恩加雷塞罗瀑布(Ngare Sero Waterfall)坐落在坦桑尼亚北部的纳特龙湖(Lake Natron)南岸,距离阿鲁沙(Arusha)大约有六到八小时的颠簸车程。这道瀑布隐藏在东非大裂谷深达六百米的峡谷裂缝中,与周围荒凉、干旱甚至带点硫磺味的碱性湖泊环境形成强烈对比。瀑布的名字在马赛语中意为蔓延之水,形象地描述了水源从峡谷流向平原最后汇入纳特龙湖的过程。这里海拔只有六百米左右,常年气温极高,溯溪前往瀑布成了探访伦盖火山(Ol Doinyo Lengai)的旅行者们最期待的降温项目。
前往恩加雷塞罗瀑布并不是那种修好了栈道的轻松散步,而是一场实打实的溯溪徒步。往返总里程大约五公里,通常需要两小时左右。按照当地社区规定,必须在马赛向导的带领下才能进入峡谷。清晨或午后三点出发比较明智,能躲开最毒辣的日头。徒步过程中,你会沿着赛托提河(Saitoti River)逆流而上,河水有时只没过脚踝,有时则深及腰部。向导会凭借经验带你踩在稳固的岩石上,避开那些湿滑的火山灰堆积处。这种与水亲密接触的体验在极度干燥的北坦桑尼亚非常罕见。
当你穿行在陡峭的红褐色岩壁之间,眼前的景色会从枯黄的稀树草原迅速切换成绿意盎然的世外桃源。峡谷深处生长着茂密的野棕树和蕨类植物,偶尔还能见到沙漠玫瑰在旱季绽放出深粉色的花朵。瀑布分为上下两层,主瀑布的冲击力非常强劲,站在下面就像在接受天然的高压按摩。瀑布下方形成的天然泳池水质清澈,池底是圆润的卵石,由于水温凉爽且没有野生动物威胁,这里成了纳特龙湖地区最安全也最舒服的天然浴场。
钱的问题得提前算清楚。进入纳特龙湖保护区通常需要支付约三十五美元的社区费或活动费,这笔费用通常包含了瀑布徒步的许可。如果你是通过旅行社预订的行程,这部分往往已经涵盖在内。此外,根据惯例需要给马赛向导大约十到二十美元的小费。由于该地区极其偏远,没有手机信号和自动取款机,所有费用最好在阿鲁沙出发前就准备好充足的先令或美金现金。建议在这里至少停留两个晚上,因为光是往返的颠簸路程就足以让人筋疲力尽,留出完整的一天给瀑布和火烈鸟观测才不虚此行。
选对鞋子决定了这次体验的好坏。普通运动鞋湿透后会变得异常沉重,翻车率极高,所以强烈建议穿着专业的防滑溯溪鞋或带绑带的户外凉鞋。说到拍照装备,防水袋是救命稻草。峡谷内水汽很重,且有多处需要涉水行进,手机和相机必须全程密封,只在拍照时取出。每年六月到十月的旱季是最佳游玩窗口,此时河水流量适中,路面不至于因泥泞而无法通行。清晨六点半出发时可能还有些许凉意,但只要太阳升起,那种灼热感会立刻让你觉得跳进瀑布池是一天中最正确的决定。
是的,这是强制性要求。当地马赛社区负责管理这片峡谷,向导不仅能确保你在错综复杂的河道中不迷路,还能在水位上涨或岩石湿滑时提供必要的安全协助,这也是支持当地马赛人就业的一种方式。
完全可以游泳。瀑布下方的天然池深度适中,池底没有危险的淤泥或尖锐杂物,水温在二十五摄氏度左右,非常清爽,是缓解攀登伦盖火山后肌肉酸痛的理想场所。
难度属于中等。五公里的路程虽然不长,但因为涉及多次涉水和在乱石堆中攀爬,需要一定的平衡感。只要身体健康,普通成年人和十岁以上的儿童都能在两小时内完成挑战。
峡谷内部基本没有大型野生动物,相对安全。不过在前往峡谷入口的开阔地上,经常能看到成群的斑马、长颈鹿以及各种色彩斑斓的食蜂鸟,这让前往瀑布的驱车路程本身也变成了一场小型游猎。
Rolands Abolins Very fun activity if you have 2-3 hours spare. The hike to the falls is just next to the river and often times through the river (so don't forget to take spare shoes). You can swim under the waterfall which is quite cool and the water is quite warm.
Sadashiv N A wonderful waterfall near Lake Natron. We enjoyed our time bathing there. Many waterfalls in Tanzania I have visited weren't considered safe to enter and so it was great to be able to stand right under the falls and swim there. The hike is a little tricky and involves crossing the river a couple of times, so I recommend having waterproof shoes on (or brave it barefoot!). It is also best to go there in the afternoon to enjoy the cool waters in the heat!
Mathias Ngurumwa Engaresero waterfall is a place you must visit! Walking along the gorge and crossing water several times till you reach the waterfall is very refreshing. The shower of the waterfall and the pool is giving you a chance to swim in that romantic place. Shorts will perfect outfit since water will come above your knees in some points, you need water shoes, and your swimming suit.
kelvin Sinodya (Lake Natron Flamingos) Engaresero waterfall's,the waterfall is located south west of Lake Natron.This is the best place to cool down the body temperature,by swimming in the natural swimming pool during the afternoon.Any time during the day you can visit there but afternoon is highly recommend because of the nature of this place. Afternoon is very hot around here, that's why is likely to visit there afternoon time. YOUR WELCOME TO LAKE NATRON, Kelvin-The local guide.
Esther O 45 min to 1 hour walk from the drop off point but it is well worth it. Just make sure you have nonslip shoes and swimming custom/trunks. Wild dust storms when it's dry.... Don't know how it it when it's rainy