南非斯科蒂亚野生动物保护区(Schotia Safaris Private Game Reserve)位于东开普省,紧邻著名的阿多大象国家公园(Addo Elephant National Park)。虽然它的名气在国际上或许不如克鲁格,但在资深旅行者眼中,这里才是近距离观察狮子与体验南非传统丛林氛围的绝佳选择。作为该省份最古老的私人野生动物保护区,斯科蒂亚的历史可以追溯到19世纪初,目前的经营者已经是班(Bean)家族的第六代传人。自1986年正式对外开放驱车游猎以来,这里就以牙齿与利爪(Tooth and Claw)之旅闻名遐迩。
相比于国家公园动辄十几万公顷的辽阔,斯科蒂亚大约1600公顷的面积显得非常精致。正是这种精悍的规模,保证了极高的动物可见率。如果你在隔壁的阿多公园转了一整天都没见到狮子的影子,那么斯科蒂亚基本能帮你圆梦。这里不只是看动物,更像是一场深入南非农场主家族传承的私家探险,空气里都飘着一种老派、质朴且生猛的旷野气息。
斯科蒂亚是开普省第一个引入狮子自由漫步的私人保护区。即便已经过去了将近40年,这里的狮子种群依然是整个景点的核心卖点。由于领地范围相对可控,向导们对狮群的习性和动态了如指掌。这里的狮子对越野车非常习惯,有时甚至会就在车轮边不远处的草丛里打盹,这种压迫感和震撼力是大型国家公园难以提供的。除了狮子,保护区内还栖息着非洲水牛、犀牛、长颈鹿、河马和超过14种羚羊,动物总数超过2000头,是名副其实的高密度动物天堂。
很多游客会纠结是去阿多还是去斯科蒂亚。事实上,这两者最好的游玩方式是结合在一起。阿多大象公园以超过600头的大象规模著称,但在茂密的灌木丛中寻找肉食动物往往需要极大的运气。而斯科蒂亚弥补了这一短板。两地边界相连,很多一日游行程会安排上午在阿多看大象,下午两点半左右进入斯科蒂亚开启肉食动物狩猎模式。这种动静结合、草食与肉食交替的节奏,能在一天之内让你看遍非洲五霸的大多数成员。
斯科蒂亚最经典的行程莫过于下午出发的半日游巡游。通常在下午14点30分或15点左右,游客在接待处集合。这个时间点选得非常精妙,随着阳光逐渐斜射,正是食草动物活跃、食肉动物开始苏醒准备捕猎的序幕。向导会驾驶开放式的路虎越野车带你离开主路,钻进茂密的灌木丛或开阔的草地。这种没有挡风玻璃和侧窗的体验,能让你瞬间闻到灌木的香气,听到远处公牛的低吼。
游猎大约持续两个多小时后,会有一次短暂的茶歇和如厕时间。随后随着日落,真正的重头戏夜间巡游(Night Drive)就开始了。向导会使用强力射灯在黑暗中搜寻动物。你会看到跳兔像袋鼠一样在车前蹦跳,或者在射灯余光中对上一双发亮的狮子眼睛。巡游结束后,大家会被带到名为拉帕(Lapa)的茅草屋。这里没有奢华的装潢,只有熊熊燃烧的火堆、大锅烹制的传统南非炖肉和温暖的咖啡。在旷野的星空下,听着远处河马的呼吸声吃一顿晚餐,这种原始的满足感是任何高级餐厅都给不了的。
目前斯科蒂亚的半日游价格大约在2500至2800南非兰特之间。这个价格虽然看着不低,但包含了约六小时的带导游巡游、入场费、茶歇以及一顿丰盛的丛林晚餐,性价比其实很高。建议至少提前一周在官网或通过伊丽莎白港的旅行社预订,尤其是如果你想在保护区内留宿的话。保护区内的住宿选择包括充满野趣的长颈鹿帐篷营地和相对舒适的灌木小屋,价格通常从每晚4500兰特起步,包含一日三餐和多次游猎。
在斯科蒂亚游玩,最容易被忽视的就是防寒。东开普省的昼夜温差极大。下午三点出发时可能还烈日炎炎,但一旦日落,开阔式越野车带起的凉风会迅速带走体温。即便是在夏季,晚上回程时也需要一件防风挡雨的外套。如果是冬季(5月至9月),保暖内衣、厚外套甚至围巾都是必需品。保护区会提供毯子,但在时速40公里的风中,单靠毯子是坐不住的。此外,虽然这里是无疟疾区,但夏天蚊虫依然活跃,长裤长袖既防晒也能防虫。
这两者不可互相替代。阿多大象公园胜在规模宏大和象群震撼,适合自驾和观察大象生态;斯科蒂亚则主打私人向导服务和狮子观赏,包含夜间巡游和丛林餐饮,体验更丰富立体。如果你时间有限且想确保看到狮子,选斯科蒂亚;如果你喜欢自由探索和看成群的大象,选阿多。建议参加包含两地的全天团,价格约3900兰特左右,最为省心。
标准的牙齿与利爪之旅通常持续约6到7个小时。下午14点30分左右在接待中心集合,随后进行约4小时的日间和黄昏游猎,中间有15分钟茶歇。晚上19点左右在拉帕营地享用晚餐,餐后再进行约45分钟的夜间射灯搜寻,通常在晚上21点左右结束并返回接待处。如果是住宿客人,第二天清晨通常还会有一次约两小时的晨间驱车巡游。
不是。斯科蒂亚的狮子是完全自由活动的,它们在约1600公顷的范围内自行捕食和繁殖。虽然保护区有围栏与外界农场隔开,但在保护区内部,狮子与斑马、羚羊等猎物的博弈是完全自然的。由于狮子处于食物链顶端且没有天敌,加上保护区面积适中,向导非常容易发现它们,但这绝不等同于动物园式的观赏,每次看到的场景都是不可预知的自然行为。
斯科蒂亚距离伊丽莎白港(现称纳尔逊·曼德拉湾)约60公里,车程在45分钟到一个小时之间。如果你没有租车,大多数旅行社都提供港口或酒店的往返接送服务,费用通常已经包含在全天团费中或额外支付约500兰特左右。自驾的话,路况非常好,沿着N2公路行驶即可轻松到达。如果是乘坐邮轮到港的游客,预订时务必确认接送时间,以免错过船期。
Yolanda Komen We had a couple of excellent sightings and the rangers were knowledgable and shared quite a bit of information I had not heard before. Schotia have a very diverse range of antelope that you do not get to see at other game reserves, or so diverse. What was sad is that the ranger just drove past most of them and even when asked if we could make a point of stopping on the last day when it was just the two of us and the ranger, it did not happen. The game drive with just the two of us felt rushed. The dinner at the boma was very good. Food was tasty. Meat preparation could have been a bit more diverse. We had medium rare and some people struggled with this. Reception service needs to be improved. Booking confirmation took several days. For the price one pays the welcome area could be improved. Luggage can be taken through to rooms while we are on drives to avoid a 40 min drive in the freezing cold after dinner to fetch luggage. Not healthy for my 80 year old mom. She also tripped in the dark, at the rooms as the pathway was not well lit. We were left to take the luggage off the truck and take it to the room. Not exactly 5 star service. To summarise Game 5 stars Ranger knowledge 5 Game drive 4 stars (rushed) Boma dinner 4 stars Reception and booking 2 stars Arrival amd check in to rooms 1 star
S L Absolutely unforgettable experience!! Everything was top-notch from the beginning, they’ve gone out of their way to make our experiences the greatest possible. Literally upon passing the first gate, we saw animals. And they are coming close! This is the advantage of a private game reserve, to be honest. National parks are great, but you have to be very lucky to constantly get close-up views. Within minutes, first elephants and lions. Our guide Zane is an extremely knowledgeable guide who’s absolutely dedicated to his job. His passion and sense of humour have made every single minute an entertainment. Dinner was a dream, so was the lodge for the night, both much more than I had expected. I was fortunate to have had Schotia recommended to me and will never forget those incredible days. If you’re in the Port Elizabeth area, this is a must-do!
Santiago Mercante Absolutely recommended. The place is prepared for tourists, the guides are knowledgeable, safe and passionate about their work. The vehicles are in very good condition. The property consists of several hectares with subdivisions, the landscape is fabulous. Various types of serfs and antelopes, elephants, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, lions, crocodiles, and more are seen. Plus, dinner is a beautiful time and a nice place in the middle of the countryside. The visit without camping is from 3 to 9 p.m. with dinner included and costs USD$135. It is highly recommended.
Dana Baumann It was a breathtaking experience. We had a very nice, funny and incredibly dedicated local guide called Charl who showed us lions, zebras, antelopes, rhinos, hippos, giraffes and many other animals. He also gave us very interesting informations and was able to answer all our questions about the landscape and the animals in detail. The highlight for us was being able to see a lion family with their 1-month-old baby. The Schotia-Team respectfully kept distance from the animals and asked us to be quiet as soon as we get near them. We can highly recommend the tour and would book it again every time.
Ting Ting Please read my review before heading down. If you are just doing Tooth&Claw safari tour with them, you will need to check in at 2.30pm. Guided drive will commence from 3pm to 5pm. There will be pit stop for refreshment and toilet stop. Then the tour continues to 7pm. After which, you will be brought to a hut within the huge safari where you will be warmed up round the fires with limited free drinks and a lovely home cooked dinner served with dessert before heading back to their office at 8.45pm If you are staying over with them at their beautifully decorated huts, the sleep over package will include activities as mentioned above AND a night drive to your accommodation. There will be another round of 1.5 hour guided tour around the safari the next morning before heading out to a nearby restaurant for breakfast. We were privileged to have Edward as our guide. He managed to bring us up close and personal to many animals and the most important one of all - Lions! 🦁 Before Schotia, we had gone to 4 other nature parks including the famous Kruger Park. Zero lions spotted! Edward is hilarious and very experienced. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ 5 stars for him!