桑布鲁国家保护区(Samburu National Reserve)位于肯尼亚中部偏北的干旱地带,海拔在800米到1230米之间,占地面积大约165平方公里。这里不像马赛马拉那样有漫山遍野的角马,却藏着肯尼亚北部最独特的荒野景观。埃瓦索恩吉罗河(Ewaso Ng'iro)横穿整个保护区,是这片红土地上真正的生命线。如果你已经看腻了常规的游猎路线,想找点不一样的,这里绝对是首选。离内罗毕(Nairobi)大约350公里的车程,虽然不算近,但当你看到那些长相奇特的生物时,就会觉得这5个多小时的奔波非常值得。
很多人来非洲是为了看非洲五霸,但在桑布鲁,大家盯着的是桑布鲁特有五种(Samburu Special Five)。这五种动物在肯尼亚南部的保护区几乎见不到。最吸引眼球的是细纹斑马(Grevy's Zebra),它们的条纹比普通斑马更密、更细,耳朵圆圆的像米老鼠。还有长颈羚(Gerenuk),这种羚羊能像人一样站立,伸长脖子去够高处的嫩叶。剩下的三样是索马里鸵鸟(Somali Ostrich)、网纹长颈鹿(Reticulated Giraffe)和东非剑羚(Beisa Oryx)。说真的,在镜头里捕捉到长颈羚站立的那一瞬间,比看到一群狮子睡觉要有成就感得多。
这条河流是保护区的核心。因为周围气候干旱,动物们不得不每天到河边喝水。这就给驱车游猎(Game Drive)提供了极佳的机会。在这里不用满世界乱转,守在岸边的灌木丛附近就能看到大象成群结队地横渡河水。桑布鲁的大象体型庞大,而且因为泥土的颜色,它们身上常带着一种独特的红褐色。到了旱季,河水水位下降,你甚至能看到鳄鱼埋伏在浅滩处,等着那些倒霉的羚羊凑过来。这种近距离的原始生存竞争,在游客扎堆的地方很难感受得这么真切。
走陆路的话,从内罗毕出发需要大约5到6个小时。路况在进入纳纽基(Nanyuki)之后会变得稍微颠簸一些,但整体算是不错。如果预算充足且不想折腾,从威尔逊机场(Wilson Airport)直接飞到桑布鲁的简易机场是最省心的,航程只要1个小时左右。到了保护区内部,路面基本是红土路。虽然普通两驱车在旱季也能跑,但为了应对可能出现的复杂地形,强烈建议租用专业的四驱越野车,毕竟谁也不想在狮子出没的地方抛锚。
桑布鲁的最佳季节是12月到次年3月,以及6月到10月。这两段时间是当地的旱季,植被稀疏,动物为了喝水会大批聚集在河岸两旁,找起来一点不费劲。千万要避开4月、5月和11月的长雨季。雨季一来,埃瓦索恩吉罗河水位暴涨,路面会变得极其泥泞,很多低洼处的营地甚至会因为洪水暂时关闭。清晨六点半出发时,车里的气温其实挺低,哪怕是身处非洲,也得准备一件防风抓绒外套,等太阳升高了再慢慢减衣服。
目前桑布鲁国家保护区的非居民成人门票大约是每人每天70美元,价格可能会有变动,建议出发前查看官网或询问地接社。这笔钱是按24小时计算的,如果要在里面住几晚,门票成本得算清楚。住在保护区内价格偏贵,但好处是清晨和傍晚能第一时间赶到动物活跃的现场。请一个熟悉当地动物习性的桑布鲁族向导是非常有必要的。他们对脚印和气味的判断准得惊人,能帮你省掉很多盲目寻找的时间。
保护区内非常安全,只要留在游猎车内并听从向导指挥即可。桑布鲁人非常友好,但如果是自驾前往,建议在日落前回到营地,因为夜间不仅会有大型野兽出没,复杂的路况也容易让人迷失方向。
完全可以。桑布鲁是肯尼亚看花豹(Leopard)的最佳地点之一,这些害羞的猫科动物喜欢躲在河边的金合欢树上。狮子和猎豹也经常在开阔的灌木丛中游荡,虽然数量没马赛马拉那么多,但胜在干扰少,观察体验更好。
选择不少。从奢华的帐篷营地到性价比不错的木屋酒店都有。如果你追求极致体验,有些营地建在河岸高处,坐在阳台上就能看到河滩上的动物表演。建议至少提前3个月预订,尤其是那几个名声在外的高端营地。
进入肯尼亚通常需要接种黄热病疫苗并携带小黄本。由于桑布鲁属于半干旱地带,蚊虫虽然比湿润地区少,但防疟疾的措施还是要做,长袖长裤和强效防蚊喷雾是必备品。
Mathew Taylor This is a park definitely worth seeing. Rugged, diverse landscape with lots of vegetation, small mountains, and the river along its southern edge. A beautifully scenic park to drive around with a multitude of paths you can follow as you search for wildlife. It has a very wild and isolated feel to it so when you come across wildlife in varying surroundings, it makes it memorable trip you’ll never forget
Julio Maina Nderitu A the beautiful semi-arid landscape with unique flora and fauna species such as reticulated giraffe, Gerenuk, Grevy zebra, somali ostrich, wild dogs, striped hyena, kudu, desert rose among others.
Bernard Lomunyak Nestled in Kenya's north, Samburu National Reserve isn't just a wildlife haven, it's a luxurious sanctuary. Lavish lodges like Samburu Intrepids and Sopa Lodge cater to discerning travelers, while Elephant Bedroom Camp and Soroi by Larsens offer intimate wilderness experiences. But the real stars of the show are the Samburu Five; Gerenuk:Graceful gazelles balancing on their hind legs to reach leaves on acacia trees. Reticulated giraffe: Towering beauties adorned with a mesmerizing net-like pattern. Gravy zebra: Sleek stripes distinguish these endangered stunners from their common cousins. Somali ostrich: The world's biggest bird, strutting with flamboyant feathers and impressive speed. Beisa oryx: Majestic antelope with long, straight horns and striking black and white markings. Beyond these iconic creatures, Samburu boasts lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, and over 450 bird species. The Ewaso Ng'iro River carves through the arid landscape, creating a vibrant oasis teeming with life. So, if you're seeking a Kenyan adventure infused with luxury and a unique cast of wildlife characters, Samburu National Reserve awaits.
Cristina Baker It's a long drive from Nairobi but worth it. It's got all sorts of wildlife and the Sarova Shaba camp is great. It's not crazy like the Mara
Rachael Gakunyi I love adventuring new places, as much as there are fewer animals here in Samburu compared to Maasai Mara, I enjoyed the adventure.