很多人以为在肯尼亚看白沙滩只能飞往东部的迪亚尼(Diani),其实在西部的维多利亚湖(Lake Victoria)深处,藏着一座被称为“内陆马尔代夫”的小岛——塔卡维里岛(Takawiri Island)。这座海拔约1133米的岛屿拥有湖区罕见的洁白细沙与透明湖水。从内罗毕(Nairobi)出发大约需要10小时车程到达码头,再转乘45分钟船只即可踏入这片尚未被大众旅游攻占的净土。
前往塔卡维里岛的第一站通常是霍马湾县(Homa Bay County)的姆比塔(Mbita)镇。由于地理位置偏远,交通方案的选择直接决定了旅行的疲劳程度。
姆比塔是进入湖区岛屿的门户。最经济的方式是搭乘当地的“水上巴士(Waterbus)”,这种公共船只单程票价通常在200肯尼亚先令(KES)左右。水上巴士每天有固定班次,通常在上午10点至11点左右出发。如果你错过了班次,或者随行行李较多,可以租用私人快艇,费用约在3000至5000先令之间。私人船只胜在灵活,但在湖面风浪较大的下午,小船的颠簸感会非常明显。
从内罗毕到姆比塔约450公里。如果选择巴士,推荐预订Ena Coach或Easy Coach,票价约1500先令,清晨五六点出发,傍晚才能抵达。对于追求效率的旅行者,建议先飞往基苏木(Kisumu),再租车或乘车前往姆比塔,这样能省下近6小时的颠簸。建议在姆比塔或邻近的鲁辛加岛(Rusinga Island)住一晚,第二天清早趁湖面最平静时登岛,这时候的阳光照在湖面上透明度最高。
走进塔卡维里岛,最强烈的视觉冲击感来自那片延绵约几百米的白色沙滩。这在以泥质岸边为主的维多利亚湖区几乎是个奇迹。
这里的沙子由细碎的贝壳和矿物质长期冲刷而成,踩上去极度松软。最棒的一点是,在淡水湖里游泳不用担心海水那种黏腻的盐分,游完上岸直接晾干就很清爽。岛上的塔卡维里度假村(Takawiri Island Resort)提供皮划艇租赁,你可以绕着岛屿西南角的椰林划行。虽然湖水清澈,但建议在指定区域游泳,并在出发前咨询当地人关于血吸虫病的最新监测情况,虽然该岛周边的流动水域相对安全,但谨慎些总没错。
维多利亚湖是世界第二大淡水湖,面积将近6.9万平方公里。塔卡维里岛周边是翠鸟、白鹭和鱼鹰的天然领地。清晨时分,你不需要望远镜就能看到巨大的鱼鹰在棕榈树梢盘旋。如果你喜欢垂钓,可以跟当地渔民协商,乘着木舟去寻找著名的尼罗河鲈鱼(Nile Perch)或罗非鱼(Tilapia)。钓上来的新鲜罗非鱼直接交给度假村厨师,用最原始的明火炭烤,那种鲜甜感是城市餐厅无法比拟的。
由于塔卡维里岛的大部分优质沙滩和设施属于私人度假村管理,登岛前得先算好这笔账。
如果你不打算在岛上过夜,只是进行一日游,度假村通常会收取500至1000肯尼亚先令的登岛费(Landing Fee)。这笔费用有时包含了一次游泳的入场费。如果是节假日,岛上的管理会更严格,建议提前联系度假村确认是否有接待能力,避免坐了45分钟船到了门口却进不去。
岛上唯一的正式住宿是塔卡维里度假村,由于物资全靠船运,这里的全包价(Full Board)通常在每晚14500先令以上。房间大多是极具非洲特色的石质或木质建筑。对于预算有限的背包客,岛上也设有露营区,自带帐篷的地面费约1200先令。晚上湖风很凉,甚至需要穿一件薄羽绒服,但抬头就能看到完全无光污染的银河,这种体验非常硬核。
塔卡维里岛本身不是国家公园,但核心沙滩区域由私人度假村管理。非住客登岛通常需要缴纳约500-1000肯尼亚先令的入场费。建议随身携带现金,岛上的信号有时不稳定,移动支付可能失败。
搭乘公共水上巴士(Waterbus)或私人快艇大约需要45分钟到1小时。建议选择上午出发的班次,因为维多利亚湖在下午3点以后常有强风,湖面波浪会显著增大,增加航行时间并导致严重的晕船。
岛上主要依靠度假村餐厅供餐,菜品以炸罗非鱼、乌加里(Ugali)和薯条为主。单餐价格约在800-1500先令之间,比内陆城镇贵不少。建议日游旅客自带适量的饮用水和干粮,因为岛上的小卖部物资非常匮乏。
每年12月至次年2月、6月至8月是这里的最佳旅游季。这段时间肯尼亚处于旱季,湖水可见度最高,且不会因为暴雨导致船只停航。4月和5月是大雨季,不建议前往,湖区蚊虫会成倍增加且伴有雷暴危险。
Foot in Africa Safaris Very calm and chilled place. The takawiri island resort has white sandy beaches making it exceptional. Good place for spending the day
Tobias Otieno This is one place you will dream to take your family every time you got a chance. The waters are very clear as drinking water. The serenity of a place far away from the noises of a busy town, watch the sunrise and the sunset come and dive into the water respectively.
Oliver Towett Takawiri Island Resort is such a beautiful place to go and unwind or spend quality time with your family. To get to this place, you have to drive to Mbita town then board a water bus to Takawiri Island, then a speed boat to the Resort. It's advisable to make prior calls to the resort to get proper guidance and make the necessary booking arrangements. Note that, the resort occupies just a small area of the Island and not the entire island. Other key points to note. : 1. They accept day visits, camping and residents depending on availability of the rooms, tent or the number of guests present at the time of visit. 2. The only source of power in is Solar panels since it's an island. 3. The network is not that good and in several places not there at all. You may need to move to specific places to make calls. 4. The lake is safe to swim. 5. The food prepared there is really good. No compromise about it. 6. The owner is soo welcoming and friendly, you will enjoy your vacation. 8. There are less mosquitoes outside so you can enjoy the breeze and the bonfires in peace. 9. Music is discouraged there unless on prior notification to the management. 10. It may not look exactly as it appears on the pics but trust you me, you won't regret your stay there at all. I hope this will help someone out there. Best wishes.
charitie nechesah It's a nice place to go and unwind. No electricity but there is solar. There are mosquitoes in the rooms I suppose it's because the lake is outside. Go with an empty stomach ready to eat. The experience is one to remember. They have bonfires at night. Swimming is done on the lake so you can be sure of the fun. Go with your family to make memories together.
J W (Jacqui) Kati is the host and the owner of Takawiri Island Resort . She has put so much love and care into the place. It shows in the accommodation, the garden, the staff, and the delicious food. Activities that we enjoyed while here were, swimming, hiking, fishing, and paddle boarding. I am sure there is so much more For you to discover. Best hidden gem in Homa Bay, western Kenya. #homabay # westerkenya #tembeakenya #LetsGuide #takawiriislandresort