分钟以内,但建议请一名当地向导以防在密林中迷失方向。
庄园内的博物馆目前对游客免费开放,馆藏包含了普林西比岛的动植物标本和殖民时期的历史物件。博物馆规模虽小但信息密度极高,通常半小时左右可以看完。建议在参观结束后在庄园前台的笔记本上留言,作为对这座私人博物馆维护的支持。
swissguyflying If you like more secluded places within beautiful natural environment and aren't too picky with the food selection, this is the place to go. Was there 2 nights for business, so I can't comment on tours the hotel provides around Principe. The facilities are good and Banana Beach can be accessed by foot or shuttle that the hotel provides. Beautiful pristine and calm beach! Overall had a very relaxing/soothing few days.
Steve Ababio Roça Belo Monte is special. It's hard to know and appreciate exactly how special it is until you actually take the time and make the trip to go there. It begins to dawn on you on the long windy drive up from Santo Antonio through the expansive cacao plantation, and that feeling is punctuated by the exclamation mark that is the iconic entry gate. The Roça's beautiful grounds meet your gaze with its unique courtyard layout. The main building with lounge reception, luxury rooms and restaurant to your left, more detached luxury rooms, museum and cinema to your right, the wall and gate behind you, more rooms and cacao forest in front of you. The central courtyard is painstakingly manicured and segmented with grass, trees, and sculpted furniture. The Roça has a pool as well as private access to Praia Banana - one of the island's most beautiful beaches. You also have access to dive gear and a dive master if scuba is your thing. Also available are quad miss for moving around the vast estate and quick access to the scenic overlook for breathtaking ocean vistas. Roça Belo Monte is a complete vibe.
James Delaney Incredible location, wonderful historic buildings set amongst tropical rainforest looking out towards the ocean, beaches & forested hills. It’s magnificent. A short drive down a steep road takes you to the most exquisite beaches.
Bruno VAN DEN BOSSCHE This is where I feel at home. An old plantation house restaured to a very nice boutique hotel. Very comfortable, almost luxurious and with all the amenities needed in the Equatorial climate. The team that runs the hotel will make you feel at home. Genuine friendliness, plenty of goodwill and always ready to assist. This is also the place of the famous Banana Beach and although the hotel is located high up on the hill their setup on the beach is connected with a smooth on request transfer service unless one prefers a forest walk. Activities on offer are numerous and for those who want more than just relaxing on the beach or by the pool I can guarantee you that you will not be bored ... obviously all is related to pure nature. The food is good and will accommodate all tastes. I would however invite the Chef to explore dishes from other Equatorial climates and incorporate these in his cuisine. Overall ... great place and I will recommend it to my clients.
Diana Sanni 10/10. There is nothing more than I could ask from this hotel. It's pricey but worth every dime. The service is fantastic. Rooms services twice a day to an incredibly high standard. The food was excellent. I did the Full board option which I believe is the most economical. The excursions they sort for you are incredible. The staff are absolute angels. 3 beaches within walking distance. Banana beach is epic and the boat trip is highly recommended. I would come back again if I was in Príncipe. Helder deserves a special shout out. Great manager and very helpful