如果你厌倦了由全包式度假村堆砌出的流水线海岛,那么坦桑尼亚桑给巴尔岛(Zanzibar)东南海岸的江比阿尼(Jambiani),或许是你灵魂的最后栖息地。这里没有努格维(Nungwi)的喧嚣,也不像帕杰(Paje)那样充斥着派对狂欢。江比阿尼是一首关于绿松石色大海、白色沙滩和古老渔村的散文诗。
逃离喧嚣,回归本真
在桑给巴尔,海滩的选择往往决定了你假期的基调。如果说 Paje 是风筝冲浪者和年轻背包客的社交中心,那么 Jambiani 就是那些渴望“隐世感”旅行者的天堂。这里的海岸线绵延 7 公里,大部分时间里,你只能听到印度洋的涛声和棕榈叶的沙沙声。
体验“Pole Pole”的生活哲学
斯瓦希里语中的“Pole Pole”意为“慢慢来”。在 Jambiani,时间仿佛变得粘稠。你将与当地村民共享这片海滩——孩子们在沙滩上踢足球,渔民修补着渔网,妇女们在退潮时采集海藻。这种生活感,是你在封闭式五星级酒店里绝对体验不到的。
Jambiani 的潮汐落差极大,这对游泳是挑战,对探索者却是恩赐。低潮(Low Tide)时,海水会退去数公里,裸露出洁白的沙洲和色彩斑斓的潮间带。你可以步行走到深海处,沿途观察海星、海胆和在水洼中被困的小鱼。这种“行走在海底”的体验,既超现实又治愈。
距离海滩仅几公里,隐藏着一个古老的石灰岩洞穴——Kuza Cave。这里并非普通的地质景点,而是一个充满灵性的天然泳池。清澈见底的淡水呈现出不可思议的电光蓝。除了游泳,你还可以欣赏当地乐手的鼓乐表演,甚至看到珍稀的红疣猴(Red Colobus Monkey)在洞口树梢跳跃。
Jambiani 是桑给巴尔海藻养殖的核心区。每天低潮时,当地妇女身着色彩鲜艳的Kanga(康加布),在浅滩中照料海藻田。这一独特的劳作场景是人文摄影的绝佳素材。建议参加当地的 Seaweed Centre 之旅,了解这些海藻如何变成出口全球的高级护肤品原料。
不要错过乘坐传统的木质独桅帆船(Dhow)出海。这是斯瓦希里海岸千百年来的标志。你可以租船前往附近的蓝泻湖(Blue Lagoon)进行浮潜。那里的泻湖水浅且平静,珊瑚礁保护完好,仿佛游在一个巨大的天然水族箱中。
虽然 Paje 是风筝冲浪之都,但 Jambiani 共享着同样的季风(Kaskazi 和 Kusi),却拥有更为空旷的海域。对于初学者来说,这里不拥挤的水面意味着更少的碰撞风险和更轻松的学习环境。
住宿推荐
必吃美食
Jambiani 不是一个适合匆忙打卡的地方。它需要你赤脚踩在沙滩上,关掉手机,让印度洋的海风吹散所有的焦虑。这里,就是你在非洲的那个“远方”。
Mark Duke It’s a great beach and when you are there, I would recommend when you want some souvenirs handle with the two Masai Allypapaa & Mwenga ( picture below). They are great young men with big hearts. They make hand carved wooden signs and jewelry. The prices are reasonable and you can bargain with them for a good price for you and them. They are very reliable and just great guys, after you buy from them they leave you alone and always greet you when they come by. Tell them you come from Duke and you will see them smile.☺️☺️☺️
Caroline Crutchley It's a weird one!! The tidal sway is massive. In March the water is in early morning and back in after 4pm. So 5pm is a good time to swim in the very warm water. It's long and can take at least 3 hours to walk. But fascinating to watch locals collect seaweed at low tide.
Alex Thiel Relaxed beach area with a tranquil feel.
Fau “Flower” A very beautiful beach. Not crowded and very friendly local people. Watch out while walking on the beach because there can be sharp objects. It's a pity people leave litter. So wear water shoes.
Alexandra Dumitru The beach is nice. Sometimes you can swim, other times you can look up for shells and tide leftovers. Not so nice is the road to it. Seems like there are two different worlds. One side you can see luxury resorts, instagrammable beach with palm trees, but on the other side you can see the poverty of the people who are living there