鲁马国家公园(Ruma National Park)占地约120平方公里,是肯尼亚唯一能见到濒危马羚(Roan Antelope)的地方。这座公园坐落在尼亚内扎省(Nyanza Province)的兰布韦谷(Lambwe Valley),海拔在1200米至1600米之间,气候相比东非大裂谷其他地区更加湿润。如果已经看厌了马赛马拉的人山人海,这里清幽的灌木丛和连绵的悬崖会让你重新找回野外探索的快感。
马羚是鲁马国家公园绝对的明星。这种体型巨大的羚羊有着类似马的鬃毛和向后弯曲的长角,英姿飒爽。由于栖息地丧失和偷猎,它们在肯尼亚的种群数量一度跌至个位数。早在1966年,这里为了保护马羚被划定为兰布韦谷游戏保护区(Lambwe Valley Game Reserve),直到1983年才正式更名为鲁马国家公园。目前,通过肯尼亚野生动物服务署(KWS)的努力,园内马羚数量维持在50至70只左右,想看到它们需要一点耐心和好运气。
在鲁马开车游猎和在纳库鲁或安博塞利完全不同。这里没有排成长队的越野车,甚至一下午都碰不到别的游客。这种私密性让你有足够的时间观察动物的自然行为。说真的,当你在清晨的浓雾中看到马羚优雅地穿过高草丛,那种孤独而震撼的野性美,是任何热门景区都无法提供的。建议清晨六点半就准时进园,那是马羚活动最频繁的时间点。
虽然是为了马羚而来,但这里的其他住户也很有看头。鲁马是罗氏长颈鹿(Rothschild's Giraffe)的重要繁育基地,这种长颈鹿的特征是腿部白色像穿了丝袜,且身体斑块颜色较深。此外,成群的非洲水牛、杰克逊狷羚(Jackson's Hartebeest)、山苇羚(Mountain Reedbuck)也经常在开阔地带出没。运气好的话,甚至能在灌木深处发现花豹的身影,虽然它们的出镜率远低于马羚。
如果你是观鸟爱好者,鲁马绝对会让你感到惊喜。园内记录在册的鸟类超过400种,其中包括极为罕见的蓝燕(Blue Swallow)。这种燕子是从南部非洲飞来的季节性候鸟,通常在4月到9月之间出现。当你在湿润的草甸边缘观察到它们那闪烁着金属光泽的蓝色羽毛时,就会明白为什么专业观鸟者会把鲁马列入必去清单。这里的犀鸟和白鹭也非常多,随手一拍都是高质感的生态大片。
钱的问题得算清楚。根据肯尼亚野生动物服务署(KWS)2024年的最新调价,鲁马国家公园属于“荒野公园”类别,非居住者成人门票大约在35美元左右,儿童则更便宜。支付方式必须通过 eCitizen 平台或 M-Pesa,售票处通常不收现金,这点出发前务必搞定。交通方面,大多数人会选择从基苏木(Kisumu)出发,开车大约需要3小时。虽然路况在改善,但最后一段进入兰布韦谷的路在雨季会非常泥泞,强烈建议租用底盘较高的四驱车。
每年的1月至3月以及6月至10月是旱季,最适合驱车游猎,因为草木没那么茂盛,动物更容易被肉眼观测到。4月和5月的大雨季节路况极差,不建议自驾前往。至于住哪里,园内有 KWS 经营的自炊式招待所(Oribi Guest House)和两个简单的营地,虽然设施简陋,但清晨推门就能听见鸟鸣。想住得舒服点可以去附近的霍马湾(Homa Bay)镇,那里有一些性价比不错的小旅馆,离公园主入口约42公里。
建议租用四驱车。公园内的碎石路和土路在降雨后会变得异常湿滑,普通轿车极易陷车。即便在旱季,高底盘的越野车也能让你在寻找马羚时进入视野更好的高地路段。
公园边界距离维多利亚湖最近的湖岸线大约只有10公里左右。从公园高处远眺,可以清晰地看到浩瀚的湖面。很多游客会把鲁马游玩与维多利亚湖的乘船游览或访问姆凡加诺岛(Mfangano Island)安排在同一个行程里。
由于靠近维多利亚湖且气候湿润,这里的蚊虫较多,疟疾风险确实存在。建议游玩时穿长袖长裤,并随身携带避蚊胺(DEET)含量较高的驱蚊液。如果是过夜,请务必使用蚊帐。同时建议在出发前咨询医生,准备适量的抗疟疾药物。
Gladys Mwikali Amazing terrain, the park has so many varieties of animals. The guards at the gate are very helpful with directions on where to find most animals.
Joshua Athunga Good customer care. Friendly Warden especially Lydia Chepkoech & Adan Iyalan. Such a nice game drive
Samuel Mumo The unique views comprise a blend of savanna woodland and forest vegetation. Large grazers and browsers can be spotted especially in the tall grass of the low lands overlooking the magnificent hills of south Nyanza.
tom clark This park is fabulous. Provided you don’t need to see Elephants or Lions. Surrounded on nearly all sides by hills and latent parts of the rift mountains it sits on the grass/scrubland below. Loads of Giraffe, zebra, antelope, buffalo, eagles, monitor lizards, even Rhino’s (white and black). Leopards too but we were not so lucky. The bird life is ridiculous and beautiful too. A friendly ranger also took us into the separate enclosure to spot the shy Roan Antelope. We stayed in the KWS lodge. Decent lodgings, a bit dated but comfortable (with a bit of TLC on the window mosquito mesh please!). The lodge stay is extra but the access fee $22 for 24hr pass is comparatively good when you look at other KWS parks. Provided you read what it says in the tin, this park exceeded our expectations, you won’t get surrounded by other tourists much either. Leave the Mara to them and try out this oasis.
Grace Ndutah It is a massive park with a variety of animals. Plan to go either as early as 6Am or from 3Pm to see animals. By 6Pm all vehicles should be out of the park. The guides are really helpful. If you plan to take a trip there, get one. The only problem is that as of Jan 2020, you have to go with your own vehicle. The park will not provide one. The roads in the park are generally okay but an off road vehicle would definitely be better for this trip. Don't forget your binoculars 😊