多则村坐落在埃塞俄比亚南部的古格山脉,海拔高度大约在2600米左右。从阿尔巴门奇驱车出发往北走,大约需要40到60分钟就能抵达这片云雾缭绕的高地。这里不仅气候比山下的湖区凉爽许多,更保存着全非洲最独特的竹编建筑奇迹。对于人文摄影爱好者来说,多则人精湛的编织手艺和那长得像大象头一样的民居,是深入埃塞俄比亚南部绝不能错过的一站。
走进多则村最先映入眼帘的是那些高达12米的庞大建筑。这些房子完全由竹子和假香蕉树叶编织而成,形状像极了坐立的大象。屋顶上方有两个用来通风的小孔,看起来像大象的眼睛,而突出的门廊则像极了象鼻。这种设计不仅是为了美观,更是为了在高海拔潮湿气候下保持内部通风。多则人建房时不用一颗钉子,全靠熟练的编织技巧将竹条交错固定。
有趣的是这些房子是会随着时间变矮的。当地有一种体型细小的白蚁,专门啃食埋在地下的竹子底部。当房子的根基被蛀蚀后,多则人并不会拆掉重盖,而是动员左邻右舍一起把整座房子抬起来,削掉腐烂的底部再重新安放在地上。一座新房子的寿命通常在60年到80年之间。当你看到那些只有两三米高的矮房子时,那往往意味着这家人已经在这里住了几十年,房子已经因为白蚁的“食量”缩水了好几次。
多则人的饮食文化离不开一种叫作假香蕉的植物。虽然长得像香蕉树,但它并不结出可食用的果实,所有的精华都藏在巨大的茎秆里。多则女性会用木片刮下茎秆里的淀粉质,装进树叶包裹的土坑里埋起来。这些浆料需要在地下发酵3个月甚至更久,最长的甚至会发酵3年,直到产生一种独特的酸味。
发酵好的浆料被取出后会制成一种叫作科乔的饼食。在村子里的火塘边,你能亲眼看到她们把发酵后的面团放在炉板上烘烤。刚出炉的科乔饼吃起来口感类似韧性很强的发酵面包,带着微微的酸香。当地人通常会准备好一碗蜂蜜和一种叫作阿雷奇的烈酒来招待客人。喝这种烈酒时要小心,虽然口感清冽,但后劲很大。坐在火塘边一边撕着饼蘸蜂蜜,一边看着屋顶冒出的炊烟,是这里最地道的体验方式。
多则人在埃塞俄比亚被公认为最顶尖的织工。据相关统计,埃塞俄比亚全国大约有20%的传统棉纺织品出口都源于多则人的工艺贡献。这里的男人几乎人人都会用木制的织布机,他们在路边或院子里飞快地穿梭梭子,织出色彩斑斓的莎玛布。这种布料质地坚韧且保暖,非常适合高海拔地区的昼夜温差。如果你想买几件伴手礼,直接在村子里找手艺人购买比在亚的斯亚贝巴的礼品店要便宜将近一半。
想要感受最热闹的人文景观,选日子非常关键。距离多则村不远的陈查大集市在每周六和周二开放。周六的规模最大,成百上千的高地居民会背着木材、羊群和编织好的布料走上十几公里山路来交易。集市上很少有外来游客,这种原始而喧闹的物物交换场景能让你瞬间回到几百年前。建议清晨七点半就从阿尔巴门奇出发,那时候山间的雾气还没散尽,阳光穿透竹林照在集市上的光影效果最适合抓拍。
进入多则村通常需要向当地导游协会支付大约400至500比尔的导览费。这笔费用包含了参观传统民居、观看假香蕉饼制作流程以及编织演示。如果你计划在村里的民宿住一晚,标准间的价格通常在每晚20美元左右,包含简单的早餐。
多则村海拔超过2500米,白天的阳光很晒,但到了晚上温度会骤降至10摄氏度以下。即便是在最热的季节,清晨出发时也需要穿上厚卫衣或轻薄羽绒服。由于村内大多是泥路,建议穿着抓地力好的徒步鞋。这里一年有超过150天会有降雨或大雾,随身带一件防水雨衣会非常实用。
每年的10月到次年3月是埃塞俄比亚的旱季,也是探访多则村的最佳窗口。这段时间能见度高,从村子边缘的高地可以清晰地俯瞰到下方的查莫湖和阿拜亚湖。如果想看集市,一定要锁定周六前往。尽量避开6月到8月的雨季,那时候山路泥泞不堪,且经常因为浓雾导致视线受阻。
bk Med Very amazing reception from the local people representatives. Very hospitable and eager to show their life style.
Kidus Mulugeta I am guide and all my guests are happy because there is cultural weaving practice and making kocho traditional food that my guests would practice
Dori Travels Dorze was our first tribe we visited in Ethiopia. In the meantime we were there 2x with our family and unfortunately we can not recommend it. At least not this village where we were. You get a brief overview of how weaving is done, how it looks in the huts and how fake banana bread is made. We always had the impression that we are not welcome and it is only done because it must be done. Almost no friendly faces, no smiles. At the end of the tour you can dance with the singing women and dress up on traditionalDorze clothes. If you want to be involved, you can have fun. Apparently it's a tradition to drink some shots and sing loud toasts. Once we didn't want to drink liquor because it was still morning and we were scorned for it. Why can't a non-alcoholic option be offered? However, what bothered us extremely was the constant request to buy something or even more to support the village and give the woman big donationd for singing. Of course I understand that the people are dependent on donations. Here, however, it took place in such a penetrance that we really felt uncomfortable. No recommendations from us if this intrusiveness is not changed. Really a pity. And one last point: on the way up and down to the village, kids jump in front of your car to get some Birr for dancing. Please be super careful!
Aron Tamene Interesting place to vist. One hour driving from arbaminch. Beautiful land scape with nice views. The people of dorze are very nice. Highly recommend !!
Silvan Aemisegger a bit more than a one hour drive from arba minch you will find this dorze mender (village of the dorze people) which is absolutely worth a visit! if ever you should visit arba minch, take the chance: hire a local driver and visit the village. after leaving arba minch you will drive 20 minutes alongside lake abaye in the plain of the main ethiopian rift. from there, the street climbs about 1100 meter (with an amazing view over the valley) to the village of chencha. the dorze village is an „open-air museum“. you will be welcomed by a tour guide, who will introduce you to some main aspects of the dorze culture, such as housing and construction (the elephant-shaped bamboo houses), food (enset, kocho), weaving and dancing. the whole trip will take you at least half a day. some may say, the guided tour is a pure performance of the village people. my opinion is: yes, it is an open-air museum. but it is definitely an impressive experience, which teaches a lot about the beautiful dorze culture. and it was a feast for the eyes to see the beautiful handicrafted textiles (shemane). many things you will see there, you can also find in the ethiopian culture (e.g. kocho). and last but not least: the dorze village is a cooperative. by taking the tour, you will support the whole cooperative. all in all, it is a very worthwhile experience!