安达西贝-曼塔迪亚国家公园(Andasibe-Mantadia National Park)位于马达加斯加首府塔那那利佛以东约150公里处。从首都驱车前往大约需要4小时车程,这片海拔900米至1250米的原始雨林是马达加斯加访问量最高的自然保护区之一。这里不仅是世界上最大的狐猴大狐猴(Indri indri)的最后避难所,更保留了约155平方公里的热带雨林生态系统。对于想要一睹特有物种风采的旅行者来说,这里是落地马达加斯加后最不可错过的生态第一站。
很多人来到安达西贝只为了亲耳听到大狐猴的叫声。这种被称为Indri的狐猴体型巨大,成年后高度可达72厘米左右。它们最奇特的地方在于没有长尾巴,且拥有一种类似鲸鱼或喇叭的洪亮嗓音。清晨六点半左右,当你踏入充满雾气的森林,那种穿透力极强的鸣叫声会在方圆几公里内回荡。这种叫声是它们标记领地的方式。建议一定要在早晨八点前入园,这是它们进食和交流最活跃的窗口期。如果错过了清晨,它们往往会躲在高大的树冠层深处静坐,那时想在密林中寻觅它们的身影就全凭运气了。
整个国家公园其实由两部分组成,旅行者常去的阿纳拉马扎特拉(Analamazaotra)和更为偏远原始的曼塔迪亚(Mantadia)。阿纳拉马扎特拉因为地势相对平缓且靠近国道,是大多数普通游客的首选。这里共有11种不同的狐猴,除了大狐猴,你还能轻易发现戴冠冕的褐狐猴。如果你的体能储备不错且预留了两天以上的时间,我建议雇一名经验丰富的向导深入北边的曼塔迪亚。那里的山路坡度很大,需要穿上抓地力极强的徒步鞋。虽然体力消耗更大,但那里能看到极其罕见的黑白领狐猴和颜色鲜艳的变色龙,重点是那里几乎没有成群结队的游客,能让你彻底沉浸在马达加斯加原始的雨林氛围中。
目前安达西贝国家公园对外国游客的门票价格大约在45000阿里亚里。需要特别留意的是,在马达加斯加的国家公园徒步必须强制雇佣持证向导。向导费用并不包含在门票内,而是根据你选择的路线长短收费。通常分为2小时、4小时和6小时的环线。如果你的目标非常明确,比如一定要拍到某种特定的变色龙,最好在售票处沟通时就选定那些经验丰富的老向导。他们不仅听力灵敏,还能从杂乱的叶片中一眼分辨出伪装极强的撒旦叶尾守宫。建议随身准备一些小额钞票作为向导的额外小费,通常10000阿里亚里就能让他们非常高兴。
这里的气候常年潮湿且降水丰富,年平均降雨量超过1700毫米。即便是所谓的旱季,阵雨也是说来就来。清晨出发时气温可能只有10摄氏度出头,冷到需要抱着热水杯取暖,但随着徒步开始和太阳升起,湿热感会迅速袭来。洋葱式穿衣法在这里非常管用,内层最好穿速干衣,外层套一件轻便的防风防水外套。另外一个容易被忽视的细节是防蚂蟥,尤其是在雨后。建议把裤腿塞进袜子里,并提前喷好高浓度的避蚊胺。如果走的是曼塔迪亚那种深度线路,带上一根轻便的登山杖能帮你省掉不少膝盖的负担。
虽然国家公园内部禁止在天黑后入内,但公园边界的马路两旁依然是夜游的最佳场所。天色全黑后,打着手电筒在路边灌木丛中寻找,你会发现一个完全不同的世界。这里生活着世界上体型最小的狐猴——鼠狐猴,它们的眼睛在手电光下会反射出明亮的红光,看起来像个跳动的小精灵。此外,你还能近距离观察到体型巨大的帕森变色龙。夜间的森林充满了昆虫的鸣叫声,那种感官体验与白天截然不同。进行夜游时一定要找向导带路,因为路边看似普通的杂草里可能就藏着致命的蝎子或伪装成枯叶的守宫。
如果觉得在国家公园徒步太累,或者遗憾不能近距离接触狐猴,那么附近的瓦科纳私人保护区(Vakona Private Reserve)里的狐猴岛是个不错的补充方案。这里的狐猴因为长期与人接触,一点都不怕生。当你乘坐独木舟靠近小岛时,环尾狐猴和褐狐猴可能会直接跳上你的肩膀。虽然这看起来有点旅游化,但对于带孩子的家庭或者摄影爱好者来说,这里能提供绝佳的近距离拍摄机会。岛上还有专门的鳄鱼谷和特有的马达加斯加獴,这种外形像猫又像鼬的肉食动物在野外极难见到,在这里却能看到它们在林间穿梭。
外国游客的单日入园门票约为45000阿里亚里,折合约10至12美元。除了门票外,还需支付约20美元至50美元不等的向导费,具体取决于你选择的徒步路线长度和参与人数。建议在景区入口的官方办公室查看实时更新的价格表。
9月到11月是前往该公园的黄金时间,此时降雨相对较少,气候凉爽适宜徒步,且正是很多野生兰花盛开和狐猴幼崽出生的季节。要避开1月到3月的飓风季,那时候持续的大雨常会导致进入曼塔迪亚景区的土路被洪水淹没,甚至造成道路塌方。
最推荐的方式是租赁带有司机的四驱车,单程大约需要3.5至4.5小时,国道2号线路况在马达加斯加算是不错的。虽然也有当地的计程车(Taxi-brousse)可以到达,但车内通常极度拥挤且发车时间极不稳定,对于追求旅行效率的游客来说并不是好的选择。
必备装备包括抓地力好的登山鞋、防水透气的雨衣以及防蚂蟥袜,因为雨林地面长年泥泞湿滑。另外请携带望远镜,因为大狐猴通常生活在15米以上的树冠层。由于雨林内信号极差,建议提前下载好离线地图或完全信任你的当地向导。
国家公园内部不设住宿,但公园入口附近有多家成熟的生态酒店和精品旅馆,如瓦科纳森林酒店。这些酒店通常就建在森林边缘,清晨在房间露台上就能听到Indri的鸣叫。建议至少在当地停留两晚,这样才能有充足的时间分别体验日间徒步和夜间探险。
Mikhail Naiko The entrance fee was 50k + 80k for a guide To go here is quite far from Tana, but you can see less species than in Lemur Park. Only 4 of 10 lemurs from here are day-active (but they also have night-tours) On other hand, here you can spot Indri and golden sifacas
CK Cheong Good park to see different species of lemurs living in their natural habitat. Needed experienced sharp eyes and a high level of alertness to spot the lemurs as they were well camouflaged and were cautious enough to be stealthy to minimize detection.
Komal Garewal Great park with some premade walkways and stairs. Definitely try the nighttime jungle walk with a guide — they’re absolutely magic when it comes to finding the invisible. Indri hard to find if raining; bring a headlamp and hiking boots for sure!
Travis Davids Amazing national park and the first location where we spotted Lemurs. From the common brown lemur, to the biggest lemur known as an Indri. We even did a night walk here and spotted the Goodman Mouse Lemur which is the smallest species of lemur. Our guide was knowledgeable and eagle eyed. I truly enjoyed this national park full of endemic wildlife.
Valentin Fischer We visited the park in May 2022. In the morning we lent a 4wd to go to the Mantadia primary forest (which requires a 1 hour drive from the Andasibe village according to which pathway you want to take). Our guide found us the 4x4 for 160 000 AR, it is expensive but a commonly charged price for 4 wheelers. We did the Tsakoka itinerary. It is supposed to be the longest. It is where you can spot rare birds and different kinds of lemurs, at least that was before covid. According to our guide, this part is so remote from the road and was so poorly monitored during the pandemic that the locals hunted the lemurs. He said we should have spotted several groups of sedentary lemurs in given places but we barely saw some high up in the canopy, which real high because it's a primary forest. The lush green vegetation is impressive. We went there too late to observe birds and missed the few ones our guide pointed at. The jungle cry I read so much about in the comments is real and it's magical. Watch out for leeches (had one one me) and mosquitoes (heard one I can tell). There are other routes in that part of the park (leading to waterfalls or a natural swimming pool). Mantadia is the primary rainy forest, while Andasibe is a secondary one. The trees are skinny, the vegetation way less diversified and the pathway mainly flat and paved. This is where we headed to on the afternoon, as we didn't spot much fauna in the Mantadia primary forest. It is the same entrance fee but you pay your guide for each route you enter. There we were able to hang out with a group of Sifaka ( about 12 of them). Always keep an eye on the upper branches as they do not bother where their droppings may land. You might have to dodge some bullets. They were much more accostumed to human presence. They were eating leaves and inspecting us from a short distance without embarrassment. We also spotted another group of brown lemurs and that was all. What I can recommend and what we couldn't do is to buy your entrance tickets the night before (before 4pm), so that you can enter the park early in the morning (from 5am). The office only opens at 8am, Malagasy time. You loose valuable hours as birds and lemurs are more active early in the day. Entrance was about 45 000 Ar and our guide 110 000 AR (70000+40000).