圣何塞河口湿地保护区 - 景点攻略
Estero San José
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圣何塞河口：洛斯卡沃斯沙漠边缘的140公顷绿洲
圣何塞河口（Estero San José）是圣何塞卡波（San José del Cabo）市中心以南一片140公顷的湿地保护区，淡水与科尔特斯海（Sea of Cortez）在此交汇，全年免费开放。从老城中央广场步行约30分钟或打车5分钟即到，每年11月到次年3月是观鸟最集中的时段。
这片湿地不在任何一条主干道上。很多在圣何塞卡波住了几天的游客根本不知道它存在。但小镇最初就是因为这片水才建起来的。在海边高尔夫球场和度假酒店之间，它像一块被刻意留白的野地。
一片湿地为什么值得专门去
沙漠和海洋之间，藏着200多种鸟
下加利福尼亚半岛（Baja California）大部分地方是干燥的荒漠。圣何塞河口是少数几处淡水从山间流出、在地表汇成湿地再进入大海的位置。淡水、咸水和红树林在这里叠在一起，鱼群在浅水里游动，鸟就跟着来了。
记录到的鸟类超过200种。常见的有苍鹭、白鹭、鹈鹕、鸬鹚，运气好还能看到鱼鹰俯冲抓鱼。灰嘲鸫、贝氏黄喉地莺这类本地特有或半特有的小鸟，在灌木丛里活动。11月到3月，从北方南下的候鸟在这里停歇，数量和种类都明显多过夏天。
这里比看起来更有来头
原住民佩里库人（Pericú）把这一带叫作“Añuití”，意思是沙漠里的水。狩猎、采集、定居，全围绕这片水发生。1994年它被划为州级生态保护区，2009年又列入《拉姆萨尔公约》国际重要湿地名录。
说真的，走在木栈道上不太会想到这些。但知道脚下这片水养活了这个地方上千年，看鸟的心情会不太一样。
怎么去、什么时候去、待多久
从圣何塞卡波市区出发
从老城中央广场沿安东尼奥·米哈雷斯大道（Blvd. Antonio Mijares）往南走，大约30分钟到河口边缘。不想走的话，叫一辆优步（Uber）5分钟左右，费用不高。自驾直接导航“Estero San José”，地址是Blvd. Antonio Mijares s/n, Campo de Golf Fonatur。
到了之后别以为立刻就是核心区。从主路走到河口主体，还要沿着海滩或土路走一段，大约10到15分钟。这段路有些地方是沙地，也可能有水漫上来，穿凉鞋会很难受，防水鞋或运动鞋更稳妥。
清晨和傍晚，鸟最多
also 河口全天24小时开放，没有大门，没有售票处。想认真看鸟的话，清晨六点半到八点半是黄金时段，光线斜、鸟活跃、游客少。傍晚日落前一个半小时也不错，温度降下来，鹈鹕和鹭鸟会集中活动。
正午不是不能去，只是沙漠气候下太晒，鸟也躲进阴凉处。全年气温大致在16到34摄氏度之间，11月到3月白天更舒服，走路不出汗。
一个小时够，两个小时正好
大多数人在这里停留1到1.5小时。如果只是走一圈木栈道、拍几张照片，一小时足够。带上望远镜慢慢看鸟，或者走远一点到河口与海交汇的沙嘴，两小时也不嫌多。
进去之前要知道的几件事
设施很少，水和食物自己带
保护区几乎没有商业设施。没有小卖部，没有餐厅，厕所也不多。进河口之前，在市区买好水和零食。夏季尤其别只带一小瓶水。
2014年的风暴损坏了部分步道，有些路段后来修复了，有些还是土路或半淹没状态。木板路和土路交替出现，走的时候留意脚下。
可以做的事比想象中多
徒步和观鸟是基本玩法。河口一带有人提供骑马和皮划艇租赁，从水面看红树林和鸟群是另一种角度。日出时段的皮划艇行程在一些旅行平台上有售，通常包含向导和装备。
想省事的话，也有专门的观鸟团，两个半小时左右，向导会带你找本地特有种，比如赞氏蜂鸟（Xantus's Hummingbird）。自己走当然也可以，但有个懂鸟的人在旁边，效率高很多。
安全方面不用太紧张，但要有基本判断
河口本身是平缓的湿地和海滩，没有陡坡或危险地形。主要注意两点：一是沙地和水边泥泞，别穿拖鞋；二是贵重物品别随手放在沙滩上，这一带虽然安静，但不是封闭景区。
带小孩的家庭可以放心走，木栈道和浅水区对孩子来说安全且有趣。不过全程没有遮阴，帽子和防晒霜要备好。
常见问题
圣何塞河口需要门票或预约吗？
不需要。全年24小时开放，免费进入，没有售票处也不需要预约。只有参加皮划艇或观鸟团时才需要提前向运营方订位。
从圣何塞卡波市中心走过去方便吗？
方便。沿安东尼奥·米哈雷斯大道向南步行约30分钟，也可以叫优步，5分钟车程。到了主路入口后，还需沿沙滩或土路步行10到15分钟才能到河口主体。
一天中什么时候去最好？
清晨6:30到8:30鸟最活跃，人也最少。傍晚日落前一个半小时是第二选择，光线和温度都舒服。正午阳光强，鸟活动减少，不建议作为首选时段。
游览河口需要多长时间？
走一圈木栈道并简单观鸟，大约1到1.5小时。如果带望远镜慢慢看，或走到河口与海的交汇处，建议留2小时。保护区内没有餐饮设施，时间较长的话自带水和食物。
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圣何塞河口湿地保护区 |用户评价
I was so glad that I decided to take the time and visit this gorgeous natural estuary. Not only was the scenery amazing, but the number and diversity of birds was great. The walk from centro out to the estuary was about 30 minutes along a main road. You could also take an uber. Once you get there, you will need to walk for a bit along the beach to get to the main part of the estuary. This isn’t an “activity” where you buy tickets etc, it’s just a part of the natural beach landscape that you can walk to anytime for free. I would recommend bringing binoculars to see the birds up close!
We did not know if we were in exactly the right place, but we made it to the estuary and only saw a small portion of it but spent hours there in awe of the beautiful scenery and the birds!!! I’ve never seen so many different birds all in one place - fantastic, just wish we had had the time to explore more!
A beautiful oasis in the resort zone of San Jose. Lots of bird watching and vibrant green colors. This is a public access are so completely free! You can enter through the city streets, or access by walking the beach. At some point you will be walking on sand, so plan footwear accordingly.
Very clean. I parked at the end of the street near the bike trail. Some of the left side was flooded with too much water but the right trail was fine. Walk straight ahead after you park and you will see the trail and a boardwalk. A friendly man from the horse rides showed me were to start. Lots of beautiful waterfowl and Seahawks. I saw a road runner, two turkey vultures as well a few tiny lizards. Very quiet except for with ducks. I wished I had a bird identification book with me.
The estuary, an important eco system, ends near the ocean. We were staying at Royal Solaris and one day walking along the beach going east we came upon the estuary after passing the Holiday Inn resort. We saw lots of birds and fish. There were a few storks, ducks and herons. Sea gulls were flying above and looking for food. We saw them diving down and catching little fish. Mornings and the afternoons are the best times to visit the estuary. In the afternoon we saw several docile brown pelicans. There is a small elevated rickety wood viewing platform. You can get a better view of the wetlands from there. Saw schools of small fish gliding along the edges. We also saw sandpipers along the water's edge trying to grab fish. The whole place is quite active, and peaceful at the same time.
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