- 阿伯德尔国家公园- 景点攻略Aberdare National Park
- 自然风光
- 5 评论
肯尼亚阿伯德尔国家公园深度游指南
位于内罗毕以北大约160公里的阿伯德尔国家公园（Aberdare National Park）是肯尼亚非常独特的存在。这里没有马赛马拉那种一望无际的干旱草原，取而代之的是海拔从2100米攀升至4001米的云雾森林和高山草甸。早在1950年，这片占地766平方公里的山脉就成了国家公园。如果你受够了草原上的尘土飞扬，想看看非洲的另一面，这里那股子清新湿润的“苏格兰高地”风情绝对会让你感到惊喜。非居民成人门票大约在52美元，建议出发前查看官网最新信息。
颠覆认知的东非高原奇观
说到肯尼亚，大家脑子里全是金黄色的草原，但阿伯德尔完全是另一副面孔。这里的景观随着海拔变化层次分明，最底层是茂密的雨林，往上走是竹林，最后则是像荒原一样的高山草甸。这种地貌让它拥有了东非最壮观的瀑布群，甚至被很多资深旅行者称为肯尼亚的避暑胜地。
卡鲁鲁瀑布的震撼落差
卡鲁鲁瀑布（Karuru Falls）是公园里的招牌，总落差达到了273米，分为三段跌落。在枯水期它像一条白练，到了雨季则是震耳欲聋的巨响。你不需要高难度的徒步就能到达观景台，站在那里看着水流冲进深不见底的裂谷，周围满是翠绿的蕨类植物，那种空气中弥漫的负离子感在非洲真的很难得。除了卡鲁鲁，附近还有落差稍小的昌尼亚瀑布（Chania Falls），非常适合野餐。
在竹林与高山草甸寻找林羚
这里的动物观察逻辑和草原完全不同。因为植被茂密，你得时刻盯着森林边缘。这里是观察极危物种林羚（Bongo）的绝佳地点，这种红褐色带白色条纹的大羚羊极度害羞。还有巨型森林猪、黑犀牛以及难得一见的黑豹。在高海拔地区开车时，你可能会看到成群的象群在雾气中穿行，这种画面很有电影质感。谁能想到在赤道附近，你竟然需要穿上厚重的抓绒衣去寻找大象。
住在森林核心区的独特观兽逻辑
阿伯德尔最出名的游玩方式其实是“守株待兔”。这里的两家树上酒店定义了肯尼亚高端Safari的历史。不同于其他地方需要开着越野车到处追动物，在这里，你是坐在露台上等着动物来见你。
从树顶酒店到方舟酒店的演变
树顶酒店（Treetops）名气大到离谱，全是因为伊丽莎白公主在这里“上树是公主，下树是女王”的传奇故事。不过受各种因素影响，这家酒店目前的营业状态有时会变动，很多人会转而选择方舟酒店（The Ark）。方舟酒店完全模仿诺亚方舟的设计，有三层观察甲板。酒店正对着一片天然的盐渍地和水塘，这对于森林里的动物来说简直是顶级“健身房”和“咖啡馆”。
晚上不睡觉的食盐观察体验
住在方舟酒店最刺激的部分是晚上的铃声系统。房间里有个蜂鸣器，你可以根据自己的兴趣选择“叫醒服务”。比如一响是象群来了，二响是犀牛，三响可能是豹子。半夜两点被铃声惊醒，披上大衣跑到甲板上，看着几头黑犀牛在探照灯下舔食矿物质，那种静谧的震撼感是草原Safari无法比拟的。讲真的，在那坐一晚上的信息量比开一天车还要大。
避坑建议与实用游玩指南
想玩好阿伯德尔，光有热情不够，还得有点硬核准备。这里的气候和路况比你想象的要复杂得多。别看它离内罗毕不算远，如果路选错了，这一路走得会非常糟心。
关于支付门票与账户准备
现在肯尼亚所有的国家公园都实行了无现金支付，你必须通过eCitizen系统预订。这事儿得提前办，别到了门口才发现没信号或者系统登不上。目前的非居民成人票价是52美元，车辆费按照座位数另算，普通5座小车大约是300到500先令。建议把门票的二维码截图存在手机里，因为山里信号断断续续是常态。
防寒防滑是自驾的第一要务
这地方的温差能教你重新做人。晚上气温经常掉到10摄氏度以下，酒店房间里都有暖水袋，你带的夏装在这里基本废了。另外，阿伯德尔的路面多是肥沃的黑棉土，一旦下雨，路况会瞬间变成溜冰场。虽然有些季节普通车能勉强进去，但强烈建议一定要租四驱车（4WD），否则一旦陷在深山老林里，那可就不是看风景而是求生了。
常见问题
什么时候去阿伯德尔看瀑布最好
最壮观的时刻是10月到11月的短雨季，这时候水流充沛且云雾缭绕。如果你侧重于徒步和看动物，建议选在6月到9月的长旱季。旱季路面干燥利于行车，而且清晨看到肯尼亚山远景的机会更高。
这里能看到非洲五霸吗
理论上五霸都有，但想集齐很难。象群和水牛多到随处可见，黑犀牛在水塘边出现的概率也很大。但是狮子和花豹在密林里极难发现，你得依靠极好的运气或资深向导的经验。如果你只为五霸而来，马赛马拉更适合你，这里更适合看稀有林栖物种。
自驾去阿伯德尔需要导游吗
虽然公园允许自驾，但建议在入口处请一位KWS的护林员当向导。公园内的小路非常多且标志有时会被植被遮挡，有个向导能帮你快速定位瀑布和动物聚集点。向导费大约是每天15到20美元，这笔钱能省掉你很多绕路的时间。
住在公园外面可以吗
可以住在尼耶里（Nyeri）镇上的酒店，价格会便宜不少。但你这样会错过最精华的夜间观察，毕竟树上酒店的核心价值就是半夜那几声叫醒铃。如果是第一次来，建议至少在园内住一晚体验方舟酒店的观兽氛围。
这里的路况普通轿车能开吗
完全不建议。即使是旱季，山路上的坡度和深沟对底盘要求很高。一旦遇到突发阵雨，泥泞的路面会让非四驱车瞬间瘫痪。为了安全，至少要租用高底盘的专业越野车进场。
阿伯德尔国家公园 用户评价
Dominique Kibui - 4
We go regularly to the park. However, this time it was outstanding with elephant herds, buffalos, a hyena mother with her young ones, a wild Boer, a deer and as usually a stunning landscape. The roads were in good condition and dry. It was a feast for the senses.
Akshaya Bhagavathula - 5
Visiting Aberdare National Park in Kenya was an adventure that took me deep into the heart of a landscape filled with lush forests and stunning waterfalls. This park is distinctively different from the savannahs that many associate with Africa, offering a cool retreat filled with rich biodiversity. The moment you enter Aberdare, you're enveloped by its thick forests that seem straight out of a fairy tale. The tall trees and dense undergrowth create a canopy that shelters a myriad of wildlife. I was captivated by the sights and sounds, from the chattering of monkeys overhead to the distant roar of lions. The variety of wildlife here is impressive, including rare sightings of the elusive bongo, leopards, and a healthy population of elephants that roam freely. One of the most memorable experiences was exploring the park's waterfalls. The Karuru Falls, a magnificent three-tiered waterfall, offers a breathtaking view as it plunges into the abyss below. The mist rising from the waterfall and the surrounding greenery made me feel like I was in another world. The park also offers a unique range of accommodations, from rustic lodges to luxurious tree hotels, where one can enjoy the unusual experience of watching animals visit the watering holes at night. Staying in a tree hotel and observing wildlife quietly from above was an experience unlike any other, providing both comfort and a thrilling sense of adventure. Additionally, the park's altitude offers a refreshing climate, which is a pleasant respite from the heat of the plains. Trekking through the moorlands provided panoramic views and encounters with the highland flora and fauna, adding a rugged touch to the lush forest experience. Aberdare National Park left an indelible mark on me with its enchanting forests, diverse wildlife, and stunning waterfalls. It's a less-traveled path that offers solitude and a deep connection with nature. This park is ideal for those who seek adventure in serene and spectacular settings.
Jackson Mwangi - 5
Aberdare National Park, nestled in central Kenya, offers a captivating blend of diverse landscapes, including lush forests, open moorlands, and cascading waterfalls. Home to an array of wildlife, from elephants to rare species like the bongo, it provides a unique and immersive safari experience, coupled with the allure of scenic beauty and vibrant birdlife.
Ian Maina - 5
A very scenic drive with great views and abundant wildlife. It's very therapeutic, affordable, and the main tracks are easily motorable in more or less any vehicle. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone who's looking to relax in the wild.
Rose Waswa - 5
Visited Raggia Falls. Two falls, an easy and slightly challenging second water fall. For a seasoned hiker, the terrain was easy. 😉 Go easy on the ascend and descent since the Oxygen levels fluctuates due to quick altitude changes. Overall, very calming to seat at the waterfall and hear.
