- 哈勒尔鬣狗人- 景点攻略Hyena Man of Harar
- 历史文化
- 5 评论
埃塞俄比亚哈勒尔鬣狗人喂食全攻略：走进海拔一千八百米的人兽共存现场
埃塞俄比亚东部的古城哈勒尔（Harar）海拔高度约为1885米。这里不仅拥有被联合国教科文组织列入名录的八十二座清真寺，更因一项延续半个多世纪的奇特传统闻名。每天太阳落山后的六点半到七点之间，当地的鬣狗人（Hyena Man）会准时出现在城墙外的空地上，召唤成群的斑点鬣狗前来进食。这种原本在荒野中极其危险的猛兽，在哈勒尔却展现出了令人难以置信的驯良一面。这种跨物种的互动并非单纯的表演，而是一场维持了数十年的和平契约。
这种跨越物种的默契到底是怎么来的
从预防冲突到传承三代的喂食习俗
说到哈勒尔喂食鬣狗的起源，当地人流传着不同的说法。最务实的版本可以追溯到十九世纪的饥荒时期，当时为了防止饥饿的鬣狗进城袭击家畜甚至人类，当地居民开始在城墙外投喂残羹剩饭。到了二十世纪六十年代，这项行为逐渐演变成了一种半职业化的仪式。最著名的鬣狗人家族已经传承了三代，现任的传承者阿巴斯（Abbas Yusuf）从小就在这些猛兽身边长大。对他来说这些动物不是威胁，而是有着各自名字和性格的老邻居。这种关系说白了就是一种博弈后的平衡，人类提供稳定的肉类来源，而鬣狗则保持着不进入内城骚扰的边界感。
为什么这群猛兽在哈勒尔不伤人
很多人担心这些斑点鬣狗的攻击性。实际上，哈勒尔的鬣狗长期以来已经适应了人类的存在，甚至养成了在城市排水沟中巡逻的习惯，它们充当了古城的自然清洁工，负责清理屠宰场丢弃的下脚料。根据当地研究观察，这种长期投喂让这群鬣狗的侵略性显著降低。虽然它们依然保留着强大的咬合力，能够轻易咬碎大腿骨，但在喂食点，它们表现得更像是等待开饭的家犬。当然，这种安全感是建立在鬣狗人长年的安抚与特定的呼唤声之上的，普通游客切不可自行尝试在其他地点挑逗它们。
现场观赏鬣狗人的实操细节与安全建议
具体喂食地点与每晚表演时间
目前哈勒尔主要的喂食点有两个，其中最出名的一个位于厄尔门（Erer Gate）附近的开阔草地。每天傍晚六点半左右，天色刚暗下来，游客就能听到林子里传来的低沉呼唤。这时候你可以看到几十只黑影在黑暗中穿梭。由于这里光线极差，建议带上具有出色夜拍性能的相机或手机。整个喂食过程通常持续一个小时左右，但最精彩的互动往往发生在刚开始的二十分钟，那时候鬣狗最活跃，抢食的动作也最频繁。
观看费用与互动时的注意事项
看一场喂食表演的门票价格并不固定，通常需要支付给鬣狗人100至200埃塞俄比亚比尔。如果想要近距离参与，比如让鬣狗人把肉条放在木棍上由你撑着喂食，或者更胆大一些让肉条叼在嘴里进行嘴对嘴喂食，通常需要额外支付一点小费。虽然现场看起来很安全，但你一定要听从向导和喂食者的指挥。千万不要在没得到允许的情况下伸手去摸鬣狗的后背或头部，哪怕它们看起来再温顺，毕竟它们依然是野性未泯的顶级掠食者。另外，当晚尽量不要穿着过于松垮或带有流苏的衣物，以免引起动物不必要的误判。
探访哈勒尔的交通衔接与游玩方案
从德雷达瓦或亚的斯亚贝巴出发的路线
去哈勒尔最稳妥的方式是先从亚的斯亚贝巴飞往德雷达瓦（Dire Dawa）。德雷达瓦机场离哈勒尔只有约55公里的路程，你可以直接在机场外面包一辆出租车，车程大约一个半小时。如果不打算包车，也可以去德雷达瓦的长途汽车站坐蓝色的小巴，价格便宜很多，但舒适度就别抱太大期望了。钱的问题也得算清楚，虽然埃塞俄比亚整体物价不高，但哈勒尔属于旅游重镇，尤其是进入旱季也就是十月到次年五月的旅游旺季，住宿最好提前联系好，免得临时到处找房。
顺道逛逛古城内的诗人故居与集市
如果仅仅为了看一眼鬣狗就走，那就太亏了。哈勒尔老城区的墙内世界（Harar Jugol）非常值得花上一整天去探索。这里有法国诗人兰波（Arthur Rimbaud）曾经居住过的宅邸，现在是一座充满艺术感的博物馆。古城里的巷子错综复杂，宽度仅够两人并行，颜色各异的墙面特别适合拍照。到了下午，可以去香料集市逛逛，或者找一家当地咖啡馆坐下，尝尝地道的哈勒尔咖啡。你会发现，这个城市白天的慢节奏与晚上喂食点的紧张氛围形成了一种迷人的反差。
常见问题
观看喂食鬣狗需要提前预约吗
通常不需要通过官方渠道预约，但建议通过你入住的宾馆或者当地向导联系。阿巴斯等喂食者每天都会准时出现，除非发生极罕见的宗教节日活动或极端天气。由于喂食点在城外黑暗区域，由向导带领前往会更加安全，也能帮你更好地进行价格沟通。
哈勒尔的治安状况适合自由行吗
哈勒尔在埃塞俄比亚属于相对稳定的地区，当地人对游客比较友好。但在古城狭窄的巷子里行走，最好还是找个当地持证向导，不仅能防止迷路，还能帮你挡掉那些过分热情的非正规导游。晚上看完鬣狗喂食后，建议直接打车回住处，不要在城墙外的黑暗区域逗留。
如果我想亲手喂食真的安全吗
在鬣狗人的监督和指导下，手持木棍喂食的风险是很低的。鬣狗对木棍上的肉更感兴趣，而非你的手。但所谓的嘴对嘴喂食则纯属胆量测试，并不建议普通游客尝试，因为动物的唾液中可能含有细菌。只要你保持冷静，不做出大幅度的突然动作，这些动物通常不会对人类产生敌意。
哈勒尔鬣狗人 用户评价
Redwan Jemal - 5
Unforgettable experience: The hyena feeding site is located a few meters outside the wall of Harar city through one of the five gates. We went around 8 in the evening and the hyenas were already there when we arrived. At first it was a little bit scary, but moments later we were already on our knees feeding one of the hyenas in turns. Feeding the hyenas from sticks in our hand and even in our mouth was something really special. The hyena man also dangeled meat above our head and the hyena jumped a little bit and even pushed our shoulder while trying to eat the meat. The payment the hyena man asked was too cheap compared to the nowhere else found peculiar opportunty he provide. And there is also a professional camera man that takes pictures and even share the softcopy with a very small payment. It is a must to visit this place for some one who gets the chance to see the city of Harar.
Mohammed Adus - 5
I have live in harar city deker village which is 5 km away from jegol harar hyena feeding site. This is well know or ancient city of harar with many tourists attraction around the world. All tourist around all country visit his place on time. I have also give guide or tour to some France Tourist. This is one of harar city beautiful attractions of tourist and ancient i love from this place i am proud of it. This place established for hundreds years by Yusuf pepe man for live of this place.
Niilo - 5
F.A.N.T.A.S.T.I.C. experience One-of-a-kind-in-life You can go there around 6pm, local Hyena men/boys are there already waiting the hyenas. The first animals will appear likely around sunset, and more will follow. As of Feb 2024 the price for locals is 200 birrs and foreigners 500 (~7€/$) (or less if you can haggle the right way). The feeding will continue until no meat is left, probably several hours anyway. You will get your change to feed the hyenas with a stick first from hand and then from mouth! Be CALM, don't make fast movements, and follow what the feeder man tells you. More than likely you will be surprised, how easy the feeding goes, and how respectful the big animals are Some POINTS •You will be surprised how tame and pet like the wild and feral hyenas are. They room freely around you and the Hyena men, feeling like a bit timid kittens. But remember - these are APEX predators. Spotted Hyenas are mainly hunters not scavengers like the rest of Hyenas, taking down buffalos and zebras with relative ease! Show respect, act calmly, follow the Hyena men instruction. •East access within few minutes walk from the gates of the walled old town •This is hard core! If anything happens, you may suffer life-threatening possibly deadly injury. Hyena can break the neck of a dog with one bite without breaking the skin. You're on your own on this. If something happens, you bear -possibly fatally - the consequences.
Nikita Payusov - 2
I went last night without a guide or taxi. The location is really close to the center of the city and it’s an easy 10-15 min walk and you’re always surrounded by buildings and people. I was the only foreigner and I had to pay 500 birr when everyone else paid 200 birr. They were much friendlier to the other people. They took some photos with flash of everyone for extra charge, but didn’t even offer this service to me. It seems that it’s developing into a tourist trap. P.S. Later I had a conversation with the owner of the guesthouse where I stayed and he was pretty upset that they charged me 500birr. He said that it was supposed to be 200birr no matter if you are a foreigner. Be careful when you’re negotiating a price!
Ryan Strom - 5
Abbas and his family (the family who run this experience are amazing). I was the first to arrive at 6:30 and then let me inside their home when the rain started. When I came out multiple hyenas were outside. Abbas knows then all by name and takes care and helps you feed them. It's a great experience. Note the price is now 300 birr. There is not a sign (that I saw but if you arrive at 6:30 or later there will be someone to help you). Easy walk from the city walls.
