埃尔萨梅尔保护中心(Elsamere Conservation Centre)坐落在肯尼亚奈瓦沙湖(Lake Naivasha)南岸,这里曾是《生而自由》(Born Free)作者乔伊·亚当森(Joy Adamson)与其丈夫乔治·亚当森的故居。1967年乔伊买下这片土地时,这里还只是一处简朴的湖边房产,如今已演变为集博物馆、教育中心和生态旅馆于一体的自然保护基地。支付大约3500肯尼亚先令的门票,就能在享受湖畔下午茶的同时,近距离观察黑白疣猴和超过200种野生鸟类。
步入这座始建于上世纪六十年代的宅邸,最先触动人心的是那些泛黄的照片和手稿。乔伊·亚当森不仅是一位作家,更是著名的野生动物保护先驱,她与幼狮艾尔莎(Elsa)的故事让全球数亿人开始关注非洲的荒野保护。1989年保护中心正式成立为信托基金,旨在延续亚当森夫妇的遗愿,将所得收益全部用于肯尼亚的野生动物保护与环境教育项目。
博物馆区域保留了乔伊生前的生活原貌,陈列着她亲手绘制的肯尼亚部落肖像画。这些画作具有极高的民族志研究价值,细腻地记录了当时许多正逐渐消失的部落服饰。此外,馆内还展示了拍摄电影《生而自由》时使用的道具以及乔伊曾使用过的野外生活用品。参观时会发现,屋内的布局极其紧凑,透露出主人对物质生活的克制以及对户外探索的狂热。
很多游客专门驱车从内罗毕(Nairobi)赶来,就是为了这里著名的湖畔下午茶。每天下午三点到五点,花园里的草坪上会摆满各式自制蛋糕、司康饼和肯尼亚当地红茶。坐在高大的黄皮相思树下,视线越过平整的草地就是波光粼粼的奈瓦沙湖。这不仅仅是一顿茶点,更是肯尼亚少数几个能让人完全慢下来,在海拔约1884米的高原湖泊旁感受微风的时刻。
在这里喝茶时得留神树上的黑白疣猴(Colobus Monkeys),这些拖着长尾巴的精灵经常会在相思树冠间跳跃。埃尔萨梅尔及其周边地区记录到了超过200种鸟类,清晨或黄昏是观赏非洲海雕(African Fish Eagle)捕鱼的绝佳时机。由于保护中心严格限制开发强度,湖岸边的植被保存完好,为许多不常见的水鸟提供了安全的营巢地,拿上望远镜在草坪上坐一坐,半小时内就能识别出十几种不同的飞羽。
对于非肯尼亚居民,目前的成人入场费大约为25美元(约3500肯尼亚先令),该费用已包含博物馆导览以及文末提到的全套英式下午茶。如果打算留宿,这里的生态小屋价格通常包含全餐,但需要提前至少一个月预订,尤其是在七八月份的旅游旺季。建议中午一点左右到达,先参观博物馆了解历史背景,随后在三点准时加入下午茶环节,这样能避开团队游客的高峰期。
保护中心距离奈瓦沙镇中心大约12公里,由于没有直达的公交系统,从镇上打车或租赁摩的(Boda Boda)是比较现实的选择,单程车费通常在500至1000先令之间。如果行程不赶,建议把这里和南边的地狱之门国家公园(Hell's Gate National Park)放在同一天。早起在公园骑行徒步,下午三点左右正好赶到埃尔萨梅尔休息补给,这种动静结合的安排能让人在一天之内体验到肯尼亚裂谷带最精华的自然美景。
如果只是下午茶和博物馆参观,普通散客通常不需要提前预约,直接在入口处购票即可。但如果你是超过10人的团体或者计划在中心餐厅享用正式午餐,务必提前48小时通过邮件或电话联系确认。住宿游客则必须通过官网或旅行代理提前订房,因为这里的客房总数非常有限,只有不到10间。
这里是非常理想的亲子科普基地,园内草坪开阔且安全,孩子们可以近距离观察野生猴子和鸟类。保护中心内部还设有一个专门的环境教育中心,经常会向青少年展示关于奈瓦沙湖生态系统的互动展品。不过要提醒孩子不要喂食野生动物,尤其是那些对食物很感兴趣的疣猴。
完全来得及,从内罗毕市区驱车前往奈瓦沙湖大约需要2到2.5小时,具体取决于裂谷坡道的路况。建议早上九点出发,中午在奈瓦沙湖边简单用餐或在保护中心用午餐,享受完下午茶后于下午五点左右启程返回。回到内罗毕市区通常在晚上八点之前,是内罗毕周边非常经典的单日深度游线路。
Kim King One of my all time favorite place, you get to learn more about joy and George Adamson and the passion they had with nature and wildlife.
Mrlifestyle _ official Great place to relax and enjoy the nature along the lake naivasha
Alex Hongo My visit to Elsamere Conservancy was nothing short of incredible. Nestled on the serene shores of Lake Naivasha, this charming and historic spot offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality that left me deeply moved. The conservancy is a tribute to Elsa the lioness, made famous by the book and movie Born Free, and the remarkable lives of Joy and George Adamson, the conservationists who adopted and raised her. Learning about their groundbreaking work in wildlife conservation was both inspiring and humbling. The stories of their efforts to rehabilitate Elsa and the challenges they faced were brought to life through engaging exhibits and a captivating documentary shown during the visit. It was a powerful reminder of the profound connection humans can share with wildlife and the importance of protecting these bonds. The grounds of Elsamere are stunning. The lush greenery and towering acacia trees create a peaceful oasis, and the views of Lake Naivasha are simply breathtaking. Sitting by the lake, watching the gentle ripples of water and the occasional glimpse of birds soaring overhead, was a moment of pure tranquility. It’s no wonder Joy and George chose this beautiful spot as their home and sanctuary. A highlight of the visit was the delightful tea and snacks served on the terrace overlooking the lake. The spread was a treat—freshly baked scones, tasty pastries, and aromatic tea that felt like a warm hug. The staff were incredibly kind and attentive, making sure everyone was comfortable and well-fed. Their genuine hospitality added a personal touch to the experience that made us feel right at home. What truly sets Elsamere apart is its sense of history. Walking through the Adamsons' former home, now a museum, felt like stepping back in time. Each room is filled with artifacts, photographs, and personal items that tell the story of their extraordinary lives and their unwavering dedication to wildlife conservation. The staff at Elsamere are wonderful ambassadors of the conservancy's mission. They are not only kind but also deeply knowledgeable, sharing fascinating insights about the Adamsons, Elsa, and the wildlife of the area. Their passion for conservation was infectious, leaving us inspired to support efforts to protect nature and its creatures. In summary, Elsamere Conservancy is a gem that offers so much more than just a beautiful view or a cup of tea. It’s a place where history, nature, and heartfelt hospitality come together to create an unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a history buff, or simply someone looking for a peaceful retreat, this place has something special to offer. I left Elsamere with a renewed appreciation for the Adamsons’ legacy, a heart full of gratitude, and memories I’ll cherish. I highly recommend this magical place and hope to return one day to relive the experience.
Jane Bee A truly wonderful place. Such a history from the Born Free days, great people and fantastic food. Zebras and giraffes wonder around and hippos visit at night - beautiful
mugoya emmanuel Got the much needed break from the city and left refreshed refreshed