查拉湖(Lake Chala)坐落在肯尼亚与坦桑尼亚交界处,距离边境小镇塔维塔(Taveta)北部大约 8 公里。这个面积约 4.2 平方公里的火山口湖,最深处接近 100 米,湖水颜色随光照和季节在深蓝、碧绿与土耳其蓝之间不断变幻。如果你正打算从沃伊(Voi)前往乞力马扎罗山,这里是避开大众游猎路线、寻找清凉僻静处的绝佳停靠点。
查拉湖大约形成于 25 万年前,是一座由火山活动形成的破火山口湖。有趣的是,这片湖泊的主权由肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚各占一半,但由于没有明显的陆路边界标识,划着皮划艇在湖心游荡时,你可能不自觉就在两国之间横跳了几回。湖泊周围环绕着高达 100 米的火山口边缘,站在高处向下俯瞰,深邃的湖面像一颗被镶嵌在荒野中的巨大蓝宝石。
湖水的视觉效果非常奇特。由于湖水全靠地下水补给(主要来自乞力马扎罗山的积雪融化),水质极其清澈,能见度很高。清晨阳光斜射时,湖面呈现出厚重的深蓝色;等到正午日照充足,湖边浅水区会转为清透的翠绿色。这种色彩的变幻离不开湖中特有的矿物质成分,也让这里成了摄影爱好者拍摄延时画面的一等去处。
如果从肯尼亚一侧前往,最近的中转站是塔维塔(Taveta)。从内罗毕(Nairobi)坐火车或大巴先到沃伊(Voi),再转乘当地的马塔图(Matatu)大约两小时就能到塔维塔。到了塔维塔小镇,最方便的办法是找当地的摩托车(Boda-boda),大约 20 分钟左右的颠簸土路就能把你送到湖边的入口。说真的,那段路灰尘不小,记得带个口罩或头巾挡一挡。
查拉湖属于社区保护区或私人营地管辖范围,目前的门票价格对外国游客来说通常在 1000 到 2000 肯尼亚先令之间(约合 10-15 美元)。进去之后通常会有当地村民守在山口,他们会热情地要求带你下到湖边。虽然这段陡峭的小径不难走,但支付几百先令的小费请个向导还是有必要的,他们不仅能帮你指认只有当地才有的查拉湖罗非鱼(Lake Chala Tilapia),还能确保你在复杂的灌木丛中不走冤枉路。
想要看全景,就得沿着火山口边缘的土路走一段。这条环形线路大约需要 2 到 3 小时,难度不算大,但要注意脚下的碎石。在这里徒步最大的福利就是背景里的乞力马扎罗山(Mount Kilimanjaro)。建议早上八点前到达,那时候云雾还没升起,雪顶在蓝天的衬托下异常清晰。路边偶尔还能碰到出来晒太阳的岩狸或是色彩艳丽的飞鸟。
从火山口边缘下行到水边大概需要 15 分钟,坡度很陡,鞋底没抓地力的朋友得加倍小心。湖边有营地提供皮划艇租赁,半小时的价格通常在 500 到 1000 先令左右。在深不见底的火山口湖中心划船,四周是垂直的石壁,那种静谧感是肯尼亚其他景点给不了的。很多人担心湖里有鳄鱼,实际上这里的淡水鳄鱼早已因为生态变化而基本绝迹,但为了保险起见,下水前最好再跟营地管家确认一下最新的安全状况。
目前的答案是肯定的,查拉湖被认为是安全的游泳场所,因为这里没有河马,鳄鱼也极少露面。但请记住,湖水极深且岸边坡度极大,对于体力一般或者水性不好的人来说,建议穿着救生衣或仅在靠近岸边的浅水区活动。
如果你是为了看乞力马扎罗山,6 月到 9 月以及 1 月到 2 月的旱季是最佳选择。这时候天空最通透,看到雪顶的几率最高。如果单纯是为了徒步和划船,只要避开 4 月和 5 月的大雨季即可,因为那时候通往湖边的土路会变得非常泥泞,普通摩托车很难通行。
肯尼亚一侧主要以 Lake Chala Safari Camp 为主,提供帐篷营地和基础餐饮。这里的住宿体验比较原始,但也意味着你可以伴着灌木丛里的虫鸣入睡,早起走几步就能看到日出。如果追求舒适度,也可以选择住在塔维塔镇上的小旅馆,价格会便宜不少,单间通常只要 2000 肯尼亚先令左右。
Arthur Preston This is a very calm and serene environment. It harbors the most rare fish in the world Oreochromis hunteri. The environment is breath taking from the vegetation, the lake, the monkeys and the geckos. You should visit the place, and the lake has it legend that a long time ago some villagers were staying on top of the hill before it sank with the village clan. So every night people can be heard screaming and beating drums to be rescued...... Visitors should be very careful with the waters as it's very deep and most people who drowned in it have never been found. And the lake has 7 outlets that drain water to Indian ocean, lake Jipe, Tanzania,
Ivo An absolute marvel! Lake Chala, bordering Tanzania and Kenya, is a sight to behold. The beauty of this lake is unmatched, with its serene waters and stunning surroundings. Canoeing along the edges, with playful monkeys in the trees, is a delightful experience that adds an extra touch of wonder. The view here is simply breathtaking, offering an escape into nature's beauty. If you're looking for a serene, picturesque spot that showcases the natural wonders of East Africa, Lake Chala is a must-visit destination.
Jimmy Gitau Gorgeous crater lake in Taveta, at the border of Kenya and Tanzania. The lake is surrounded by lush vegetation and best of all there isn't much human activity, you see the lake in its most natural setting. The path down to the shores is steep but not difficult to climb. A word of caution - the lake is very deep right from the shores so it's advisable not to swim, however tempting it might be, unless you're an expert swimmer.
susan wangui Such a beautiful lake, all surrounded by a ridge, so you go up a small hill then descend down. Getting to the lake is about a 5mins trek down where you have to watch your steps carefully, and the hike up will get you to break into a sweat.
Daniel Msirikale This is a strikingly beautiful crator lake inside a a caldera. The hike to the bottom is a bit steep so you have to be careful with your footing. The lake itself has magnificent shades of blue, green or turquoise depending on the time of the year and how the light hits it. Only downside is that it isnt that swimmer friendly and you are met with warning signs all the way down. There is a broken canoe there but it would have been a perfect place to canoe or kayak. If you have a drone its also a great place for some aerial shots.