- 米利尔文野生动物保护区- 景点攻略Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
- 自然风光
- 5 评论
斯威士兰米利尔文野生动物保护区(Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary)自由行深度指南
米利尔文野生动物保护区坐落在斯威士兰的埃祖尔韦尼山谷（Ezulwini Valley），占地面积大约有4560公顷。这里是斯威士兰（现更名为埃斯瓦蒂尼）最早建立的自然保护区，历史可以追溯到1961年。说真的，米利尔文和你印象中那种需要躲在越野车里观察猛兽的非洲大草原完全不同。因为这里基本没有狮子、大象或水牛等攻击性强的猛兽，所以它成了非洲极少数允许游客自由下车徒步、骑行甚至骑马观察动物的地方。
避开铁壳子的束缚去拥抱荒野
在四千公顷土地上自由散步
大多数非洲国家公园的规矩是严禁下车，但在米利尔文，你完全可以凭自己的双脚去丈量这片土地。这里的地形从海拔约600米的平原一直延伸到将近1450米的尼永亚尼山峰（Nyonyane Mountain）。走在小径上，迎面遇上一群正在低头吃草的斑马或者翘着尾巴的疣猪是再正常不过的事情。这种没有隔离感的体验非常奇妙，你可以清晰地听到野猪拱土的声音，或者近距离观察长角羚羊那如同艺术品般的皮毛纹理。
骑上山地车去追赶斑马群
如果觉得走路太累，在接待处租一辆山地车是个绝佳选择。这里的骑行路径规划得很合理，即使是平时不怎么运动的人也能轻松驾驭。蹬着脚踏车在红土地上穿行，两边是成群的黑马羚和跳羚，那种清风拂面的自由感比坐在封闭的游猎车里强出不少。建议早晨八点左右出发，那时候气温只有二十摄氏度上下，体感最舒服，而且动物们也正处于最活跃的觅食期。
实用的游玩策略与细节建议
住宿与门票的那些事儿
钱的问题得算清楚。目前进入米利尔文的成人门票大约是70里兰吉尼（数值随汇率和季节波动，建议出发前查看官网最新信息）。如果你打算在这里过夜，那选择可就多了。最推荐尝试的是当地传统的蜂巢屋（Beehive Huts），这种圆顶草房从外面看像个巨大的馒头，里面却设施齐全。住在里面最深刻的感受是安静，到了深夜，只能听到远处河马在水塘里的喷水声。如果你追求更高端的体验，半山腰上的莱利岩石旅馆（Reilly's Rock Hilltop Lodge）能俯瞰整个山谷，那种视野真的没话说。
什么时候去最合适
聊聊季节的选择。斯威士兰的季节和我们是反着的。五月到八月是这里的旱季，草木枯黄，视野非常开阔，也是观察河马和鳄鱼的黄金期，因为它们大多会缩在几个固定的水塘附近。虽然早晚温差大，清晨六点半出发时可能冷到需要抱着热水杯，但阳光出来后就非常惬意。十一月到次年三月是雨季，大地一片翠绿，虽然可能会遇到午后雷阵雨，但此时是各种幼年动物出生的时节，整个保护区充满了生机。
常见问题
没向导能自己进保护区走吗
完全可以。米利尔文是斯威士兰极少数允许游客在没有向导的情况下，自由进行徒步或骑行探索的保护区，因为这里没有狮子、大象等大型食肉或危险动物，你可以自由穿梭在约4560公顷的范围内。不过为了保险起见，出发前记得在接待处拿一张最新的路径地图。
门票价格是多少钱
这里的成人门票目前大约是70里兰吉尼。如果你持有南非及周边通用的Wild Card，可以直接凭卡免票进入，不再额外收取入园费。由于价格可能会根据保护区的维护成本有所微调，出发前最好去官方旅游局网站确认一下实时价格。
这里的动物种类多吗
虽然你看不到非洲五霸，但米利尔文的生物多样性依然很丰富。这里生活着大量的斑马、疣猪、尼阿拉鹿、跳羚以及多种稀有的水鸟。在水塘附近，你几乎百分之百能看到河马和巨大的尼罗鳄。对于喜欢观鸟的人来说，这里记录到了超过400种鸟类，绝对够你看上一整天。
去米利尔文需要准备什么装备
建议穿一双舒适的防滑徒步鞋，因为部分通往尼永亚尼山的路径石块较多。防晒霜和大沿帽子是必备的，即使是冬天，南非高原的紫外线也相当厉害。另外记得随身带一瓶至少1升的水，园内虽然有餐厅，但在长达几公里的徒步路径上并没有补给点。
米利尔文野生动物保护区 用户评价
Robbert Lens - 2
(Please read to the end before considering booking and save yourself a bitter aftertaste) Let's start the review on a positive note; the traditional cabins are quite fun and comfortable. Although the appliances and bathrooms are functional, they are old and look used up (rusty sinks etc.) The "game sanctuary" itself is very basic, there are only antelopes and a few zebras and crocodiles but not at all in big numbers. Don't expect a park full of wildlife. Next to that, there is no real way to explore the full park without a 4x4 vehicle, forcing you to go on an overpriced "safari". When talking about price, please be aware that the park charges a premium for very mediocre breakfast, lunch and dinner. Especially a problem as you're not allowed to bring outside drinks to the park. Activities are also very overpriced. Lastly, but most importantly... The staff... I've never met such hostile staff in my life. Maybe it's the busses full of self-entitled tourists they're used to but hospitality is basically nonexistent. The staff is incredibly rude and treats you like just a bag full of cash, trying to get the most out of it with the least effort possible. We read this in other reviews and thought it must have been due to the people, but it definitely wasn't. The staff is just plain rude. We definitely recommend you save your money and go for something else. After staying here for 2 days it left us with a bitter aftertaste.
Ferdinand Horstenkamp - 5
We booked a 2.5 hours long guided walking tour through the reserve. Our tour guide named Deli was very well-educated, showed us around and explained to us the history of the park, everything about the animals and the history of Eswatini. The Reserve is wonderful and Deli is kind and humorous and made the tour truly a remarkable experience.
Janneke - 5
It was fabulous to discover this game sanctuary on horseback, during our two hour guided tour by Madja/Maja. He was very happy and knowledgeable, learned us a lot about the environment and animals. It was an experience to never forget!
MellyMaxx - 5
The most stunning place to have a picnic with family and friends in Eswatini while watching wild animals and cooling off in the swimming pool. Mliwane offers beautiful scenery and fun activities to enjoy your stay, such as horse riding, bike riding, game drive, etc. Note that alcohol beverages are not allowed at the picnic area. I will definitely visit again, loved it😍
Nina Kochetkova - 5
One of the most amazing places I've been to in the world! A perfect balance of nature and comfort... We stayed at a house for 3 people, the beds were great and everything was spotless. Animals roam freely everywhere! The territory is huge with all sorts of trails... Fabulous! We explored it for hours. The restaurant offers a nice variety of healthy food. Thanks, everyone who made our stay unforgettable! ❤️
