塞罗卡斯蒂略国家公园 - 景点攻略
Cerro Castillo National Park
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塞罗卡斯蒂略国家公园：巴塔哥尼亚北端的徒步秘境
塞罗卡斯蒂略国家公园（Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo）位于智利南部艾森大区（Aysén），距离大区首府科伊艾克（Coyhaique）以南约64公里，总面积143,502公顷。它最醒目的标志，是一组海拔2,675米的玄武岩尖峰，远看像一座石头城堡，公园也因此得名。1970年6月19日，这里以“塞罗卡斯蒂略国家森林保护区”的身份设立，2018年7月7日通过第8号法令重新归类为国家公园，正式加入智利“公园之路”网络。说真的，在智利南部的诸多徒步目的地里，它的可达性和风景密度的比例相当出挑。
冰川与火山塑造出的“石头城堡”
地貌是怎么来的
这片区域的地形骨架，是冰川反复侵蚀留下的产物。数万年前覆盖山体的冰盖退去后，留下了U形谷、冰碛垄和悬挂冰川，罗温加河（Río Ibáñez）谷地两侧的岩壁被磨得陡峭而破碎。塞罗卡斯蒂略主峰由玄武岩柱状节理构成，顶端一圈石塔排开，像城墙上的垛口。公园内还有几处仍在消退的冰川，比如埃尔佩尼翁冰川（El Peñón），悬在湖面之上，天气好的时候能看到冰体崩落。
公园的三个独立区块
公园由三个互不相连的地块组成：埃利萨尔德湖（Lago Elizalde）、帕洛马湖（Lago Paloma）和塞罗卡斯蒂略主区块。游客活动和步道网络集中在主区块，也就是别墅塞罗卡斯蒂略村（Villa Cerro Castillo）附近。埃利萨尔德湖和帕洛马湖两个区块访问难度更高，普通旅行者通常不会涉足。
南美山毛榉与森林中的“活地毯”
海拔900米以下，山坡被伦加（lenga）和尼尔雷（ñirre）两种南美山毛榉覆盖。这里的森林有一种特别的气质，树干上挂满苔藓，地面踩上去像海绵，空气湿度很高。海拔再往上，森林过渡为垫状植物和泥炭藓构成的苔原。也正因为植被完整，这里成了智利最重要的南麂鹿（huemul）栖息地之一。2021年《纽约时报》把塞罗卡斯蒂略列入2022年值得去的旅游目的地，特别提到智利农业畜牧服务局、国家林业局和雷维丁智利基金会在南麂鹿保护上的合作。
如何抵达公园
坐飞机与转车
最近的机场是巴尔马塞达机场（Balmaceda，代码BBA），距公园主入口拉斯奥尔克塔斯（Las Horquetas）约半小时车程。从机场到科伊艾克约55公里，再沿南方公路（Carretera Austral，即7号公路）向南。也可以从科伊艾克直接坐巴士到别墅塞罗卡斯蒂略村，票价约8,000智利比索，车程约2小时。
自驾与公共交通
沿7号公路南下，在64公里处能看到拉斯奥尔克塔斯入口，这里也是4天环线的起点。另一个主入口在别墅塞罗卡斯蒂略村附近，通往帕拉达溪（Estero Parada）方向。村子里的加油站和登山口零食店可以刷信用卡，但小商店只收现金，出发前多换点比索比较稳妥。
步道选择：从一日往返到四天环线
拉古纳观景台步道（Mirador Laguna）
这是公园最热门的一日路线，往返13公里，爬升1,122米，官方给出的参考时长约7小时。前半段穿过伦加林，后半段走上碎石坡，终点是卡斯蒂略湖的观景台，能同时看到绿松石色的湖水和悬挂冰川。入口在别墅塞罗卡斯蒂略村外约4公里处，沿埃尔博斯克（El Bosque）小路进。爬升集中在前6.5公里，节奏别太猛，海拔900米之后风会变大。我自己的经验是，早上8点前出发最稳，因为护林员对开始登山的时间有截止，入口开放时间为8:00至12:00。
帕拉达溪步道（Estero Parada）
往返22公里，难度中等偏高，适合想走长线但不想挤四天环线的人。沿途穿过伦加林、跨过溪流，也可以在指定营地过夜看星空。这条路线对体能的消耗比观景台步道大，预留一整天比较现实。
拉斯奥尔克塔斯穿越线（Travesía Las Horquetas）
这是公园的招牌路线，全长约51到53公里，需3到4天，难度中高。沿途要翻两个海拔较高、暴露感强的山口，碎石坡和强风是主要挑战。营地分布在罗温加河、内瓦多（El Nevado）等地，需提前通过官方预订系统安排。每年11月下旬到次年4月下旬对自助徒步者开放，具体日期每个季度微调。过了4月，这条线基本关闭自助进入，只能随向导。
门票、开放时间与预约规则
票价
公园实行在线售票，一日票外国游客21,250智利比索，智利本国游客17,750比索；两日票外国游客29,750比索，本国游客26,250比索。12岁以下、老年人、残障人士和注册导游可享受8,750比索的优惠价，需出示证明。如果从一条步道进、另一条步道出，必须买两日票。
时间与天气窗口
入口开放时间普遍为8:00到12:00，护林员对最晚开始登山有截止，通常为13:00。最佳徒步季节是12月到3月，气温较温和、白昼长。5月到10月实行冬季管理协议，部分步道关闭或需额外登记。天气变化快，一天里经历小雨、大风和晴天不稀奇，防水外套和抓地好的鞋比什么都重要。
常见问题
塞罗卡斯蒂略国家公园需要提前买票吗？
需要。一日票和两日票都在官方售票平台在线销售，外国游客一日票21,250智利比索。拉斯奥尔克塔斯环线必须购买覆盖至少3天的门票，并在抵达前完成预订。护林员在入口验票，登山途中还会二次检查。
从科伊艾克到公园当天往返可行吗？
可行，但只适合走拉古纳观景台步道。从科伊艾克坐2小时巴士到别墅塞罗卡斯蒂略村，再走13公里往返、爬升1,122米的路线，全程约7小时，时间偏紧。更稳妥的做法是在村里住一晚，第二天一早进山。
公园里有地方露营吗？
有，但只能在指定营地扎营，主要集中在拉斯奥尔克塔斯环线沿线，比如罗温加河营地和内瓦多营地。营地配有划定营位、桌子和简易厕所，需提前预订。指定区域之外扎营被禁止，目的是保护原生植被。
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塞罗卡斯蒂略国家公园 |用户评价
We went in a 4x2, so we had to leave our cars in the private parking lot and pay $5,000 per vehicle. Then, we walked about 2 km to enter the park. We had bought our tickets online, so we had no problem getting in. We did the Laguna viewpoint trail, which is incredible and also intense. They say it's 6.5 km each way, but I'd say it's a bit more. Not recommended for beginners or people with limited mobility; 99% of the trail is steep. The price was quite high for a "bathroom" at kilometer 5, which wasn't open on the way up, only on the way down. There's also drinking water there.
Nice park. I bought my ticket online. After they checked my ticket I had to write down my name and passport number. In a few minutes this was done. After the walk I had to sign it. We went to the closest parking with a Volkswagen t cross , so NOT a 4x4 🙈 It was very dry so we had no problems with our car but I would not recommend it when it’s wet because the way back is very steep, but short. I took a picture but it’s difficult to see how steep it is. But believe me it’s steeps. I had to give a lot of gas 😀
A good trek with beautiful views, although quite challenging. From the parking lot, it's a kilometer to the trailhead unless you have a 4x4. What detracts from the beauty of the route is the exorbitant entrance fee of 16,500 Chilean pesos for a 6-hour hike to the lagoon viewpoint. Furthermore, the sign at the entrance indicates that there are restrooms and water available at kilometer 5, but there was no water. Overall, I don't recommend it for that price. No other national park charges such a high entrance fee.
The 2 stars are because the view is very beautiful. If you're lucky, you'll have great views of the valley. The negative, however, was the far too high entrance fee of 18,000 pesos. Yesterday I went hiking for free and the view was even more beautiful. Unfortunately, the signs to the parking lot with the 4x4 are not that obvious and impossible to understand as a foreigner. I drove through, so I had to push my car back up the mountain. After that, however, I had technical problems with my car!!! I then walked to the entrance of the national park because I had no reception, WiFi, etc. I was able to use the WiFi to write to my rental car agency that I had a technical problem. Suddenly a girl comes into the ranger's office. They speak in Spanish and then she leaves the room again. The guide said that he unfortunately had to ask me to leave the information center because the WiFi was limited. So I was unable to finally clarify everything with my rental car company. It's really sad how unhuman someone can be.
I have spent 2 days in the park. The 1st day I started from the Cerro Castillo entrance till the Laguna Cerro Castillo and then I returned from the Parade Estero passing from Morro Negro. The 2nd day I started from Prada Estero till Laguna Duff and I went back in the same path. Beautiful experience, at least one day you have to spend here. It is just too expensive the ticket, for this I have put 4 stars
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